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About alapmi

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  • Birthday 09/01/1995
  1. I got the front window out, the dash does not come out. little trouble with the outside roof steel liner. I'm pretty solid on jade green and white stripe, its the color i've always really liked, kept coming back to it and now it seems like the right colors (the old add its the color combo and the car is the jade green on a car for reference). That interior is just perfect and it goes with the green, plus its an all original look. The inter in the picture is a standard sedan, the inter of a sport sedan has all polished steel column covers and has a ring around the top of polished steel. In the interior I want to use hide on the brown and white with cloth on the pattern. I know a guy named Frank who will do the interior. I don't know any paint places, I want a nice paint job not a perfect show car job. If anyone knows any places that would be great I have a someone that will help with the body work now, I may paint the car myself first and strip it to get the body just about perfect with loads of money not spent. I also need a guy for epoxy and dash painting if anyone knows anyone.
  2. Also I bought the assembly manual, my car came with a "shock absorber unit" option does anyone know what that is or is it just the technical term for shock? Any advice for taking the dash out? Going to take out the front window tomorrow and get a better look. If the dash doesn't come out I am going to have to pick a colors pretty quick, so if anyone lives in phoenix and has a 60 impala white (with two tones or mono) or a fairly original green and original-ish interior I would like to see it.
  3. I'm taking the dash apart today, just got the steering column out things are looking less messy... I'm going to have the underside of the dash painted white so I can see under it, this simi black grease rust dust look is just not for me. Anyway I need transmission advice. I would like a six speed (four speed two overdrives) automatic, a five or six speed manual (with an overdrive or two) is fine to. I thought of using a four speed with a gearvenders... I have doubts about GV (it's adding another unit of electronics and gears that gets me, just seems like something more that could go wrong). I want a few extra gears to keep the mileage up and the engine RPMs down under normal conditions. No frame or body cutting, I'm ok with driveline shortening, something that requires little to no car modification. The big catch, I am dead set on having column shift, I'm putting original bench seats in it. The interior of this car needs to look more like a house, early 50's Packards ( the next project is a 53 Packard) and Catilacs have that look a couch, with a steering, and dash; so abosolty no floor shift. Just a reminder runing about 200 hp with 300 hp as a definite limit and will likely be pulling a small trailer a few times a year, keep in mind reliability I drive a half ton gmc truck it's always worked I want the same in my car.
  4. I am working on a 1960 Impala Sport Sudan (, I am going to have it striped with body and frame separate in a few months. I had this idea of getting the car acid bathed and then E coated (both the full dip). I want the car to last for 80 years and be driven to the grave in the thing. Well acid is a great idea and cost $$$$, except I can't find a place near or in Phoenix that does E-coating for the public. Which means it would have to be painted in primer (likely epoxy) and what could not be painted would be flash rusted bare metal. So I might as well get it blasted. The car also has rust mostly rear fenders, floor pans and, trunk pan. I'm a little scared about the blasting my cozen had it done on a 64 chevell with almost no rust and still gets paint spots from it, I want the paint to look good for a long time like 10 years. I was wandering if anyone knows an E-coating place for the car? Would acid be better or worse with line of sight paint? Is epoxy the way to go with blasting or self etching? (either way I'm getting someone that does it professionally to apply it) The car came with a 283 three on the tree, I am not to satisfied with the three speed: to small, it only has three gears, its probably going to brake if I made a mistake (I don't drive stick often so the likelihood of me ruining it is high and, it can't tow. I want a mostly 1960 impala with little 2014 additions, like AC, front wheel disk brakes and, some MPG. When I am done I want a daily diver (like my 1/2 ton 2004 gmc turn key, drive and, gas) I don't need a lot of power the engine going in is a 283 (different one) with some nice parts but MPG is the main factor. Figured i could get a six speed transmission and keep the RPM's low. There is a requirement that it must be column, rather I use the manual or put a automatic column shift no floor shifter (I think that car looks classier). I know it won't be an original transmission in the car, thats ok prefer automatic, it would help to have an overdrive and, has to be able to do light towing (I have camping plans and I'm a truck guy). I was looking into the Gear Vendors aftermarket kit with a four speed, don't know a thing about those, if it works as intended its the best thing since the wheel. Whats a good transmission for the car going to do light towing (maybe a few times a year), six speed, overdrive (3.32 rear axel like to drive 80 on open road and get 25mpg), must be column shift workable, preferably automatic and, fits the car well (remember I'm pushing 250 HP on a very modest V8 don't need a turbo 400 or Addison for a new desail). Hows the Gear Vendors? Whats a good transmission for it (four or five speed same requirements as before)? Transmission is a year or more away but I'm just throwing ideas around until I get a good one going.
  5. Thanks joe it's a lot of work, I will get one in a few days from my gramps shop. I wanna use a different head when I am putting it back or a grade 9 scerw.
  6. Now its a two door. These doors are hard to take apart, gonna try again later. They are also hard to remove most of the philips heads are frozen, definitely getting new bolts.
  7. I had to grind the upper A frame off (the bar that holds it to the frame technically) I have it stripped down to the cab but the picture will not load lots of work Is it still a four door impala if it has no doors?
  8. Picture time of the day That is the A frame from hall that is not removable, one bolt holds it in place. I had a jack on a wedge lift the car and could not remove it.
  9. Who here knows a place that will do an acid dip in Phoenix (or the closest place to)? Does anyone know any reason why this car should not be acid bathed? Just want to make sure. There is little I know about paint so it was thinking that I could get the final paint baked on after the acid bath so it is hard like my truck paint. Any thoughts? I am not frimilar with different paint types eathir.
  10. A few years ago I got this car (pictures at a later time) with my grandfather as my project car as family tradition is to get a project car. I fell in love with it: big back window, boat of a car, four door, long fins, unique, and chrome. This was somebody else's failed project. This car has gotten bigger as i see how much work and money it is, gave up on it for two years until i was ready. Rear end is completely done with checked out differential, engine removed, front suspension off and some other small things. The outcome: - fully functional - mechanically sound - no future problems ( I have a cozen who was lazy and had problems with his 67 chevell) - daily driver - mostly original - luxury car I was planing a rebuild, now seeing the car after two years it is now a restoration. I am going to use a mostly bare bone stock 283, three on the tree, ac (live in Phoenix 116 F today), front power disk brakes (drums on back), standard 14" wheels, leather interior, standard rear end, likely standard suspension(might swap out the ball joints in the front for high speed safety), painted white or close to the original cascade green (I think it was), side skirts. I want this to be a daily driver no need for speed, need for reliability and comfort. I plan to keep it almost original except for a few modern driving touches (disk brakes and ac). I want a car that runs better than factory and last 60 years or so when I am done, and will end up costing as much as a new car. No short cuts I'd rather shell out a little extra time and money than have problems. Right now I have just decided to go from rebuild to restoration. There is a lot of surface rust on the body and even though its the dessert I have decided I am striping it and will get the body and frame acid bathed and hard painted better than new. My uncle fixed up his wives 63 corvette from frame up and since then I want it done like that. It does not have to be show winning worthy I just want it done right. Depending on rust I may take out the floor board and replace the whole thing, and rear fenders panels.