m-mman
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Posts posted by m-mman
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17 hours ago, JamesR said:
Hope it had a title at that price
Knowing how to create a title for a vehicle that is lacking one, is a necessary car collector skill as much as being able to do mechanical or other repairs.
In some situations it may not be worth the effort, but in some situations the rust or mechanical repairs needed may not be worth the effort either. -
1 hour ago, Larry Schramm said:
Are you sure that it is not South American? Some of those vehicles are fairly ornate.
South American and Japan are typically much longer.
Europe has narrow twisty streets.-
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Absolutely European.
Created from an imported sedan using local labor and materials (cost effective and less taxes)Rear windows (limousine style hearse)
Roof rack - for flowers.
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17 minutes ago, Dave Wells said:
Is this a standard feature or something the owner rigged up?
1958 Edsel teletouch is an electrical motor control for the automatic transmission.
It’s, electrical, it’s gonna break. You are parkedIf you want to use the car you rig up something to manually move the arm on the transmission.
Typically people cut holes in the floor and bolted in some cheap parts house shifter.
Adapting a thick cable and a knob would take more home engineering but would look better in the end.
Nothing about it is factory.
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1 hour ago, Fossil said:
The owner stated that the transmission will be repaired if someone is seriously interested
This means that if I plan to keep it, I’ll spend some money and fix it correctly. If you agree to buy it, then I’ll tinker with it and it might function for a while but WTH, you already bought it, so it’s your problem.
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25 minutes ago, Jim Skelly said:
Verdoro Green was the name of a Pontiac color.
Notice that it is a Canadian assembled car.
Amazingly the GM report includes the name of the original buyer!
I have heard that the Marti reports data base does have the name of the buyer but Kevin will not reveal them related to privacy concerns. -
7 hours ago, B Jake Moran said:
I am a “meh” fan of these 1966’s. Their not bad but the 63 Marauder with a 390 would be my next Marauder choice.
My 66 Park Lane. Convertibles were never identified as Marauder but the engine was.
(sorry the photos were taken left handed and I can’t turn them over on my phone)
FYI iPhones ARE right handed when it comes to pictures. 😕
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13 hours ago, TampaRiv said:
My wife has asked: "How many cars can you have??". I tell her: "I checked, and there isn't a limit!".
Don’t tell her but based on available parking-storage space most car people are at 110% of what they have room for. 😁
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20 minutes ago, rocketraider said:
Where are the Marauder scripts
Well, the air cleaner……but they were not spotlighted in 1966.
Mercury had a strange relationship with the word Marauder. Starting in 58 it described the rare 6 barrel engine. Then it popped up to describe many other things.
After 1963 1/2 it was used to refer to the “fastback” roof. Remember Mercury offered the breezeway window and the “standard” roofline. (Which was the same as Ford) To make something special out of the shared roofline the applied the Marauder name. Remember in 63-64 there were both 2 and 4 door versions of each roof.
By 1965 the 2 door breezeway was gone (along with the 4 door hardtop breezeway) but the text Marauder remained on the 4 door hardtop.
Which by then meant nothing in the big scheme of things. It appeared on the air cleaner because… why not. Mercury needed all the imaging that it could get.
The engines were all hydraulic lifter FE motors 390s, 410 & 428 but they were not any high performance cobra jet motors, just torque motors that could pull a very high gear axle ratio to decrease engine noise.
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Always gotta laugh at DIY engineering. That tiny air cleaner has probably 50% less surface area than the filter in the stock air cleaner.
Nothing like adding performace by restricting air flow. . . . But what the heck, it's a 2 barrel and it certainly LOOKS like it will go faster.
That's all that maters.
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From the 1969 Cadillac color & upholstery book
Difficult to photograph
Sometimes called "hair cell" texture. Notice that the texture is not consistent across the entire seating area. In some places it is smooth
Interestingly enough Mercury used a similar pattern on their bucket seat VINYL in 1964.
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The numbers you have listed do not seem to be correct.
1956 Mercury built in St Louis Missouri sequence #11,098
You said body BU 54A - Two possibilities BU 58A Montclair 4 door sedan OR BU 64A Montclair 2 door hardtop
Color 272 - Grove Green Classic white Grove Green flo-tone
You said interior code 470 - All 56 Mercury interiors are in the 600 series. Code #670 is white vinyl and black nylon
Date 22F June 22, 1956
31 = production number. Either daily rotation or number sent to particular sales territory.
Can you post a picture of the data plate?
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You asked specifically about the starter.
Running 12 volts to a 6v starter spins it faster and harder and the first thing to break is the starter drive (Bendix) because it is being slammed into the flywheel.
You replace that, and then the extra current (aka heat) begins to melt to solder in the armature. When this happens it is game over.
The Voltage is "baked into" the car. ALL bulbs, ALL wires, ALL gauges, ALL electrical components. People think that changing the voltage (and polarity?) is a simple "upgrade". Nope, to do so is a tremendous amount of parts and effort. And despite what some suppliers say, nothing about wiring is painless.
You (and your parts house) may not be fluent in 6 volt, but take it from all the experienced folks on this board, FIXING your small 6 volt issues is WAYYYYYYyyyyyy EASIER than converting to 12 volts.
And those stories you hear and YouTube videos about how people "upgraded" by simply putting a 12 volt battery under the hood and adding a few resistors? Well, they never keep their upgraded car very long. They either pass the headache on to someone else, or part by part, bit by bit, they invest more time and energy than it ever would have taken to repair the 6 volt system.
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23 hours ago, hot57rambler said:
They are the correct mounts and the old ones were really bad. After the job was done I had a vibration that wasn't there before. It turned out the new mounts now have the engine contacting the floorpan/firewall where the automatic transmission passes through
Those two statements are contradictory.
The correct mounts never allow the drive train to contact the body.Wrong application? Generic mounts?
bent cross member on your car?
Something is not correct. There should be no contact.
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Exactly! And then when I look (and measure) I see the part is not horrible and not new, the adjective becomes “marginal” and I am back deciding whether I should just make it new.
The constant conundrum of car collecting. 🤓
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21 hours ago, Oldtech said:
Replace the rod shells. even if the mains aren't .
2 hours ago, human-potato_hybrid said:What's the reason to replace the rod bearings specifically
THIS is the edge of the rabbit hole in engine rebuilding!
This is why you “fall into” doing everything when you just wanted to do a ring and valve job.
You need to decide - are you going to repair it or just clean it?
Replace bearings just because?
Replace bearings without measuring the crank?Replacing rods and not the mains?
FYI these situations is what plastiguage was made for.
The natural tendency of course is to do everything. But that’s expensive. I understand.
At the start of my projects I make the choice about what I plan to repair or replace. Then those items that I am not going to touch, or not going to rebuild or plan to reuse….. I don’t open up, I don’t look at, I don’t even clean up. Because if it’s good enough that I am not gonna spend money on then it’s good enough to use as is.
Well of course I can’t do that. Of course I HAVE to open it up and of course it needs repairs and rebuilding.
Then, I spend the money and the costs go up.
So, if you have decided to not correctly repair or replace, then you should be confident enough to reuse it without any further examination.
How far down the rabbit hole are you willing to go?
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Mercurys are neat cars but they are not a Mustang or a Chevrolet.
Crowds do not flock to them for restoration or ownership. There is the International Mercury Owners Association and probably a group on Facebook, but opportunities for linking up with other enthusiasts and parts is not going to be vast. The only reproduced parts are those that are shared with Fords.
Certainly this board will provide excellent general information and knowledge's from people who have FoMoCo experience but Mercury experts are a much smaller group.
You used the word “project car” if it needs substantial work and is missing parts and you don’t associate headaches as a normal part of car restoration, then you need to have your eyes wide open before you go in.
This is from someone who had a 1957 Turnpike Cruiser and currently has a 64 Park Lane cv 66 Park Lane cv.
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On 3/29/2024 at 11:32 AM, B Jake Moran said:
While I appreciate a nut and bolt restoration as much as the next guy, these hinges are fine and only need cleaned and repainted, saving us $100.00 or so for new hinges and associated parts.
As an FYI the hinges are painted a strange color. The spring is semigloss black but the hinge itself is zinc phosphate.
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On 3/29/2024 at 11:29 AM, B Jake Moran said:
This car has "tilt wheel" per the Marti Report. But I don't see a "Tilt" handle on the left side.
Yes you have a tilt wheel. Behind the turn signal lever is a vertical rod that is displaced when the lever is pushed towards the dash. Easy to see when you know what to look for.
BUT beware. FoMoCo tilt wheels use a pot metal casting to hold the locking teeth on the “rack” for adjustment. The pot metal hole can become enlarged and then the lock doesn’t hold the wheel in place.
Test the wear by putting the wheel all the way up then attempt to pull it down without the release. With it up you can slam your palm on the bottom of the wheel and see if the lock mechanism holds.
You can also have the wheel all the way up and try turning the steering wheel against the power steering.
All of these put a huge strain on the tilt locks and test them for failure.
I have a 71 LTD convertible with buckets, console and tilt. My tilt column doesn’t lock. When strained it pops and the wheel falls to the low point. I was looking for a good column 30 years ago in the yards and never found one. (Again a wear point)
Columns for floor shift are unique and have unobtainum parts.
I have yet to disassemble mine but I’m not looking forward to having to machine up some replacement parts.
I hope your tilt column is in good shape.
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Kaiser people, is the supercharger actually a benefit or a detriment?
We know Kaiser installed them to compete with the V8s but in the 21st century are they repairable? Are they easy to tune? Are they reliable?
I have read about the principles behind superchargers (comparing the before and after carb designs) and I have understood that using the before carb variation, can really mess with float bowl venting and air-fuel mixtures through the Venturi.
On a Hudson the dual carb (Twin H) is reportedly to be simple and reliable and worth installing.
Is trying to run and maintain a supercharger on a Kaiser 6 really of value? Or more trouble than it’s worth?-
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Many decades ago an automotive machine shop could be an accumulation of machine tools in the back room of the parts house. The guy that turned your brake drums, pressed on your bearings and yes did your “valve job” was the same guy who sold you the parts and looked through the catalogs.
Their skills ranged from excellent with lots of experience to a high school kid working part time.
And you could expect your results to vary accordingly.
These operations are now gone, modern auto machine shops are staffed by skilled and experienced people who take pride in their results. (Read guarantee). When they accept a job, they want to do the entire job because they know that they will be responsible for the results. They will always be reluctant to get involved with jobs that they don’t have full control over.
Now understand that an engine is basically divided into two parts. The heads and the block (aka short block).
If you want to repair & rebuild the block (pistons, crank, bearings), then take the heads to the quality shop and allow them to give the heads all that they need.
Valves (and seats) need grinding. Lapping is a finish operation similar to rubbing out new paint. (Rubbing out old paint and rust is useless) An old head should be resurfaced.
As discussed above the valve guides need assessment and repair or replacement.
Each of these operations requires a special machine to perform but most of all they need an operator who knows how to achieve the best results.
Unless you have all the necessary equipment you are not going to accomplish much by trying to simulate the machine work without the tools.
So, you drop off the complete heads at a quality shop and they return to you a properly machined and fitted part that THEY GUARANTEE will function well.
We strongly encourage you to learn HOW machine work is performed but it needs to be learned under a good tutorage to get good results. There is no half way.
Now as for the block. Yes you can disassemble it and have the machine shop; bore, hone, line bore, turn the crank, etc and then YOU assemble everything. Then the results are totally on you.
PROPER engine assembly is not easy!! PROPER assembly requires special skills (and feel) and the ability to have and properly use things like micrometers. A thousandth here or there is the difference between running well and not.
There are hundreds of things that need to be done properly. Even skilled people have put things in upside down and backwards.
You have said that your experience is low. (How we all started) If there is any way that you can get an experienced engine builder to look over your shoulder as you go along it would be a tremendous benefit.
The thing about engine repair is that if one tiny thing is wrong it can cause major damage. If you replaced a wheel bearing wrong it’s not such a big deal. They are easy to get to and at worst only a few parts are destroyed.
Because ancient engine parts can be scarce and correcting mistakes and problems require huge tear downs is the reason why people rarely do quick, slipshod, “rebuilds” with used parts. It worked when the cars were a decade old and the junkyards were full of parts but it’s not a good idea today. -
“Sir your car isn’t worth anything close to what you are asking”
will garner the same response as:
“Sir you are worshipping a false god and your beliefs are all wrong”
They BELIEVE that their car is worth their asking price because…..well, they believe that it is. You are never going to convince them otherwise. It is a waste of time and energy to do anything else.
Eventually only the courts (divorce, bankruptcy, probate) can convince them of the actual market value.
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FYI - check your rear ratio. Full size Fords of this era have some very high (numerically low) ratios.
My 1971 LTD has a factory 2.75:1.
If you add an overdrive gearset to that you will likely be in the 1.90 range for a final ratio. Very real chance that it will slow down and lose power when it shifts into OD.
AUCTION: 3 Hours Left - Tucker Convertible - $2,375,000.00 (Rowlett, Texas)
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
It gets no respect because it is a complete fraud.
It IS a very interesting fantasy custom car. Absolutely it took a significant effort to bring it to reality.
The unpardonable sin was when the creator rolled it out he told lies.
If he had properly identified it as a one of none “I wish they had made it” car the collectors AND HISTORIANS would have been supportive.
But when you try to puff up the value with lies about how it was a prototype and discovered in warehouse and a bunch of other nonsense the legitimate knowledgeable car people will turn their backs on you.
$2 million dollars and what would you do with it? If the builder had been honest then it might have been allowed participation and display at the major big money shows AS A FANTASY CAR, but his lies did nothing but cloud the narrative and destroyed any interest in it.
Drive it or enter it into a weekend cruise night event is all you would ever be able to do with it. And for $2 million dollars you definitely want to show it at something bigger than a cruise night.
This is why legitimate car people decide this full custom car.