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About killy_4_u

  • Birthday 01/01/1980

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  1. Hello, I was wondering if my 1956 Buick Century 322 Nailhead tiny valves had valve seats adequate for unleaded or would they require a lead substitute fuel additive? Also, any opinions on non-ethanol gas? Thanks,
  2. I went with classic 2-person. It was so much easier that way and I got them done in no time and they work great! The heat is still an issue after a bit of driving and braking and the fade sets in. Is there any way around that without discs?
  3. Alright, I'm finally ready to start bleeding. About the brake light switch, do I need to get that now and install it before the bleed? I'm guessing it's activated by fluid pressure, is that the case? So if I change it after I'll need to bleed again?
  4. I'm wanting to re-pack the bearings on the front drums I bought but can't find the WHEEL SEALS at the regular chain stores. Does any one have any resources for finding these?
  5. Here's something I've found while looking at various drums on ebay. Mine have what look like balancing weights welded to them as in the below photo, while many I find do not. I don't know why they'd be there if they didn't need to be so I'm worried about buying any without them. Is this a valid concern?
  6. Thanks for the tip! I'm already trying to stay OEM in my model year range. You just gave me another reason to.
  7. Thank you! That's awesome because fronts are much easier to find! I just need to remove the hub??? That would solve a lot of problems. I'm definitely looking for OEM. I can tell just by looking at them on ebay that the meat looks almost like 1/2" to 3/4" thick! They're much cheaper than new too. I do have a drum caliper and other drum tools, spring removal tool, adjusting fork, etc. I might have two that are saveable but the other two are definitely not so I'm just going to get all four hopefully from the same car.
  8. So I got my original new master cylinder rebuilt, all new asbestos shoes, springs & hardware, new wheel cylinders, hoses, and the system is bled and ready to go EXCEPT for my drums. They're in horrible shape. All Four. I'm not thinking they're able to be turned. Finding them has been a challenge. I've found some VERY expensive ones, but before spending almost $1,000 on drums, is any one aware of interchangeability from different models or years? I'm only searching 1956 Buick Century but I'm hoping it's not the only model and year to use these. Any help or resources would be much appreciated.
  9. Hi, I recently had my master cylinder / vacuum booster rebuilt by White Post Restorations. I received my unit back clocked 90 degrees in the wrong direction as shown in picture #1. The unit will NOT fit back in the car this way for multiple reasons. Since it took (5) weeks to ship, get rebuilt, and ship back, I did not want to send my unit back for another (5) weeks. So they gave me permission to turn it to the correct position without voiding the warranty. I did so as shown in picture #2. I have not installed the unit yet, but my question is: how do I know I performed the move correctly? The master cylinder is now bolted to the vacuum booster in the correct orientation, but I was surprised to notice that the vacuum inlet and the air filter screw are the only things holding the main piece inside the body of the booster from springing out. Once the cover and all was put back together, the piece is in the body seemingly fine, but I find it difficult to believe the main restraint of the tension are the vacuum inlet and the air filter screw before the cover is placed back on. Am I articulating this in any understandable way, and if so, does this seem correct?
  10. Any way of being able to explain the type of material used on yours besides softer, more aggressive? Is there an actual material or compound I can reference? Such as asbestos, ceramic, etc. There is a place here in my city called "Ott's Friction" that specializes in heavy duty brakes for big cars and big trucks. They mentioned a very super "aggressive" material like you mentioned but someone else told me the "aggressive" types are usually a hard material. not soft when softer is what I've been looking for since people explain asbestos as "softer" not hard.
  11. As previously discussed with others, the consensus from most here was that the old asbestos perform best with drums. If you have any suggestions on a better shoe or lining, I'm totally all ears. I don't WANT asbestos necessarily, I want what will function best. Especially when it comes to heat / fade since I'm keeping all drums where heat & fade is a problem. I'm all about finding something better but most every one has steered me towards asbestos for the best performance on the old drums. I don't care if a pair of shoes cost $100, or even a little more, if they work better to stop my bigger investment, I'll get them.
  12. That's all very in depth! Admittedly, I don't understand all of the science and calculations behind all of that but it's got me thinking. About the foot and MC ratios for instance. I haven't changed anything from when I took my unit out to how it is back in. Is there any pedal adjustment I should consider? Before my MC started acting up it braked really well besides the fade issue going downhill for considerable distances. The pedal didn't go all the way to the floor. Is there really an adjustment for this? To the modern master cylinder argument, I had a '66 Mustang with an upgraded dual circuit MC and one of the rear hoses was 1/2" from my exhaust, melted the hose, and I had zero brakes instantly. I had to e-brake her home. Speaking of which, my Century e-brake doesn't work very well. It kind of works, but on an incline she'll roll slowly. Is this a simple adjustment or do I need to replace parts?
  13. Does anyone have a good source for NOS front shoes or the like? If stock is the way to go for these and there's nothing better, finding them is now the challenge! Rock Auto has the shoes for the Special, but not Century. Aren't they the same? 12.00" x 2.25" or 305mm x 57mm.
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