Seafoam65

For passenger cars, 35 psi is usually the recommendation on radial tires, but published pressures are arrived at considering a smooth ride as a factor. I always have run my tires at 40 psi and don't ever let the tires get lower than that and I never have tire failures and have gotten as many as 75,000 miles out of my yokahama tires, which are the best tires out there in my opinion. Yokahamas never pull, never get out of round, never crack, and will outlast any other tire there is in terms of miles of use before they hit the treadwear indicators. Running your radials at 40 psi will help your gas mileage and will cut down on cornering wear.

The 401 in my 65 Riviera has never had any engine work other than a new timing chain and gear set. The engine has 61,000 original miles on it. The only premium I can buy in North Texas is 93 octane fuel with 10 percent alcohol content. The alcohol free gas for sale in North Texas is 87 octane only. I use that in my old cars designed to run on regular fuel. In the Riviera I use the 93 octane fuel with the timing set to original specs and the engine runs great with no pinging. The original Ram Air 3 400 engine in my 69 GTO absolutely would not run on 93 octane fuel without horrible spark knock, even with the timing retarded. What I did on that car is build a 455 Pontiac engine with 71 GTO 400 heads, making the compression 9.5 to 1. This engine is more powerful than the 10.75 to 1 original 400 and runs fine on 93 octane with no pinging. My 1970 Chevelle SS 396 also would not run on pump gas. I installed a 396 engine out of a 72 Chevelle SS and it runs great, lots of power, no pinging and I run alcohol free 87 octane regular in that car.

367.00 plus tax and shipping.........Makes me really love my battery topper

The problem with these is that the top of a modern battery does not look like tar. The tar top battery toppers actually look like an original tar top battery.

Yes, but the Corvette used a 24 series battery instead of a 27. You can buy a tar top battery topper for a 24 series battery but not a 27, as the the 27 is slightly longer. The 24 series tar topper is produced for the Corvette and GTO guys.

The originals were group 27 tar top Delco batteries with yellow caps with black delco letters on the caps. There were no stickers on the batteries, but as I recall the Delco name was molded into the plastic on the side of the battery. I believe you can spend a lot of money for a repro tar top battery that will boil acid everywhere and ruin your battery box..... but for 100's less you can buy a flat top 24 series battery from Oreilly's and put a tar top battery topper with yellow caps on it. These toppers have the Delco lettering on the caps, but for correctness you just take black paint and paint the raised letters on the caps black. With this setup you will never have acid corrosion to deal with and when you need a new battery you just swap the topper over to the new battery. It's a no brainer.

What I use on my 65 Riviera is a group 24, which allows me to use a correct appearing tar top battery topper. These toppers have yellow caps like the original batteries had. As Ed stated, the positive post needs to be next to the radiator.

To add insult to injury,some of the washer fluid for sale out there is nothing but colored water that freezes at 32 degrees. I have bought several bottles of the phony colored water at auto parts stores that freezes at 32 degrees.

If the button just recently fell off, it's got to be in the car somewhere.....find it and glue the old one back on. The metal backing is still tied to the seat....it should be easy to glue it back on.

It's not going to be a switch problem or wiring problem other than the bat cable connections. These items are not affected by engine temp and you state it always starts when the engine is cold. It is the battery, the starter or the battery cable connections.

I'm pretty sure that you have to remove the console from the car and flip it over to do the job you are trying to do. Since there are no visible screws holding on the metal section they would have to be located on the underside of the console. Try removing the rear ash tray and shine a flashlight in the hole and you will be able to tell if the fasteners are accessible through that hole. If not the console will have to come out.

There is a guy who advertises in the Riview magazine that claims he had Bilsteins made that fit early Rivieras and that he sells them.....they are pricey as I recall.

Just so you know........a battery that checks good on a load test can do what you describe as your problem. What actually happens is that there is an intermittent connection breakdown inside the battery between one of the posts and the plates. This doesn't happen where the problem is intermittent very often but it can and does happen sometimes. I've seen it in my car repair business maybe twelve times. This is dangerous because when they lose connection to the post internally they can arc at the post internally and cause the battery to explode. Again not common but I have seen it happen about five times over the years. Usually batteries that have this intermittent start symptom are old batteries........4 years old or older. Because of the explosion risk if I suspect it may be the battery I just go ahead and disconnect it and replace it because I don't want to be standing over the battery checking juice at the post when it could possibly explode in my face.

Bad springs will not cause the car to bounce too much, only shocks can cause that. The symptom of bad springs is incorrect ride height. Agree on the Bilsteins......the only way to go.

Make sure that you have clean tight connections at the battery posts. If there is no problem there, it is either the battery or the starter in all probability. If the battery is old, I recommend you just go ahead and change it out. If the battery is not very old, it is probably the starter. If it is the starter, most likely if you had somebody with you to help check it out when the problem happens, in all probability it will turn over when the starter is banged on with a hammer while the key is being held down. If banging on the starter makes it turn over you will know for certain that's what's wrong. If you have a helper with you when it happens, you can check to see if it's the battery by hooking a voltmeter up to the top of the battery posts and checking the voltage while the key is being held down when it won't start All that being said, the most likely cause is a bad starter.

I would just leave it loose......no glue

Problem solved!......good job Ed!

That looks pretty darn good........if I owned one of these cars I would stock up on that one from Amazon.

Also there is supposed to be a circle cut out that is centered on the air cleaner wing nut stud. I don't recall what the diameter of the circular cutout was. Perhaps someone else could chime in.

On my 65, I have the CARS insulation, I did not notch out the part over the compressor hub like the factory did, and so far it has never rubbed the pulley after ten years. I wish that somebody would make the correct insulation that has the hole over the center of the air cleaner and the notch over the A/C pulley.

The Lone Star Chapter of the Pontiac Oakland Club and the North Texas Oldsmobile Club will be hosting the first annual BOPC car show on Saturday October 28, at Gateway Classic Cars,1250 Mustang Dr., Grapevine, Tx. Entry fee will be 20.00 cash on day of show only (no preregistrations) Food and drink will be available for cash purchase. There will be lots of awards including many best ofs. We want to see lots of Rivieras there so please help spread the word. Here is the event flyer......

The Lone Star Chapter of the Pontiac Oakland Club and the North Texas Oldsmobile Club are hosting the first annual BOPC car show at Gateway Classic Cars, 1250 Mustang Dr., Grapevine, Tx. on Saturday October 28. Entry fee 20.00 cash on day of show only (no preregistrations). There will be food and drink available for cash purchase. Lots of awards are up for grabs, including many best ofs awards. Any year model Cadillac or Lasalle are welcome. We want to see lots of Caddys so please spread the word.....here is the flyer for the show......

The Lone Star Chapter of the Pontiac Oakland Club and the North Texas Oldsmobile Club are sponsoring the first annual BOPC Car Show at Gateway Classic Cars, located at 1250 Mustang Dr., Grapevine, Tx. Entry fee will be 20.00 cash on day of show only (no preregistrations) The North Texas Olds Club will have food and drink for cash purchase. There will lots of awards including many Best Of categories. We want to see lots of Oldsmobiles there so please spread the word........here is the event flyer....

The Lone Star Chapter of the Pontiac Oakland Club is hosting our first annual Buick Olds Pontiac Car Show on Saturday October 28 at Gateway Classic Cars, 1250 Mustang Dr., Grapevine, Tx. The show is open to all Buick, Olds, Pontiac and Cadillac automobiles regardless of year model. Entry fee will be 20.00 cash day of show only (no preregistrations) Food and drink will be available for purchase with cash. We would like to see lots of Buicks at this event, so please spread the word. Judging will be combination participant judging and point judging for special awards. Here is the flyer for the event

That has been bent by a jack.....this was straight when the car was built.