chistech

This is a great thread as I just purchased on eBay a ‘23 Ford T huckster truck plastic kit in 1/25th scale by AMT. When I was a young teenager I restored a ‘23 Martin Parry bodied canvas side T that my dad bought to advertise the family business. I will be modifying this kit to make it more like what our truck was like and will be making up side curtains with the same artwork the original truck had. It will serve duty on my G scale railroad and sit outside of the Brito’s Meats and Provisions building (our family USDA slaughterhouse) that will be on the layout. When I found the kit on eBay one of my initial thoughts was to do a build thread here because there have been other excellent model threads plus I am recreating a model of an actual antique vehicle. I need to pickup some building supplies for the kit but will be starting on it soon. I might actually build the body out of wood rather than use the supplied plastic body. Not sure yet.

Here’s a link for the small fitting: https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/366-02-02.html?gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIya2IsK6cggMVxWByCh3j0QENEAQYBCABEgKZLPD_BwE I believe this is the other fitting.

Well today I did a more thorough digging through my spare parts. Conrad’s roadster is missing both the drivers and passenger side hood latching brackets. I had told him I thought I had a pair but a couple of quick looks through my spares and nothing. Tonight I opened some boxes I had taped shut that had taillight housings, lenses, and associated parts. Lo and behold in that box were the parts Conrad needed. I also found an original oil filter bracket that needs a little work but not much. Not sure if Conrad will want it also.

It’s a 5 footer. The 316 SS was a little difficult to weld as I haven’t tigged SS in a while. It will never rust again though.

After cutting all the pieces to length, I measured out the amount of the pie shaped piece i would have to cutout of the bottom of the tube to taper it down to one inch. With that done, using other split pieces of SS tubing to help squeeze the tube together to close the cutout are. Once i was satisfied with the edges of the cut meeting, I used a hose clamp to but the edges tightly together. The seam then got tig welded. Elbow got welded to the main tube with both the elbow and front down tube in their respective flanges then the front down tube got tacked to main tube. Then everything got welded together. I couldn’t find any professional welder willing to weld the assembly together for less than $650 so I welded it up myself. While it’s not as pretty as a professional would have done, it is watertight and leakproof. Had my neighbor, the polisher, give it his touch which makes it look like the nickel it once was. The car is an unrestored driver and the owner is more concerned with functionality than cosmetics. I can tell you it looks way better than the rotted, JB Weld patched pipe that was sent to me.

Often the lip of the ball gets stuck on one of the four legs and balls of the joint itself. This usually happens when the four legs are at 12-3-6, and 9 o'clock. Make sure the trans is in neutral and one rear wheel off the ground. Rotate the elevated wheel some to turn the driveshaft and then try getting the ball back. If the frame is supported and the rear axle is down, the lip of the ball is raised enough to catch on the u-joint. By your description, I suspect that is what is happening. I always slide the ball back with all the weight on the axles then raise the car.

Look at northfield rubber's website. They make running board mats but they are urethane I believe. The recommend an expensive two part glue that I used to glue my mats down to the studded pans that bolt them down to the running boards. The glue has held up extremely well with no delamination. You would have to ask or do some research to see if the glue they recommend will work with rubber.

That's something I thought of but not directly. What I meant by that was I purchased vapor proof lighting so the lights wouldn't possibly ignite the paint fumes but I never thought of an overall fire suppression system. I imaging because it's portable it doesn't fall into a lot of rules but I would also imaging using it indoors that insurance might not pay if there was a fire? Good question still. I suppose if it did catch on fire you could ride it for a while like a hot air balloon!

Just saw this post after so many years. My PVC frame holds the booth up very adequately but the four corners are also roped off beams in my garage. If the four corners have some support, mainly to keep from twisting the booth, the PVC works great. We set it just a week ago in a garage where at first we couldn't rope off the front end, just the end with the opening. We ended up putting up a 2x4x12' on the front end at each corner out about 2' from the booth. We lagged the 2x4's vertically into a wood dock that was along the front of the booth and tied off to them, holding up the front nicely. If you want to turn the blower off you need to tie up the four corners along with using the PVC frame. I believe without the frame the sewn loops at the corners would most likely rip off the booth.

The shock valving is adjustable with the lever on the top. In one position there will be little to no resistance. This would be the "soft" position on the dash mounted handle. If you move the handle to firm it changes the valving to get more resistance. The still isn't a lot of resistance in the old shocks.

Yes, it’s an inner and outer race with a separate captured ball bearing. Three pieces in total.

I’ll have to check the numbers. I believe it might be the same as chevy. Got back from Hershey and been on the road servicing my packaging customers. I haven’t had enough time to do any research or to go looking through my parts as I have to dig all my boxes out to look through them. I will try and get some answers to you by the end of the week. Sorry.

I did forget to mention one of the best things to happen during the week. About 4-6 weeks before Hershey, I answered a post where someone was looking to have something brought to Hershey from MA. I contacted the individual, learned he was in the Navy and was hoping to get some parts for his project which with him often deployed, was hard for him to do. I was able to pick up the parts from the person who had them as my work has me traveling all over New England. Once I had picked them up, I hauled them to Hershey and Ken picked them up. He arrived with his son, was a great individual to meet and speak with. He is a commander on the USS Tennessee. He offered to pay me or buy me lunch for picking up the parts but I refused and simply thanked him for his service to the country. My friend with me and my friends in the immediate booth next to me all shook his hand and thanked him also. He was a nice gentleman to meet and his young son already has the itch to restore cars. Looks like he's a great dad too!

Trimacar and myself discussed the situation off the forums and all is good. I was just a misunderstanding between our train of thoughts that had us going in different directions, aggravating us both at the time.

This thread was about this year’s show experience and while I gave my experience i didn’t give names or exact details. While you chose to reply, add names, and incorrect details in the forums rather than PM me, I’ve replied to you with the actual details via PM.

I’ve been to Hershey many times, to show my car, as a parts buyer for my own cars, and cars I’ve done for others. Through the years I’ve gotten a good grasp on the value of the car parts I deal with and parts in general. I am always willing to pay a fair price for an item. This year was the first year I was a vendor also. Here’s my own observations and opinions of this past year: While some of it is against the rules, the bikes, golf carts, and scooters didn’t bother me at all and I realize that the age of the average attendee is up there. Many have mobility issues including myself as this year I developed tibular tendonitis which is extremely painful for me to walk at times. This year was the first that I didn’t walk around. If the rules are strictly enforced on the bikes and carts, you can kiss at least half of the spectator/buyers away. I find it funny that people are complaining about how there’s not as many vendors and then complain about the buyers getting around the show. The two run hand in hand and I’m sure it’s a driving force for the “lack” of enforcement. Less buyers showing up, less vendors will show up and go to the internet. Another contributing factor is society is very different these days and even the older generations are adapting. Yes, you have people who will always follow the rules and you can expect those with mobility issues to stop coming because of that and the rules. You then have others who no longer care about the rules, the older ones included. If you try and enforce them, they’ll stop coming all together, then start using the internet even more along with ebay to get what they want. The real issues come down to the people attending the show and their individual personalities. I understand there was almost a fist fight in the chocolate field this year! As a vendor, I brought many parts from fair to NOS in OEM boxes. I met lots of nice people and plenty, yes plenty of jerks. The people from foreign countries were hands down the nicest and tried their hardest to speak English rather than expecting me to speak their language. I had many items priced at pennies on the dollar at an extreme deal at what I was asking and many still tried counter offering at half of my pricing. Now I know many will say that’s how it works but many took it to the extreme with some even lying about a part I had and that they knew nothing about (of course they low ball offered on my price) yet when we looked it up on the internet, they couldn’t resist explaining that parts actual use and that two were needed, with their “expertise “. I witnessed another buyer stop at a friends booth and start chastising him that the part he had on his table had been “screwed with” (his words) and wasn’t original. Asking price was $45 dollars and about an hour later that part was sold for $45! He was just a jerk showing off his “expertise “ with his giant bravado. Another guy leaving the lot at the end of the day who had all kinds of room to maneuver his truck, instead came too close to a vendor booth running over a set of wheels and damaging one. That driver then got out of his truck and denied damaging the wheel after 50 people witnessed it. Again a jerk. On the show fields I spoke with a couple men about interior work and a convertible roof. While one guy was pleasant and informative, the other again offered up his knowledge with extreme bravado even admitting he was being arrogant. When I told him what I was looking for he basically insisted it couldn’t be done so I explained I had already done it. He continued to insist that it had to be done his way so I then showed him photos of what I had done and that it could in fact be done the way I mentioned. He basically left the conversation walking away from that point and i realized that I’ve met many like him and have even blocked others like him that post on this forum. I believe he figured he was talking to someone with half a brain who had never done anything like we were discussing and that he was special. Conclusion: As a vendor, selling many items for $2 to $20 average, I had a great show in sales. The buyers, some could have just been better people. As a show spectator looking for some information, it could have gone a LOT better. Many things in this world go through cycles and I doubt Hershey will ever be the size and splendor it once was. As things just change and for the show to continue it will need to adapt. It starts with the people and unfortunately people are the hardest things to change. Buildings can be built, rivers can be spanned, tunnels can be dug. All of that is easier than changing how society thinks, believes, and behaves.

I believe it is all based first on what the car in question actually is. Is it an average, highly produced vehicle, or is it a low production one, etc. If a car is close to running or roadworthy, i would simply get it up and running trying to be as correct as possible. If you’re starting with a basket case, then there is multiple ways to go. My ‘31 chevy special sedan and my 32 Oldsmobile were both complete basket cases. When I bought the chevy the frame was restored and it came with the following, all new or restored, tires, LB full interior kit, every piece of chrome redone, and most small were done to new. The way to finish the car was obvious based on what I had. It was restored back to new with an extremely nice but not overdone paint job. My Olds had some pieces like the hubcaps, fender lights, and fender spears rechromed when I bought it but everything else would need to be redone. The olds is extremely rare and little is truthfully known about them. I got lots of advice on how I should restore my car and the majority was suggesting I should hot rod it! With the car’s rarity and with it being mostly complete with matching numbers, I quickly threw out the idea of anything but a as close to OEM restoration. So both my cars are restored to OEM new condition. The olds has won most every award I can win including the R.E. Olds AACA National Award. So there is a lot in common condition wise between the two but the most common is they’re both cars. Cars are meant to be driven and that is what I do. While my wife is nervous when we’re out in the olds, it because of the hours I put into the restoration. While I was actively showing it in the AACA, I didn’t drive it much but do now. I taught my neighbor to drive the Chevy so we go out driving with our wife’s in my two cars so they get used. The chevy was 13-14 months to complete and the Olds was three years. All things that need doing should be done ina timely fashion and I never put a project on the back burner once i start. My 83 M1009 blazer, while it did get a large makeover, it didn’t get a full, nut and bolt restoration like the other two. Again, based on what I started with and what my goals were is how I went about restoring it.

The first thing I did was using a piece of steel angle to make up a jig to weld up the new pipe. 4-5/16” holes and some bolts would be all I needed. Measured the flanges with my mic and bored the bolt holes for each flange. The holes in each flange for the pipe itself were both off center of the bolt holes by .012. One hole was bored 1” with a drill and opened up to the 1.125 with a small fly cutter. The other1” hole fits the current elbow. The upper pipe was measured for the front down pipe and drill first. Then the hole was enlarged again with the fly cutter. The 1” elbow is hydro-formed and it designated as a long tangent type. This means that the length to each end of the radius is slightly extended which makes for easier welding. Unfortunately, the length still wasn’t long enough so I trimmed a piece off one end that will get welded to the other. The 1 3/8” top pipe will need a long pie piece cut out of the bottom, then the pipe curled in until the edges are butted so it can be welded up. This is where I and so far. if anyone knows of someone who could radius bend 316 1.125 SS tubing please let me know. I don’t believe they smaller 1” elbow will make a difference in cooling but esthetically, the original diameter would be best.

Had a customer send me in his rotted and leaking 20 Buick water pipe. It had been patched numerous times many years back when the metal was still thick enough to weld and most recently with our favorite, JB weld. My plan was to make it out of 316 SS and tig weld it all together, then polish it up as the original was nickeled. The elbow and front down pipe are 1.125 diameter and the main pipe is right at 1.3125 which tapered to the elbow diameter. I was able to order a 24” piece of 1 3/8” for the top pipe and a piece of 1.125 for the front down pipe. I was not able to get an elbow in 1.125 so for now, I ordered a 1.00. I would like to find someone who could cleanly radius bend some 1.125 for me but as of now, I’ve had no luck. Some .250 x 2” flat stock was bought to fabricate the flanges.

While not a car show, but another hobby of my, RC scale aircraft. I was at a show and a fellow member of my RC club showed up with his elderly dad, Bud, he himself an avid RC plane builder and a WWII veteran. Among the line of aircraft was a Storch which was the WWII German version of the US piper cub or L19 Cessna bird dog. While Bud was looking intensely at the very well done Storch, another elderly gentleman walked over and asked Bud if he knew what aircraft it was. When Bud said he did, the gentleman then asked if he had ever seen one. When Buds reply was yes, the next question was where. When Bud told the gentleman where he saw it, the gentleman then said that’s where he had seen one. The next question was when. It turned out both Bud and this gentleman were in the same place at the very same time, while their regiments were different, they ended moving through Europe on the very same campaigns till the end of the war! Both, miraculously managed to make it home safely. To listen to the two men reminiscing about such a horrific time, watching them hug each other and start to cry, was just an incredible thing for me to experience. There’s no real way to explain the emotions I felt and I’m normally not a very emotional person. It was just incredible.

We owned a 23 T Martin Parry bodied depot hack and that truck was great to drive with enough legroom for my 6’1” , 230# frame. One would think the depot hack were designed with getting in and out along with larger size men. I enjoyed driving that truck and wish we still had it.

Didn’t you post this on Facebook with the coil arcing? So it was a negative ground issue it seems.

Gene was a wonderful gentleman. He and I talked many times while I was restoring my 32 Olds and our cars were virtually side by side at my first Junior showing at Hershey. He had made up some excellent reproductions of specific 32 olds parts like the “high compression “ information plate on the engine head, the label on the Remo decarbonizer fluid can, and the small red 32 olds optional equipment catalog. I purchased all those items from him. Rest in peace my friend.

There are perfect examples of the RHSC right in these comments. Here’s some examples. 1. If two auto makers or marquees came out with the same thing in the same year say even one hour apart, the first one to come out with it is still the first no matter how you want to slant it in your favor. Races are won in the hundreds of seconds. The Corvair guys have been doing this for years. 2. The HUD is a perfect example as olds had in their pace car first but Nissan was first in installing it in a production car. Two different firsts. Olds only claimed the first example , not the second. 3. If olds claimed it as a first and because they were part of GM, saying that they really can’t be the first because they’re all one group that would mean the whole GM family couldn’t singularly claim anything they came out with as a first. They marquees all worked independently in R&D in most cases and collaborated on few. It was the GM brass that did the slashing and mashing. 4. Based on my ownership of my 32 Oldsmobile, which has, undisputedly, the first production automatic choke, it never gets credited to olds. I’ve had many people with The large classic marquees see my automatic choke on my 32 and the immediately say, “I didn’t know that the Olds got the automatic choke from “Packard, Pierce Arrow, Cadillac, etc” (just enter any one) as I’ve heard it from owners of all those brands when in fact those brands didn’t get the automatic choke until 34! My own reasoning (based on research and what I’ve read) for the corporate hate from GM on Olds is they most likely purchased Olds to remove a competitor from their market as this is how business works. It’s easy to assume that GM figured Ransom would take his money and run but he instead, founded another competitor in REO which produced very nice higher end cars that were in many cases better than the top line Buicks and even possibly the Cadillac. (Okay,I probably just started more arguments!) So I believe this is where a majority of the corporate hate come into play. Pontiac garnered its own corporate hate because it was started as a companion brand and it ended up overtaking the Oakland in popularity and sales. That’s another corporate NoNo as you know that some in the GM brass had their Oakland love get shattered. If you read some of the corporate meeting minutes back in the early thirties you’d understand my post even more. GM almost hoped Olds would fall flat on its face but instead it developed a lot and was GMs 1st Guinea pig with Pontiac second. Oldsmobile was in most cases, GM worse producer so if something new failed, better to fail on an Olds and not any of the others. But then you have the example of the F88 that was known to be a much better car than the Corvette. They knew it wouldn’t fall on its face but in fact, due the exact opposite so the GM brass squashed it. If it wasn’t for Harley Earl and E L Cord, there wouldn’t be one example left.

So people know, I didn’t cherry pick the list nor did it come from a Oldsmobile biased website. Here is the link where I found that list. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oldsmobile