MyJetstar1

In all honesty, I would avoid the Corvair for a first time old car purchase. I think there would be a little too much tinkering involved for the new enthusiast, and quite honestly, no one around here (I live in South Dayton area) besides my dad, knows how to work on them for a reasonable amount. A model I like, based on your input would be the Impala's. 1965 would be the most affordable, in my opinion, followed by the 66. The 67 and 68's are too hard to get sheet metal for, so they would have to have super nice bodies, and the 69 and 70's are just slightly better for aftermarket support. I'm a professional restorer in the area, so if you do get it nailed down to one car, let me know, and I can give you some input on local service and parts providers. Sorry for the run on sentences, I was trying to type a reply before I had to run, lol! Regards, Jim

It really depends on body style, and a features, in my opinion. If it's a "little black dress" type, you don't need to see anything else, because it looks fantastic just from outward appearances. If you drive a "pantsuit", such as myself, you have to open the hood. Otherwise it looks like any other burgundy pantsuit.

Have you tried Max Merritt? www.maxmerrittauto.com If they don't have it, they may be able to point you in the right direction. The Packard museum in Dayton, Ohio used to have an annual garage sale, but I'm not sure if they sell parts outright. Either place may be able to point you in the right direction.

When I was a kid, my mom had a new 1969 Camaro that she named "Phyllis". When you road in "Phyllis", your feet were on the floor mat, your hands were on your lap, and you didn't touch ANYTHING! When I'd get out of the car in the summer, I'd have dimples in my legs from those bumpy clear plastic seat covers. Some of my greatest memories as a kid in that car. I've probably had 20 or so 69 Camaro's since, but there is only one "Phyllis". While I didn't name it, friends have tagged my JS1 as the "BBW". It started by my trying to explain it was sort of an oversized 442, and it just went bad from there. Now I get a lot of "Are you taking the BBW?", lol!

Often times the packages I receive appear to have been hit by a train. In the past, I was merely exaggerating when I inquired, now, I can reasonably ask. "Geez, was that hit by a train?".

Although difficult at times, I'm sure, try to consider it a form of flattery or appreciation. Many of you have beautiful examples of museum quality cars, and I believe often times the person inquiring is just trying to correlate a monetary value, with the vehicle in front of them. Maybe with the hopes of one day having the means to acquire such a vehicle. On the other hand, my poor Oldsmobile must have a perceived value of about 800 bucks. I get some genuine offers of really ridiculously low amounts, or trades. I just smile "Thanks, your 92 Taurus is one of the cleanest ones I've seen, but I think I'll just hang onto the Olds for a while". No sense in being mean, besides, you never know when two fools will meet, lol!

Hmnn, can't catch a break on your first question. I'm sure you'll be eager to ask another, lol! So, different boosters are for different applications, I suspect you currently have a 4 wheel drum manual set-up. If that's the case, you will probably be looking at an 11 inch (actually slightly less) booster. They are based on vehicle options. Some options are 4 wheel drum, front disc rear drum, 4 wheel disc, and even engine size. The smaller boosters are generally big block applications, with front disc, or all drums. Pick the booster that most closely matches your current set-up, with which you merely want to add the power option. Keep in mind you may have to experiment on the rod length. Hope this helps a little. Jim

Geez...I've sort of figured it out. I guess it only proves the car looks it's best from a slight distance.

At the risk of sounding insensitive to the community, that warehouse was in a pretty rough part of town. Having done a Caribbean or two, if memory serves me, that facility was more of a storage area for donor Patrician's, 400's, and Clippers for the use in more historically significant restorations. While I'm sure some decent parts were lost, I don't know of anything too valuable having been there, and certainly not a smart move, if there were.

I didn't do too bad, it was kind of interesting. I have to admit, though, that a couple I guessed correctly by saying to myself, "that is so hideous, it had to be made by xxxxx".

I don't think body style plays into new car purchases as much now, as it did in the past. In the "olden days" folks wanted a significant change in body, in order to be identified as a "new model" car owner. Now, your old car was silver, with rounded plastic bumper covers, and your new car is a different shade of silver, with rounded plastic bumper covers. The main difference is your old car had 6 jigawatts of internet capability, and your new car has 12 jigawatts of internet capability with a nice 20 inch touchscreen that slides up to block your windshield, lol!

Have you checked for a giant vacuum leak? If you "feather" it, can you get the rpm's up? As mentioned above, a compression check. Maybe a valve is too tight and not shutting all the way? Can you just bring it by the house?, lol!

Hmmnnn...So are you sure your carb linkage is opening all the way? I've seen some where the gas pedal goes to the floor, but not adjusted to provide wide open throttle at the carb. Then, maybe, timing? Could it be a tooth off? Many will run, but just barely. Can you get more power out of it by moving the timing from the factory setting. Assuming good fuel flow, just a couple thoughts.

The 27K and above values are pretty much dominated by the short bed 1/2 ton versions. There is a more limited market for 3/4 ton 4WD versions, thus I just don't think that kind of value is there. Keep in mind that many of those trucks are "aftermarketed" ( I know, I made that up myself) to death, and things like grill shells, and even steering wheels, aren't even close to originals. I feel bad for folks that spend 20 grand on a vehicle, only to discover 80% of it was made in China.

I think one of the most important things, at least from the hobbyist standpoint, is being very familiar with the make and model you are looking at before you buy. Know your values, both in it's present condition, and the market value completed. Things like parts cost and availability, known problem areas, or issues, and so on. One of the most disappointing things would be to get what is perceived to be a great deal, only to find out you need a major part that is virtually impossible to find, or so costly it exceeds the value of your project significantly. When I go look at a car of interest to me, I'll know right off the bat, what the engine will cost me if locked up, which pieces of trim are non-existent, how many incorrect parts are on the vehicle, and about a dozen other things. The last thing you want is to have to turn it into a "resto-rod", lol!