uh6077

Looking for 41 Desoto 905335. Thanks

Open to offers or possible trades. Can send more pictures

Green enamel gas station light mounted on pole with old truck rim as base. Pole just slides onto base so if needed it could be mounted anyway you chose. Light hood is adjustable up/down and also tilts at angle side to side. Measurements are 8ft tall with light hood all the way up 7ft tall with hood all the way down (hood mount is higher than hood at that point so 7ft is the height of the mount) Hood is 23.5x24 inches Wheel base is 23 inch diameter Cord is 40ft long Farmer used it as his portable light to work on tractors which is why the pole has a electrical box and multiple cords hangers welded on. Pole is easily removable if you just want to use the original light and mount. Light bulb is huge. Asking $300 and can deliver to Hershey next week (must be paid for in advance). Enamel is much like an old sign, chipped in the back where kids probably threw rocks at it for years (i can tell it was mounted in the full up position so the chip Mark's would have been pointing down) and the front lip shows rust where the many years of weather got to it. White underside is very nice. Use it outside your shop or do like I did and use it in the garage as decoration. Many more pictures available

I am guessing it will go something like this. "I am currently deployed to the middle east and the car is in Germany. After funds are received I will ship car to you". We all dream of getting a "steal" but they just don't exist anymore, especially at less than half price. Would have been more believable if he didn't say it had been restored. If he had it restored then he obviously spent $50K plus. The next forum he tries to scam he will say "My father passed away and left me this car. Not sure what it is worth but I think $40K is fair". That would really get the people drooling.

The chart you have is correct, S20 is from a 1954 Chrysler.

Perhaps it was used as a car to carry around diplomats and that is what the paperwork is referring to. Value is going to hard. A limo will be worth quite a bit less than a stock Fireflite just because it is not a car you can just drive around town easily. BUT if you can find proof that it has a historical connection or was used to carry a famous politician then the value would increase. Restoring would have to be a labor of love because the cost will far exceed any value

I didn't see any mention of the overdrive, Did you talk to the seller about it? I would love to get an OD and I am sure I could find some more useable spare parts from it.

I am getting ready to rebuild my 41 Desoto engine. It is torn down and at the machine shop now getting cleaned up and measured to see what it needs. Looks like I need .030 over pistons. I see that oldmoparts has them but tit doesn't specify what brand (I want to buy only USA if possible). Where else do you guys recommend to look? I am bummed because I bought a NOS set of standard pistons and pins a few months ago. Still in the original box and each piston still in wrapping paper. They were cheap enough so it will be cool to just leave them on the shelf.

I have 41 Desoto deluxe (profile pic). They are a wonderful car, smooth as a sewing machine. Mine still has the WWII gas ration sticker in the windshield. I actually bought it to resell a few years ago but it is never leaving the family, I just fell in love with it's originality. I don't have any pictures of the car in 1941 so I had one drawn. I am a veteran so the artist drew my car pulling up to the Army recruiter volunteering for WWII.

I like the story except the part about the uncle buying it in Jan of 41 after serving in WWII. We didn't enter the war until after Pearl Habor Dec 7th 41. Could he have bought it in Jan 1942?

The 41 came standard with a manual 3 speed and the Fluid Drive was an option. My 41 Deluxe 2dr has the 3 speed manual. My pedals are pretty even and it shifts nice and smooth so the one you are looking at probably needs some adjusting. Nothing to worry about, just needs and little attention. There are numerous connections that need to be cleaned and lubricated at least yearly. Sounds like maybe it hasn't been done in a while. When a clutch wears out the pedal will have a lot of slack. Maybe they adjusted the pedal to remove the slack. Worst case it needs a new clutch plate.

Very nice 67 Chrysler 300 with it's original big block 440 and transmission. Comes with original window sticker and build sheets. 75,000 miles. New parts include Edlebrock carb Master cylinder Water pump Front brakes Exhaust Battery Rear axle seal Seats recovered It is registered, inspected and on the road. I drive it at least a few times a week. Very nice condition chassis with original undercoating still intact, NO RUST!! It is remarkable that it has spent it's life in the northeast and is this rust free. Comes with original Carter carb, new in the box Edelbrock Torker aluminum intake and some other new parts not installed. Very reliable, runs great and gets attention everywhere. Every light, switch, button and knob works as it should. Even the AM radio still works great. It went to all the local shows this year and now time for someone else to enjoy it. Asking $9000 obo or trade/partial trade for another car or vintage motorcycle. Can drive the car to you if you pay the expenses.

Ahh, yes, Trader Vic

Replaced the master, bled the brakes again and it is better. Went for a test drive and she stops again. Still not great but I should be able to adjust it a bit. At around 50 mph it slows down quickly but then the last 5mph or so it seems like it isn't grabbing like it should. Also the emergency brake isn't working so looks like the rears may be out of whack a little.

It already has a dual master, must have been converted at some point. I found a refurb unit at Pep Boys. I bench bled it and will change it out tomorrow.

Took everything apart today to see if anything was obvious. Shoes and drum look to be perfectly mated. Not that having a specialist arc them would not help but I don't think that is the problem right now. I pushed the wheel cylinders all the way in to make sure there no pocket of air trapped. Bled everything again. Set the self adjusters to give a slight drag. Everything back together and still no change. Worked the emergency pedal in and out a dozen or so times to see if the adjusters would set themselves, still no change. Back and forth int he driveway a few dozen times (neighbors probably think I am bonkers) but still hardly any brakes. At this point it has to be the master right? Maybe putting on the new brakes and put a strain on it or something. I will try to find one locally but probably have to order it. If that doesn't fix it then I am at a loss as to what else it could be. Did I mention it has power brakes? Could the booster be bad?

It is a 66. I have too many dang cars and projects and they just blend together sometimes. If they are disk brakes then I have a really big problem because the drums slide right onto the spindle :-)

Hmmm, I didn't even think of that that would make sense. I will take them apart tomorrow and have a look. Assuming the drum is are not making contact with the whole shoe how can I them them? Just heat them with a torch and open/close the bend as needed?

Yes the pedal is soft but it wasn't at all before I changed the shoes and turned the drums.

Let me start by saying I am not a total idiot, I promise. I have a 68 Imperial and since I bought it a few months ago the brakes have always been iffy. At low speeds they were very strong but at a high speed stop I could tell they were not grabbing like they should. Took everything apart and found the front shoes to be really glazed. I had the drums turned and put in new shoes. The system was not opened at all. I set the adjuster wheels to give a slight drag. Well that was 2 weeks ago and I still have not been able to get the brakes working again. The pedal is very soft and goes a few inches before any resistance then it feels like air in the system (again it wasn't opened up so shouldn't have air in it). Played with the adjusting wheels again but that didn't help. With the drums off I can see the shoes moving fine. So I bled the system numerous times with no change. Tried it with wife helping (typical push, hold, release, repeat). Tried with my two bleeders (mity hand held vac and a air powered bleeder) and still no change. Started bleeding at rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger then front driver. What the heck am I missing? Right now the brakes are not even strong enough to stop the car quickly at idle so it is no where near safe to take on a test drive. HELP!!!

Looks to be a pretty nice car, especially for the price. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/5260110914.html

Agree it is a Hudson Hornet but I think the bumper is off something else, maybe a Super Six?

Probably means his son just digs through the piles of parts that guys leave at their spots or in the garbage cans rather than drag it home and store for another year, Good idea. Doubtful that anything of big value gets thrown away but every little bit helps when a youngster is trying to raise money. Teaches him not to have such a disposable lifestyle as well.

Bump.

The engine is all stripped and the head is off, just haven't pulled it form the car yet. Still need to disconnect the shift linkages and it will be ready to come out. Bores measured within stock range and no lip so it won't need to be bored, just a good honing. Obviously it will need bearings but won't know what size until it comes apart.