buick55

great thanks! thats the information I needed

so both starters will interchange each other with no problem? from my knowledge all engines from 54-56 are nearly the same, starter sits on drivers side. maybe someone can surely say if the 1107646 will work on a 1955 264 nalihead engine

hi all, I have a 1955 buick special with a delco starter 1107621. now I can buy a starter from a 1956 buick delco number 1107646 as spare part. it looks like the same, but does it really fit and work? why I ask is, in the 1955 shop manual it says the starter rotates clockwise, in the 1956 it says counter-clockwise. is that correct? cause then in my opinion it will not work. but all sellers say both starters are for 1954, 1955 and 1956 nailheads. confussing for me...

thats normal, if you ONLY drain the oil pan, check your shop manual then you only have to put in about 6 qt of oil! when you also drain the converter too, its about 9 qt and if its completely dry its about 10qt. but either you should check level in between when car is running after a oil change, and oil should be warm because it extends when warm. you will not damage the gearbox with 3-5 qt of oil in it and running without driving to fill up the oil correct to level between low and max an the dipstick. now you have to remove some oil!

at mine too, also no bulb for it...

I just removed the 4 bolts from the steering gear box and lift it up a bit. so the steering wheel inside comes down und you can easily remove or mount the dash.

I am new into buicks and when I bought the car I dont know much about every little part of it, like everyone. when the seller told you all is complete and you dont see that sometimes just little parts are missing or maybe are defect (much of them you find out until you work on the car, not before), what would you do? I bought the car from the US and of course it was cheap too... but first and last time for sure! some screws or little parts doesnt matter for me, you just need to know how the part looks like and where to buy and the car was nearly complete, only a few missing small parts and screws or bad looking old parts, like the headlight bezels (I know now that these are hard to find).

sorry for being late on the feedback. some weeks ago I changed these side seals at the rear bearing cap with the rubber parts incl the metal stick. I could remove the old cork seals with just a screw into it and pull it out, after that I was sure it was dripping there new parts work fine, put them in together with permatex no2. I started the engine some times last days and checked it everday on leaks. my engine is now 100% dry, I am very happy. thanks for your help...

I am in germany, thats my problem. I have no car near to me where I can have a look... checke the roof line, I found some holes in the roof metal while pushing the headliner a bit. not all, but that make sense the only open point for me is how the screws looks like, especially at the front glass molding? for the back glass molding I have the screws (wondering, they seems to be very long).

yes that option I know. but it is mor easier to know how it looks like, cause I dont want to destroy my new headliner if the screws go there. for me its not clear where the screws go through, without headliner in I also have seen no holes (what I remember, but not sure). so any help or better pictures would be very nice...

I checked your videos, but they doesnt help me. is it possible that can make good picture where the screw holes are front and back glass for all moldings at the car body? and would also be nice to see the screws from the front glass molding and what size und length they have. these are completely missing, from the back glass molding I have them.

ohh nice I will check this, have seen you thread, thanks for the hint. its also a 2dr hardtop, so perfect for me

hi there... I am now on the way to put the interior together but I dont know where the colored inside moldings around front and back glass would be assembled?! my problem, I bought the car with these parts not mounted, so I dont know how it looks original. I have a new headliner in and dont see any screw holes. I just saw from the back window the screws are very long, for the front I dont have the right screws yet. does anyone has detailed pictures or explosion views how to mount them all? any help or tips would be great. its a 1955 buick special 2dr hardtop

great thanks, yes a dry test I prefer in that case and after that also much sealer. better more than less

thanks for your tips... and when I understand right from the description. first I put the cap to the engine and then push the rubber incl seal in, then tapping in the metal expanders, flush all and after that fill it with seal, right? and have I really to chamfer the original cap?

thanks KAD36 for explanation. I think I will try these rubber gaskets with much sealer

yes these parts i want to replace which are sitting sideways in the cap. these rubber parts were in a gasket set I have here... but when you say they are POS I will try the cotton solution.

ok thanks, I think now I understand... I will try that soon, first I have to order a new oil pan gasket and the other parts. here a picture of the parts the cap which I got with a rear sealing kit. rubber parts, which will leak as hell when I understand right

yes I know how the bearing cap and grooves look like. and I have also a rear bearing sealing set here, but I have heard many times that these parts from the set will leak at the grooves. if not I can also use them, but I dont want to try and error and do this twice, because I have no car lift and have to do this under the car jacked up. so willie has the idea with cotton twine an permatex no 2 sealer. so for me its interesting what exact cotton twine is perfect to use, cause I dont know the size of teh groove nothing more...

I know how the parts looks like, I have an explosion view of the engine parts. but I dont know which size the groove has and so what cotton twine (and also where to buy something like that in nearly correct size) works best for it that would be easier to know then try and error and have the engine open for days or weeks...

sorry for my missunderstanding (cause I am from germany)... so it should be much thicker than the groove from the cap to hammer it in until its flat on all three sides? the sealer should be added before on the cotton and also a bit into the groove right? a pictures would help I do not know which size are the groove in the cap, have never seen one disassembled. and it would be nice to oraganize what I need before I begin, so I can work directly step by step on it.

yeah I know theser rubber gaskets. what for a cotton twined material is best for that and which diameter or thickness works best? maybe someone has a link what to use, would be nice.

@chris ok really? i will try that first, but I think it will drip from the seals on the side of the cover. @old-tank the rope itself ist dry around the crank to flywheel. but when is see your pictures its possible to change the seals sideways of the cover, good to know. I think these will be the problem.

I started my engine for a test and its completely dry except these two spots. engine was sitting before about 2 years in my clean and dry garage during restoration of the car and was overhauled before some years ago and was running only 2000 miles. oil I use motul classic 20w-50 mineral, like in all my old cars, never have had problems with it. I inspected the whole engine for oil leaks and also with an endoscope between flywheel and engine case, all is dry there, also the rear bearing itself. seems to be at the rear bearing cap drips left and right after a short run (1 minute, engine cold) and high oil pressure (what I see on the original gauge) you have after around 30 minutes (engine off) two little oil spots under the car. after 24 hours engine not running its about two 4 inch oil spots under the car after some days no more oil drips there, until I start the engine again, then it begins again. I have no problem if an old car drips a little bit (my beetle does also), but this seems to be a bit too much in my opionion. is that only a problem with these little seals which are sideways in the rear bearing cap? is it possible to change these with engine in the car? if yes, how is the best way and what should I cosnider? (any tip to perfectly seal it is welcome) or will it be tight again after a while under oil and engine running some times, because of long and dry sitting? (I know some cork seals and so on need more oil to seal) thats really nerving, I was so happy that all other things work and all is dry...

I dont know how, and all is fresh painted and sits right. sadly, I mentioned the broken cable to late