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theKiwi

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Posts posted by theKiwi

  1. There are bolts into the engine behind the fan - so first you have to remove the fan from the front of the crankshaft - get the crank snout off first, then undo the big nut (without using a cold chisel) and then pull the fan off.

     

    While the fan is off, you should send it to Paul Fitzpatrick @PFitz for him to put new rubber disks in it.

     

    Roger

  2. 2 minutes ago, Edwin The Kid said:

    I will be sending the master and 2 wheel cylinders for relining, and buying two new front cylinders from Jeff Hasslen.

    That's what I'm doing too - turned out my rear wheel cylinders were new, so I'm replacing the front one with the larger 1-⅜ wheel cylinders, and once I get the master cylinder apart will send that and my 2 rear cylinders to Jeff to go for sleeving along with the new cylinders so all are sleeved in stainless and will last forever.

     

    Roger

     

    • Like 1
  3. 8 hours ago, George sapia said:

    Hello my trailer came with wire wheels , but most pics show artillery wheels did they come with either originally?

    Standard they came on artillery wheels, but you could get them with the same wheels as your car had so that you had 1 spare to go on either your car or trailer.

     

    So it's possible the wire wheels are original to the trailer if they are wire wheels from a contemporary car.

     

    Roger

  4. 2 minutes ago, 3makes said:

    No. I have successfully recovered the original  wire basket.

    Yeah I've done that once too - a finicky fiddly little job, but in absence of a gascolator already, getting the wire basket might be even harder.

    I recently got hold of one that is to go in a car at the Franklin Automobile Collection at Hickory Corners that I put a small Wix fuel filter and spring to hold the filter up against the Gascolator housing.

     

    Roger

  5. 1 minute ago, 3makes said:

    Replace that filter and get a Stewart Gascolator and put it on the vacuum tank where it belongs at the top of the vacuum tank.

    Do  you  know of a source for the filter elements for the gascolator? Originally they are a wire basket with chamois leather over it.

     

    Roger

  6. So that is actually filtering the line from the fuel tank to the vacuum tank?!

     

    If so, then that's probably normal as the vacuum tank operates - the suction is applied by the engine to the vacuum tank, the fuel is drawn from the fuel tank through the filter to the vacuum tank, and what you're seeing is the fuel arriving to, and being sucked out of the vacuum tank as the vacuum tank cycles. At idle it only has to do this every few minutes.

     

    Roger

  7. 1 hour ago, dquinonez said:

    My after market fuel filter is in line below the vacuum tank.

    Does it look like fuel is sucking back out of the carburettor at the times the vacuum tank cycles - i.e. is drawing fuel from the tank?

     

    Can you take, and post, a close up video of the fuel filter that is below the vacuum tank showing this "frothing"?

     

    Is the amount of fuel in it changing perhaps increasing in level as the vacuum tank is drawing fuel from the tank?

     

    There's only 1 gasket in a vacuum tank normally, and they are readily available.

     

    Roger

  8. The frothing in the fuel filter is probably when the vacuum tank operates. It could be one of two things...

     

    If it's in an aftermarket fuel filter in the line from the vacuum tank to the carburettor: I saw this at the 2023 Trek with a vacuum tank where it turned out that the flapper valve on the bottom of the inner tank of the vacuum tank wasn't sealing completely, and so every time the vacuum tank operated, it was actually drawing fuel back out of the carburettor.

     

    If you are observing the "frothing" in the original Gascolator mounted on top of the vacuum tank, depending on how much "frothing" there is, this is normal as fuel is drawn from the fuel tank to the inner tank in the vacuum tank.

     

    Roger

    • Like 1
  9. Thanks Lee - that's reassuring about the wiring job - I'm imagining getting 4 wires through each side OK, and then getting stuck getting wires 5 and 6 through - particularly through the parts were 3 wires from each side cross to the other side.

     

    Did you pull all the wires and then replace them, or did you use the old wires in place to pull the new wires through one at a time?

     

    Thanks for the offer to set the distributor up - I guess in Indiana you're not so far away from the Gilmore.

     

    I'll be there next Monday and have a discussion with the powers that be about this and see how we'll proceed. It's a little bit complicated in that the car is owned by the CCCA Museum (but not good enough to be on display in their museum), but the Gilmore Car Museum has used it in the past, and I'm volunteering with the Gilmore Car Museum when I work on these cars on Mondays.

     

    Thanks

     

    Roger

  10. Hi Lee

     

    Thanks for that - I've saved the diagram, and will have a look at it some day. It wasn't right after having had the coils done by Skip Haney - better than it was, not still not right.

     

    We hadn't looked at the wiring much, but had kind of stalled out on something else I'd read either here or somewhere else - that all the plug wires jammed into the two tubes that run down each bank could age and start leaking "spark" amongst themselves and to the tube, so had kind of stalled out on the idea of replacing all those wires in the tubes to see if that helped.

     

    But using that diagram to check things out would also be helpful. The car had been part of the "Ride the Classics" programme - it's not good enough to be a museum car, so for some time has sat in one of the storage barns.

     

    Again thanks

     

    Roger

  11. 3 hours ago, West Peterson said:

    I received my coil back from Skip Haney. Quick turnaround time. I installed it on Saturday, and the car now runs perfectly. Overdrive also works well. Great car to drive. With only 29,000 miles on it, it rides like a new car. 

    Great News West

     

    The one I worked on at the Gilmore Car Museum has not such great news - it used to run on only one bank (one bank is controlled by the front rotor/coil, the other bank by the rear rotor/coil).

     

    Skip did his magic, but it's still not running great - but definitely firing on both banks, just not all cylinders all the time. My suspicion now lies with the wires to the spark plugs - jammed into those tubes as they are, I am wondering if it's misfiring because of leakage in the old perished wires. That will be quite the job to correctly thread a whole new set of wires through those tubes!!

     

    Roger

  12. On 4/12/2022 at 8:22 AM, West Peterson said:

    Jump up five posts. Skip Haney address

    I just called the Day number listed there "the number you called is not in service". 
     

    called the night number and left a message.

     

    the domain fordsrus.com isn't working either.  
     

    Anyone know if Skip Haney is still around repairing coils?

     

    Roger

  13. On 8/9/2022 at 9:23 AM, 19tom40 said:

     

    My recommendation is to send the distributor and coil to Skip Haney. Incorrect dwell will damage a coil.

    How does one contact Skip Haney?

     

    I have the distributor off, and don't see anything obvious in the points, so it is likely the coil that runs the front rotor. 
     

    Roger

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