1929wilbur

Got it apart. Once I put on an Opti-visor, I was able to see two little locking tabs bent over the nut. Once they were moved, the nut was able to thread right off.

I’m trying to get the ElectroLock cable/swivel off of the Delco Remy distributor of my ‘28 Chandler. I want to do away with it and go to an insulated stud through the distributor housing and am having a tough time getting it disconnected. It has a flat-sided stud and a nut inside the Delco. The stud turns. I’d love to get to the inside of the “armored” section to hold the stud so the nut could be dealt with. Any tips?

I sprayed two coats of black Flex-Seal on the top of my Model A top ten years ago as a temporary band-aid, and it’s still acceptable. Eventually, I may get around to replacing the top…

I’m looking for a Delco Remy 813489 distributor cap for my 1928 Chandler. Same unit was also used on the Duesenbergs. Any body got a NOS one for sale or know of a cross reference to another brand number?

Haven’t gotten one yet!

Number one cylinder is in the front. On my 8 cylinder Chandler, the timing mark is located on the flywheel, visible thru a window in the bell housing on the drivers side of the car. If you pull all the spark plugs out and put the car in gear, you’ll be able to move a tire by hand and watch for that mark to get number one at TDC.

That nails it. Thanks! Not threaded, just clamped in place. I had spread the clamp a little with a chisel, but no luck. I’ll put some heat on the inner casting tomorrow and that should get it the shaft to come out.

I have the rocker assemblies off of the engine in order to remove the cage valves and noticed that one of the rocker arms is stiff on it’s shaft. What is the process to take these apart. I was expecting to be able to unthread the end cap and get two rockers out of the assembly. No luck so far. Is it threaded or is it just clamped in position by the assembly mounting bolts?

Thanks for all the recommendations.

The car is located in Southern New Jersey. Excellent tips about cage removal. Thanks. I watched a video on YouTube of a fellow pulling them out with an engine hoist. I cringed at that butal method.

Thanks, Wayne. I’m a T-guy myself and am very familiar with both Joe Bell and J&M. This Buick belongs to a friend of mine. I just learned that American LaFrance fire trucks of this era ran Buick engines and another friend is currently replacing one rod in his fire truck. He was able to get the piston out thru the bottom past the crank.

Interesting that the piston may be able to be removed from the bore through the bottom with the crankshaft in place. Thanks for that! Only two of the jugs show low compression. My go-to juice has always been a mix of ATF and acetone. We may try flooding those two cylinders with it for a while and see what happens. Thanks. Not many rebuilder names have popped up…

Thanks Mark. Is there a source for the special spanner tools (2) needed to remove those cage nuts or is it only a “make it” tool?

Thank you. You were a great help a number of years ago setting me up with a superior alternative to the Schebler on my Royal 8 Chandler.

The two jugs that have low comp are heavily oil-soaked, suggesting stuck/ worn rings.

Here's a shot of the old girl

Wayne. This is not the car that had been discussed elsewhere. It has spent it’s entirety within 20 miles of where it is now, since new.

Most likely a full rebuild. It’s a very nice car and since that engine has no head, doing a partial isn’t really an option.

My buddy needs his Buick 23-45 engine redone. 2 of the cylinders have less than 15 lb of compression. The others are mid-50’s. He’s located in southern NJ. Any suggestions as to a rebuilder who has experience with these motors?

Hey CarbKing, what carb would you suggest be installed in place of the Marvel on a ‘23 Buick Touring. It has the 23-45 6 cylinder engine. Carter BB-1 ? Any special adaptor needed?

Running around in the Jersey Pines today...

1929 Royal 85. This has the same engine as our Model 137. It seems to be exactly the same car only with different model names.

This is our 1928 Model 137. She has the Royal 8 engine. We drive it all the time and usually rack up over a 150 miles each weekend.

No rings...nice! Restorer, what town are located in and what is your place called?

I'm located in southern New Jersey, near Atlantic City. This is a car that I got a few months ago which seems to have last been on the road in the early 40's and messed with in the 70's. After dropping the pan to clean out any sludge, I took a compression test and tried to get her to run. The one jug that had only 5 lbs of compression was back puffing out the intake pretty bad, so it ran like crap. The engine is now out and totally apart. Crank end-play was fairly poor and a few of the rod big-end bearings are shot. It needs some serious lovin' by a knowledgable machinist/ rebuilder, given the fact that parts for these Chandler engine are pretty much non-existent.