STUDE48

Hello All, well I am trying to rid an old Firetruck of the corp yard blues. it has one of those awful 6/12 relay systems from the 80s. when the answer was just put more battery to the truck, rather than fix it properly. so I need a complete original starter to put it back the way it should be 6v. Thanks

yes horn switch is the other thing and the round drum cover is for the clutch

studebaker cars were champion plug equipped. they were the take apart variety in this era. 17 I worked on had 3/4 pipe thread plugs. they are available modern from napa. take aparts are available from snyder antiques as they were common to model t fords as well

yes you will have to remove the front balancer starter chain, and the distributor. to facilitate the removal of the front timing cover. inside the cover the drive gear is retained by a nut and keyed to the shaft. on the out side the impeller is retained by a tapered pin. accessed after the hoses and the housing are unbolted. shaft can then be pulled out of the casting.

top photo looks like a top clamp to secure to the windshield frame.

take the old one to a machine shop, the shaft is a fairly easy part to machine. the brass impeller is a little harder to find.

bump to the top, thanks

DMC used to have repops available for 900

Anyone have anything?

Recently has a failure in the generator drive at the gear end. is anyone reproducing a gear set for the front end of the big and special sixes. a cursory gance at the parts books has part number 16984 shared series 19 cars to series 22 cars. 23 and 24 series cars are part number 24527, and a new number again in 25 of 109036. now what I dont know if they are the same part with a superceded number. I don't have any service letters indicating that. so with that are they available new or nos maybe. Thanks

John Boornakis top sockets and bows JohnBoornakis@gmail.com 530 885 4956 Cell 530 401 7777

Excellent Linus

there is a flat head pipe plug on the top of the pump and prime it with an oil can, replace plug and you should be able to to be ready to go.

previous owner of my car had the top bows rebuilt. the is a gentleman in Auburn, Ca. I have to look in the file for his info.

Why do you need to pull the oil pump? If it is an oil priming question there is a plug on the top of the oil pump. pull it out prime the pump with an oil can should be good to go. this is a circulating splash system. expect to see 1 to 3 psi hot on the gauge at idle, depending on bearing clearance.

Alex Trepanier in Pomona ,ca area has at least three early stude transaxles in his Stash. pm me for contact info

I was inquiring if there are still reproduction junction blocks studebaker number 30926. applications are special and big six 1919- 24

you could start it, If you don't find one, I can build one from mine for you.

1917 or later, because it has a rear mount fuel tank and a stewart vacuum tank. 1916 and earlier cars fuel tank was cowl mount with the gas filler stick8ng out the passenger side of the dashboard.

the inner portion, is reproduced, if your outer intact.

If you strike out on a drawing, I bought a set from a gentleman here that have yet to be installed. I will measure them .

also may have been a flap to seal up the side curtains better

this may hav been done to sew in a web strap and pretty it up

ground switch as I recall