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Posts posted by m-mman
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Very confusing, the names changed over time and were coined by the manufacturer with no industry standard.
During these years a sedan had a post or frame around the door glass.
Two door, Tudor, coupe were equivalent.
If there is no frames around the glass and no post from the front to rear then the word is “hardtop”.
2 door hardtop, 4 door hardtop, sport coupe and sport sedan.- 1
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2 hours ago, Jim Skelly said:
Lots of rusted out junk in the Detroit area have asking prices much higher
2 hours ago, DavidinCA said:I think the location is doing it no favors since a quick search shows it at least 2 hrs from either Missoula or Coeur d’Alene
Location….location….location…If the seller wants to make a deal, he will need to “subsidize the shipping” (or just the trip to see it) by making the price very attractive.
Aero cars just aren’t popular enough to overcome the geographical handicap.
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The #1 most important thing to do when dealing with ANY collectible (cars, books, coins, jewelry…..) is correctly identifying exactly what the item is.
Not what you THINK it is, not what you want it to be, but rather what every expert in that area of collecting agrees with what it is. Only then can value begin to be estimated.
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An 8 cylinder bottom line business coupe. Interesting, I wonder who ordered this.
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5 hours ago, DrumBob said:
In my world of musical instrument sales, well kept items seem to only sell right now if they are priced right, which means below market value. Otherwise, gear just sits unsold
It’s true in cars too.
Many sellers either have no understanding of business, or there are too many emotions involved in the process. -
The large 57 Ford four door sedan was called a “Town Sedan”.
The four door hardtop was called a “Town Victoria”.
Then mix that with the Facebook inability to post accurate descriptions in the title and you end up with…..57 Ford town car. As in late model Lincoln.- 3
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Chevrolet was alone offering a sedan delivery 49-51. Ford had the 2 door wood wagons and they wouldn’t be appropriate for the rigors of heavy commercial use.
Ford came back with a SD for 1952 when they introduced their all steel wagon. Ford (the wagon master) built both two and four door wagons so their SD had the longer two door doors.
Chevrolet only had a four door wagon such that their SD used the short door. (Up through 1954). Considering the practical utilitarian reason for having a SD I think that having a longer door would be advantageous for entry-exit and loading.
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1 hour ago, Fossil said:
Did they make a factory dual four barrel 390? Can’t remember ever coming across one.
For 1962-63 Thunderbird offered an optional 390 with three 2 barrel carburetors. Aluminum manifold. When equipped this engine the code in the serial number changed from the standard Z to an M. The engine was available in all body styles. Factory roadsters with the M engine get the most attention (and money). The rarest are the vinyl top Landau with the M engine.
More than just a manifold swap factory M engines have different lifters and transmissions. The valve body shifts slightly differently from the 4 barrel engine.
I knew a guy who was an expert on these cars. He said you could recognize a M car across the parking lot because it sat slightly higher in the front due to the weight differences between the iron and aluminum manifolds.
Ford put 2 four barrels on the 427 engines but never on the 390 size.
The original aluminum air cleaner is quite valuable and I think that they have made modern versions for a 4 barrel car.
If this car had tri- power I’m sure the seller would have mentioned it.- 2
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Wow, that’s good that there’s lots of patina.
The last few times I bought a car I got it home and was disappointed because there wasn’t nearly as much patina as the seller described. ☹️
I don’t know which is worse, going through a new car and discovering that it’s missing critical parts, or that there just isn’t much patina. 🤔
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This is a rare car, but there is so much work to be done (redone?) coupled with all the problems of moving a “kit” that I think the price needs to come down significantly.
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He took the old joke (urban myth) and put it into a current ad.
“Man dies and his will directs his wife to sell his valuable car and give the money to his mistress”.
“I know the guy who bought the valuable car for just $10! “
We have all heard it for decades. Nothing new here. -
20 hours ago, rocketraider said:
I do kinda like that 56 Chevy two-door wagon in the top picture
Magic Muffler. A chain of shops in the LA area. They had a fleet of 56 Chevrolet wagons all painted the same way
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1 hour ago, DrumBob said:
OK, Ford experts. Is that exterior color the correct shade of pink for that car?
Yes it is. Tropical Rose. Yes it is/was intense. Yes it is the exact shade of Pepto Bismo.
For 1955, Ford also offered Regency Purple. It too is an intense shade. Not lilac, not violet but a purple.
It was the 1950s and the world had been filled with dull colors since the crash of 1929. Black, gray, dull green, dull blue, maybe a brown or two.
Virtually every manufacturer offered some Easter egg colors. Some more than others (56 Lincoln had the most).
The thing was that they were VERY FASHIONABLE. They attracted people who wanted to stand out and wanted the latest.
People who buy the latest also trade frequently. The Easter egg cars were typically traded back in within 1-3 years. Since they were then not the latest styles and they stood out, they did not appeal to used car buyers. They were hard to sell and depreciated quickly.
Dealers in the monied parts of town sent them to auction and they ended up in the poor areas where people would “buy here - pay here”. They couldn’t afford the car but they dreamed that they too were fashionable. They couldn’t afford maintenance they abused the cars and they were junked early. Survival was very low.
The few Easter egg cars that stayed with people who did maintain them might actually like the CAR, but the COLORS would quickly become tiresome. Their friends and neighbors might even object to having it in the neighborhood. Finding Easter egg cars that were repainted single tone white was common. Connoisseurs always check the data plates to see what was original.
The low survival of an original or mostly original Easter egg car is what makes this example special. It wasn’t for everyone when it was new and it certainly isn’t for everyone today but for true connoisseurs of genuine 50s flashy cars it is a desirable artifact.
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1 hour ago, deac said:
I saw that happening at the last Barrett Jackson auction in Scottsdale
There are some dealers who are well known on this board who buy at auctions. Nothing wrong with that. They have to get their inventory from somewhere.
If you were at the auction and had the cash, you could buy too.
But legitimate dealers (not flippers) will do things to the car that add value then take excellent photos (not snapshots) and invest time into marketing. A legitimate dealer will protect the car until it is sold and will negotiate a sale for a fair price. And they expose themselves to fraud, warranty and possible buy back issues.
A flipper wants cash ASAP, will put little to no effort into improving the car, and if they can’t get their (always exorbitant) price rather than negotiating, they move it outside, cover it up until someone will pay what THEY have decided that it is worth. However long it takes.
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1 hour ago, TerryB said:
Would the red lights be an indication of a car used in funeral processions?
No. The official color for a funeral is purple.
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On 3/19/2024 at 12:20 AM, Ozstatman said:
That rear fender sweep starts behind the door on the the car in question The actual '57 rear fender sweep starts in the door of the 57 itself. But what do I know
What you didn’t know is that on a 1957-59 Ford the doors on the retractable Skyliner are SHORTER than on the other Fairlane class 2 door models.
Skyliner retractables have unique doors, quarter panels and moldings!but the firewall forward is the same.
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According to the Marti report the original buyer walked out on the deal.
The “order type” is RETAIL. This denotes a car that was specially ordered by a customer. If the car was ordered by the dealer to sit on the lot and await a customer the Order Type is STOCK.
So the order was sent to Ford November 13, 1969.
The body was welded (bucked) November 25, actually built November 25 (typo in the Marti)Released from the plant November 25
But then it sat on the lot and wasn’t actually sold until March 5, 1970 about 4 months later.
This typically indicates that whoever ordered the car refused delivery.
It then sits on the lot waiting for someone else to take it home.
The colors and equipment weren’t strange so it’s unlikely that the dealer was too worried about having it sit around. But the dealer was paying flooring charges during that time.
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7 hours ago, Fossil said:
Sure glad I don't have to work on that distributor. I'd want a distributor machine to set that one up in.
Y-block distributors aren’t that difficult to maintain. However replacing the plug wires is a 2+ hour job!
They run behind the block and under the exhaust manifolds. They are secured by 2 retainers on each side and use unique grommets to hold them. (Fortunately the grommets have been reproduced).- 3
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4 hours ago, JamesR said:
Do the seat backs of the two rearward seats fold forward? Or do you have to take the whole seat out to get hauling space in the back?
Nothing folds if you want space, get out the tools. I believe that the wider rear seat can be bolted up front.
A consistent problem with station wagons (all years and makes) is the darn spare tire. 😠
Some makes and years attached it to the tailgate. In 1941 I believe that Plymouth bolted it to the back of the front seat on the driver’s side.
By the fifties all steel wagons got their own floor stampings and could hide them below the rear floor.
But during the wood construction years wagons were considered “commercial vehicles” and their specifications were found in the truck literature. To understand them, look at them like you would a pickup truck.
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18 minutes ago, StillOutThere said:
He told me IN NO UNCERTAIN terms that I had NO IDEA what the ____ I was talking about
The seller is obviously not a car person
Its a straight clean car for $2500.
Does it really matter what the seller calls it?All he wants to do is rehome it, not discuss inane details about it with someone who isn’t going to buy it.
If it weren’t an 8 hour drive, I would have my tow truck and cash in is driveway. -
1 hour ago, JamesR said:
I know they had I-6 engines before Ford did.
Actually Ford’s first 6 was the Model K in 1906……
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Ok, it has been a while but I made some changes and have updates to report.
When I full fielded the generator (grounding the field wire) I got 8.55 to 8.63 Volts and 50 amps. So the generator should be Ok.
Bloo theorized that since I was getting such good numbers with a full field test, then perhaps the problem is with the ground and that I should run a solid connection between the generator and the regulator. Good thought, makes sense.
I did, then the rains came (in CA) and life happened, so I didnt get back to it for a while.
With a recent clear day and twilight hours (so I would use my headlights) I took it 30+ minutes to dinner and 30 minutes back. Ran up there just fine. Upon return after 25 minutes of driving, the OD quit. I have come to learn that this means that it is not charging. (Note: the charge light remains off) We were only 10 minutes from home so there was no problem making it back.
In the garage I checked again and I was getting only 6.55 volts total at about 2000 RPM. I full fielded it again and saw the same 6.55 - 6.56 volts.
I had 6.46 volts at idle. Headlights on I was getting 6.24 volts then switching them off I saw 6.13 volts. (Again this was after 30-40 minutes of operation)
Again I am thinking that for WHATEVER REASON the system is not able to put out enough VOLTAGE to overcome the electrical demands and charge the battery.
The charge light never came on (it is working) which implies that there are AMPS flowing.
In testing and working with it, it seems to provide the higher necessary VOLTAGE when it is cold. (Starting in the morning) and the low/no charge situation happens after it has been driven for a while.
I like the 6 volt system, and l like originality but this is frustrating.
Hudson changed their charging system in 1951. PERHAPS acquiring parts and making it a later design would work?
I do not like when people change to (6V) alternators, but this thing is putting those ideas in my head. <arrrgggg>
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Wow, it’s a four door hardtop!
A shiny car for $2500? I understand why the seller might be tired with idiots.
In this situation you show up with cash, verify the title documents and are fully prepared to move it to your house.
If you ask any questions or have to “think about it” you need another hobby, cars aren’t for you.- 3
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1 hour ago, DrumBob said:4 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:
A pox on the guy who rewired that whole car using red wires. AND a 12-volt conversion? Yeah, no thanks.
I get it, but the car looks incredible. Gorgeous. I even like the two-tone green
Drum Bob, since you have limited experience with restored (fixed up?) cars what sets off alarms for Matt are modifications and poor quality repairs.
If a car is just as it was built (or restored as it was built) then it can be diagnosed and repaired when it breaks. (And they ALL break eventually).
This car is shiny and looks nice BUT the 12 volt and the all red wires show that short cuts were taken. Short cuts that will fail when you can least tolerate them.
Examples - when you consistently operate a 6v starter on 12v it slams the starter drive into the flywheel. This means that the starter drive (Bendix) will break. 12v will overheat the armature and it will melt solder and short out. Maybe not today but when you least expect it.
It has an alternator (ok) but how was it wired? A “one wire” alternator is not a simple modification but a cop out. “One wire” alternators are made for stationary applications that run at a constant speed. They can have problems charging until they are energized.So is it actually charging? Who would know? The seller-builder was lazy and didn’t connect the amp gauge (!).
So after you buy it, the battery acts like it’s not being charged. So, get out your testing equipment and start checking wires. Wait! All the wires are red???!!! Now how do you trace a circuit? It can be done of course but it is added time and headaches because the seller-builder was too lazy to buy 5-7 different color spools of wire.
The seller-builder obviously built it for reliable touring (which is great) but most likely he has put miles on it and now things have wear on them and they are going to break down for the next owner just like any used car.
And the first step in repair is figuring out what the previous owner-builder did. BTW owner-builders NEVER create documentation or even notes about what they did.
This past weekend I spent 2 hours figuring out why there was no brake lights on a 51 Kaiser. It was changed 12volts, homemade wires that were spliced and changed colors as they wound through the harness!
it also had power steering added and a power booster and dual master cylinder was fitted (jammed) between the frame rails.
Again 2 hours to eventually track the brake light wires that were removed and stuffed into the inner fender. A 5 minute job that took 2 hours because of poor quality work.
This is why serious car people much prefer untouched unmodified original cars. They are worlds easier to repair.
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1928 Buick $5000 (Bakersfield CA) bargain? Or scam? NOT MINE
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
This is either a heck of a deal, or a scam. Most scammers don’t use unrestored cars however.
Not Mine.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/345222151342946/?mibextid=HHaHfI