Frank DuVal

The brake pedal height is not adjustable (says so in the manual above) because it is set by the return of the mater cylinder pistons to rest position. I've seen low brake pedal caused by dirty master cylinder bores/pistons. Unless the brakes are dragging, just remember to pick up the brake pedal until you can have the master rebuilt. Or find a hardware store:😉 I have used a screen door spring to act a return spring back before I found it was the master cylinder being gunked causing the issue. The gunk from DOT 3 ( who knew about flushing the DOT 3 every two years?) is stronger than the internal return spring in the master. Now I just clean (rebuild) the master to fix the problem. 👍

Not buying it. My 66 Chevrolet Biscayne wagon with a 283 and three speed would wear out fiberglass belted tires (I bought the wagon in 1974 and drove it until 1982) every 12K miles or so. I would actually get free replacements on the tire warranty. Sure, the front end might have been out, but, I got it aligned every year during one of the state inspections (every 6 months back then). I bought a 1957 Olds once (in the late 70s) with 14K miles. The original tires had been snow capped and regular recapped! Of course those 50s tires were not good for even 10 K miles. U.S. Royal Safety 8s. Yes, documented 14 K miles from all the inspection receipts in the glove box. Two receipts every year, pretty easy to see a pattern.😉 Now a days if we don't get 50K miles out of tires something is wrong!🤣

That looks great Matt!❗👍

45° Long flare nuts (1/8" - 3/4") are available from several sources (McMaster Carr, SupplyHouse, etc). Now, if they have the same thread as the mating part on your car will need to be investigated. Odd, Restoration Supply does not have flare nuts. Flair nuts are in the movie Office Space, I highly recommend watching this movie!🤣 Now where is my red stapler....😮

It was "just A Used Car" at the time! Seen it more than I wish I had. Elderly driver slowed own and then the family did not want to drive it. Get me one of those small Toyotas or VW Rabbits, hard to get gas, and expensive, in the 70's you know, embargo and all.😉❗ Seat wear is not always a good indication. Had a family friend with a 21K mile 66 Belair in the late 70s. The front seat had already been recovered because the car was parked in the old tight '20s garage so she had to enter and exit from the passenger's door every time she drove it a few miles to the store/church/friends. Yes, Mark IV used the York compressor. Typical installation here in central VA. Sears was the other one, also York on the ones I saw. And, upper radiator bracket might change with the addition of factory AC on the assembly line. My grandfather bought a new '65 Buick LeSabre and had a Mark IV installed within months. A year later the crank broke and the dealer blamed the add on AC, of course. He traded it on a 67 Special with factory air a year later. Last year for the V-6 until later in the 70s.

Are the VIN/body/chassis tags with the titles...? That does make them worth more, I mean, nope, useless....😮 It is the "I think" part that is curious. Are the vehicles in any place he might have stored them? If they are not anywhere the family can find them, and friends should know he has passed and come with details of cars they stored for him, then useless paper, unless someone wants them for wall hangings. For me a title not in my name OR any identification numbers of prior owners (like driver's license or SSN like on some state's titles) would just be recycled. No need to shred, nothing of importance. Now if it was a Corvette title or other expensive theft target car, maybe shred.

I have been using DOT 5 for 40 years. No problems. I also use it to lube the wheel cylinder parts. I didn't go to tech school (school of hard knocks for auto is mine) so never heard of Syl-Glyde until a few years ago. But I buy my DOT 5 from the same people, AGS (American Grease Stick).😉

It started out life as a three prong NEMA 5-15P plug. You can see the typical "triangular" shape in the first photo. But, it may have been a two prong plug for most of its life.🤣 I agree, cord cut because of cord damage or internal issue. Read from both the white and black wires in the drill to the case. There should be infinite resistance, with the trigger pulled. Just use the trigger lock to eliminate a needed hand.😉

Usually there is a spring wound around the lock mechanism. If this is not there, you need one. See the leftmost lock in this picture: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/18115/10002/-1?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImoSd65-lhQMVOEhHAR2AAwLuEAQYAiABEgICf_D_BwE That spiral looking spring on the end away from the keyway. If the spring is there, then lubricate. I like Lock-Ease. Others like dry powdered graphite, but just a little! it is easy to puff too much in. Most locksmiths warn against using WD-40. TriFlow is used by some also.

The small hole may be the restriction to limit how much oil flows through the filter. Too much flow and it robs the bearings of flow. On various systems the restriction can be in the fittings on the block, the filter or inside the filter.😉

455 is not hard to rebuild. Parts are available. As all responses said, what's wrong with it?

I've got most every brand of power tool! Electric and Pneumatic. When you buy mostly used or inherit this happens. But this does not answer the OP's question. It looks modern. By modern I mean after plastic became normal on power tools, maybe late 60s through 90s. Does it have the standard NEMA 5-15P plug? That three prong one so prevalent in the US. Earlier (40s 50s) tools had the two prong plug, some with a green pigtail hanging out to attach to a ground screw. On second look, that might be black metal, not plastic, but then that might mean the manufacturer produced a similar cheaper version with plastic parts that are black and had a different name on it. It has a Black and Decker look to it, but then there are several other similar manufacturers.

The sealant for flare refrigerant fittings is Blue Nylog. (Or red Nylog). The refrigerant is not a solvent for these products. I've never used sealant on other flare fittings. There are copper sealing washers you can use on the flares. Parker makes them. Glad AHa had the AHa moment and fixed the issue!👍

Simple, don't put your body parts between heavy things and immovable objects. Rule 1. Never ignore rule 1. I've seen head gaskets go bad from this approach, well if the nut is on a head stud, as most of those in the picture are. I do agree a more rearward placement of the rear strap would be better. If the strap is held by a crank main then it isn't going anywhere. I would still follow rule #1!

Yes! And picking up way heavier and expensive stuff too.😉

To check the ammeter I would just connect one wire to the hot battery terminal (whether + or - depending on if positive or negative ground) and the other terminal to the wire to a head lamp or heater motor. It should read. Read what? Well, that depends on the amp rating of the head lamp or heater motor. Or do you mean to test the charging system?

👍

That tire and tube is AMAZING! ❗ I take it this Mack is mechanical brakes with an adapted booster to help move the brake linkage. Is this right? ❓

And all failed except Pontiac. Yep, Oakland went away. I looked at a 1930 Marquette a few years ago (5?) that was woodless (best description) and decide not to buy it. At the time I thought the engine was an Oldsmobile derivative, but don't quote me! Research needed. My friend who was with me to look at it thought maybe a steel superstructure could be fabricated faster than making all the wood needed to hold all those sheet metal panels together.🤣 Buick, Valve In Head.👍 99.99%

Right. This was probably NOT a one off produced booster, but sourced from another vehicle, even if aftermarket, so it could be similar to another vehicle's booster a forum member may have seen. More information is always better than less information when trying to get answers for obscure questions. 😉

Interesting, Larry, I thought S meant extended tip, as in the electrodes were further out from the shell. As in you can see porcelain when looking perpendicular to the shell. Maybe they also have the unthreaded part of the shell so it is the same S?

No. There were improvements during those years. Now can it fit? I do not know.

Well, I'll give information on Clarks' Upholstery, but from the Corvair side of the bucket seat isle. You need strong hands! You will be pulling and stretching up inside that seat back. The back may seem simple, just pull it on, but there is a lot going on inside there that you have to do. Then you have to stretch it to join the ends at the bottom. The bottom of the seats and the rear seats are not enclosed, so they are easier. I did not say easy!😉 A fellow Corvair guy in Virginia was an upholsterer and he said the seat backs were hard on hands. But he still jumped in and helped me and the seat owner get the covers on during a Corvair meet. A mini Tech Session. That was about 10 years ago. A helper is great, like in this example, as one needs hand strength or two hands. As stated above, get all the internal parts you may need. I thought (please confirm!) I just saw Clarks does not have the cloth covered wiggly (listing?) wire. I may have these terms confused, as some wiggly wire is bare, or maybe it was once covered and now bare when I removed it.😮

Just like Weller soldering guns, the tip nuts HAVE to be tight! I see the tip nut wrench in the ad, but do not see wrench flats on the tip nuts???? Have Channellocks? That's what I use once the flats wear off the Weller tip nuts. Yes, I have used 8200 series guns for over 60 years. D550 when I need bigger heat. After that I use the 300 watt American Beauty Iron. Maybe tin gutters?🤣 Now, the newer crop of Wellers, having been cheapened, have "Allen" screws instead of the old 3/8" nuts, but they can come apart internally, which is bad, same as loose tip nuts, high resistance = low amps = low heat, E=IR and all that. Pick up an old 8200 with actual tip nuts at a yard sale or such.👍

Well, until recently (OK recently in the last 30 years!) there were only two major fluids, Dexron (I II III and the superseded Type A) and Type F for Fords. So Dexron was the go to fluid for changeovers, as friction modifiers were not needed to shift properly in hydraulic systems other than transmissions. Then all these Vehicle Manufacturers decided if Ford had their own fluid then so would Toyota, Honda, etc and so forth and to keep these automatics running right you needed the manufacturer's fluid. AAAHHHH! ❗ So, Dexron. The III is fine. aka Dexron III/Mercon, or Dex Mec (or is that Tex Mex?) Dex Merc. 🚗🛠️🏎️