Alex D.

Thats about as stupid looking as this one, Casper. Isn't there a saying that goes something like this? " Beware the eyes of March"

I once had a 29 Nash for sale and my asking price was firm. A fellow asked me why it was a couple hundred more this week than last. I explained to him that I had installed a muffler and the longer I have the car the more I will do to it. Next week the sale price may be higher. Sold!

How many automobiles in the 30’s used the Cuno oil Filter? The 1932 Cadillac had a rod from the starter to the Cuno oil filter. Every time the starter was pressed it would turn the discs inside the filter housing to separate the sludge from the disc. The sludge then can be drained by removing the plug at the bottom of the filter. How affective is the Cuno with modern high detergent motor oils?

It was explained to me by a paint supplier that the camera/scanner will not give a formula for the scanned color. It however gives the number of the closest match, which may be 60,80,90 percent and so on, and it is up to the painter or mixer to tweak it to an exact match. Forget about using the old IM (inter-mix) paint chip codes, those dyes no longer exist.

Removed the rev-limiter from a Boss 302. It cost me 7 pistons! I guess it could have been 8.

Roger, have you considered nickel plating some of these parts? It's a fairly easy process with white vinegar and salt solution, a nickel anode and a low volt DC power source.

Been there and done that. Small touch up guns work well and avoid sharp tape lines if you don't want to respray the whole panel.

Trying to address some fuel delivery issues on a V12 Cadillac. The fuel pump is being sent out for a rebuild. The pushrod has some weld on one end so I’m sure it was to compensate for wear in its previous life. Would any of you Cadillac V12 experts happen to know the exact length of this pushrod or where I can find these specifications? The one I have measures 7.509” and would like to verify. Thanks

Due to the excessive turning of the drums on my 32, the upper and lower shoes have been relined with 1/4-inch woven lining as opposed to the 3/16 lining per the service manual. While I was relining the shoes, I cleaned, polished and greased all links, anchor pins and cams. I now have good brake action with a much firmer pedal.

Due to the excessive turning of the drums, the upper and lower shoes have been relined with 1/4-inch woven lining as suggested. Without any luck finding a brake shoe grinder I applied sandpaper to the inside of the drums and worked the shoes back and forth till I got good contact. Rather time consuming but appears to be good results. I now have a good firm pedal and driveway testing are with good results. The road test will be later.

In back of the distributor there is a passage in the center of the block that the plug wires go through to the left side plugs.

Santa got a flat The junk I would drag home at around 16, My mother would find a use for it in her Christmas display. She would always try to do something different every year. One year she had a real sleigh with Santa crashing on the roof with packages thrown everywhere. My brother made her change it in fear that children would see it and think Santa wasn’t going to make it to their house. Merry Christmas

A lot of the Ash trees on the east coast are dying due to the Emerald Ash Borer. You might want to get your Ash while you can. Local saw mills in your area may be able to help you with referrals to woodworkers. A quick web search found https://www.owlssawmill.com/. They may be worth a try.

Watched a friend arc grind his shoes by applying adhesive backed sandpaper to half the inside of the drum and work the shoes back and forth. The other half he applied a dry guide coat to the drum and worked the shoes back and forth. The guide coat showed the contact area of the shoes. A process I might try if unable to find a brake shoe grinder local.

The drums are 15” cast iron and heavy. My thought was a thicker lining and ground to match the arch of the drums. This would also give me more room to adjust the centralization of the brake cam. There is no remaining adjustment on that cam and I don’t think I am getting equal contact pressure on the lower shoe.

Looking to reline the brake lining on a 1932 Cadillac. The manual states 3/16 lining. The previous owner had them relined with 1/4 inch upper and 3/16 inch lower. This may be correct for the 34/35 model but not sure with the 32. Why the different size lining? I think this may be part of the problem centralizing the brake cam and a soft pedal. What would be the proper lining material, woven or molded? McMaster sells semi-metallic woven and nonmetallic molded. The drums have been turned .070 over, should I go with a thicker lining? A thicker lining on the lower shoe will get me closer to centralizing the brake cam. Trying to get this right. Any input is appreciated Alex D.

Thanks for the quick replies. I had no idea. Outside diameter- 2 3/8 inch / 60mm Inside diameter- 1 15/16 inch / 50mm Height- 21/32 inch / 21.5mm Thread pitch per inch - 16

Purchased this cap for the ornament but don’t know the true application. The cap is nickel plated brass with an inside diameter of 2 inches and a 16-thread pitch. The hole in the center is 3/8 inch. Possibly late teens or early 20’s, but for what? Would appreciate any feedback. Thanks

Phil The service manual for 1932 is vague on their descriptions and procedures. I will leave the ¼ inch lining in place for now and focus on an adjustment to centralize the cam bracket that I may have done wrong. The manual states “loosen cam bracket locking nut and apply brakes firmly to centralize cam bracket. Tighten nut before releasing brakes”. That is what I have done, but I did not loosen the larger nut on the backing plate that attaches the cam assembly. I believe just loosening the small nut as per the manual had little to no effect on the cam position. Pete O Clevis pins have been replaced along with shoulder bolt and bushings so I think I may be able to rule that out.

You beat me to the post. I am having the same issue with a 32 Cadillac 370 B. All adjustments have been made according to the service manual and still can’t get a firm pedal. My rear brakes lockup and very little action from the front brakes unless I adjust too tight. The only problem I can find is from the previous owner. The PO had the shoes relined with ¼ inch lining on the upper and 3/16-inch lining on the lower. The manual calls for 3/16 lining. I will reline the upper shoes with 3/16 lining and report any results.

What about the Clark Car. I would not consider it a street rod or resto mod, but a car built from existing parts and registered as the Clark Car. A Speedster?

About 45+ years ago I stopped to see a friend on Thanksgiving Day. The whole family was there including his 95-year-old grandfather. A conversation was started on my 1930 Buick, which led to him telling me about when he worked for an automobile manufacturer in Hagerstown Maryland. The car was called a Dagmar. He was a sheet metal mechanic and helped build the bodies for the Dagmar. A very interesting fellow and sharp as a pin. I wish I would have spent more time with him listening to his stories. History is lost. Back to the OP. The interior wood work looks to be Walnut with an Elm or Maple burl veneer. The window garnish molding in my 32 Cadillac is walnut that is steam bent. I sure would like to know the process the manufacture used to produce such garnish moldings on a mass produces automobile.

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