Seafoam65

I sold Interstate batteries for 36 years.......had them removed from my facility a year ago because they were all going bad in 12 months. Interstate is not the same company they used to be.....prices went way up and quality went way down. The best battery I have found that I sell now is the Super Start batteries that O'reilly auto parts sells. Put one of those in along with a battery topper from OPGI and it will look like a 1964 Delco battery. That's what I have in my Riviera.

Hang in there David......the problem with doing a frame-off on a Nova is that you would be driving a Nova when the project is finished instead of a rolling work of art by Bill Mitchell!

Thanks, David.......the two piece molding makes sense. Great pics! David if I were you i would put back the seam sealer.....it is there to keep water from running behind the molding and creating a constant pocket of water at the bottom that will cause an eventual rust out situation. Of course if you never intend for the car to ever get wet like I do with mine, I guess it wouldn't matter.

David, I think that I get the picture......I suspect that the weatherstrip will have a lot of glue on it and being 50 years old will tear when I pull it off. I think I'll order new roof rail weatherstrip and wait till it comes in to finish the job. I was shocked to discover that the windshield pillar molding was in the way of removing and installing the roof rail molding. A wham bam job turned out to be a pain in the arse that I wasn't expecting. I can't understand why they didn't make the weatherstrip molding a two piece affair, it would have been much more logical to do. Also, if it is all one piece, what is the purpose of the triangular trim splice in the upper front corner of the weatherstrip molding?

Ed, I assume you mean that once the weatherstrip molding is removed, I can remove the two screws and remove the pillar molding? It looks to me like the weatherstrip molding is a two piece affair that has a separate piece in the front of the vent window. Surely it is not that time consuming to remove that short piece of trim to get to the screws? What do you mean by EVERYTHING? It's hard to imagine that they would make it take a long time to swap out the windshield. One question I have is am I going to be able to get the weatherstrip out of the channel without tearing it up? It looks to be in nice shape although it is 50 years old.This car still has it's original windshield so none of this stuff has ever been removed before.

I am swapping out the right side front drip rail molding on my 65 Riviera for a nice piece without a dent in it, and I was able to mostly roll the old one off till I got to the front of the molding, when I discovered that it was tucked behind the A-pillar molding and that the A-pillar molding must be removed first. Can someone who has done this on one of these cars tell me what all is holding the A-pillar molding on? I can see that it appears to be tucked behind the roof rail weatherstrip molding so I assume that must be removed completely? Does the pillar molding have the conventional clips holding it on over the windshield like an A-body GM hardtop? This molding looks similar to the molding on my 69 GTO convertible which doesn't have any clips under it where it goes over the windshield glass. Can I remove the A-pillar molding without disturbing the fender molding that it butts into on the bottom end? Thanks in advance for your help.:mad:

The bedliner material is far superior to rubber undercoating both in appearance and durability, but unlike rubber undercoating, it must be applied over a pristine clean surface or you will have adhesion problems later. You can't spray it over old rubberized undercoating or it will peel on you a few months later. Another thing I like about the bedliner material is that is truly black, while rubberized undercoating is actually dark brown.

I'm glad to hear that the noise is getting better.....If it's quieting down that would indicate that it was something with the brake work. I wouldn't be surprised if it goes away completely in another hundred miles of driving.

In case anyone needs some, there is an amazing pair of front door panels on ebay right now that were removed from a 63 Riviera with crank windows 35 years ago and kept indoors. They are for the red interior but you could probably dye them a different color if need be. They look to be in mint condition.

I just met Pete Saturday and eyeballed his Riviera, and if you think the trunk looks good, you ought to see the exterior of the car! Unbelievably flawless paint , trim and bumpers. When he gets the interior done it will be a show stopper! Kudos for a job well done Pete!

Thanks to everyone for the pictures and advice.......Winston

thanks David.....I'll anxiously wait to see how it goes. I can't really do anything about taking mine off until I either get this piece of trim I bought on ebay fixed or find a better one for sale. Looking at the piece of trim I bought, it looks like they took a pick or something and forced the rear edge down and pried on it every 4 inches with the result of the inner edge having huge dents in it in six places. the part that you see easily on top is fine, but the surface that tucks under the bottom is a mess right now.

The guy wanted your car and he put it down first so when he asked to buy it you would have doubts about it's value! I'd have told him that after your previous comment, yeah I'll sell it to you for one million dollars and not a penny less.

Wow, the fingertip light steering is what I love about driving my Riviera the most......I hate the power steering on my late model cars where I feel like I'm engaging a Sumo Wrestler to turn my steering wheel. What I'd like to see is a box to make my late model cars have fingertip steering!

Gene I know the bottle opener works on an A-body car because the lower edge is exposed and the bottle opener catches that edge and pries up the molding, but on the Riviera there isn't anything for the bottle opener to grab onto.

David, the problem I'm having is that because the rear edge underneath is concealed, I don't see anyplace to get a screwdriver under the trim unless I drill a big hole in it first. How can you get a screwdriver between the molding and the metal of the car if the edge is not exposed?

Bernie.....I love your comment on the point judging......I had the car at a judged show last weekend and my Riviera and a 69 Barracuda were tied for first place in the 60's original class and the judges were going back and forth between the two cars looking to break the tie.....I saw the head judge point out my drip molding ding to the other judges and I came in second! That ding is the only piece of trim on the car that isn't perfectly straight since I installed my nos door edge guards.

I bought a supposed very nice one on ebay and it is all mangled on the bottom side from prying it off. I am going to try to get an expert on stainless repair to straighten it but I'm not sure that it can be done to my satisfaction. Still I need to know how you get the old ones off.....I don't see anything underneath to pry on.

If you can buy alcohol free fuel in your location by all means use it. The alcohol is hard on carburetors, fuel pumps and gas tanks. Where I live I have to drive 90 miles one way to purchase non alcohol fuel so it isn't really feasible for me to buy it. It is amazing how the nailhead Buicks will run on pump gas even with high compression, where a Chevy or Pontiac or Olds v-8 will ping like hell on the same fuel. My GTO has to use racing gas to stop the detonation.

I don't know if this topic has been discussed, but if it saves a life it is worth mentioning again.......If you are doing any welding or using a torch to heat up anything, DO NOT use Brake cleaner to clean the metal when prepping. Brake cleaner when exposed to flame creates a Poisonous Gas that will kill you deader than a doorknob. There have been many hobbyists killed just this way so as the Sarge used to say on Hill Street Blues.....Let's be careful out there! Another thing some hobbyists may not know is that putting a torch on the center of a wheel to torch off a wheel stud when the tire has air in it can cause the tire to explode, killing you instantly so do not do this! Lastly, NEVER EVER use a concrete block to hold a car up off the ground.....they can explode into powder in a micro second and drop the car on you.......always use heavy duty jack stands if you are going to get under a car! The life you save may be your own. Oh, one more thing.......never ever never ever and I mean never use an incandescent trouble light around an automobile. If you are under a car with one of them or under a hood and you have any sort of fuel leak, one drop of gas hitting a hot light bulb will create a fire similar to a cremation oven. Always use florescent or LED trouble lights when working on cars. Here in the Dallas area a few years ago a mechanic was killed and the entire car repair facility burned to the ground from using an incandescent trouble light.

The problem is I don't see anything I can pry on, because on the back side underneath the molding turns and goes up into a channel and you can't even see the back edge of the molding underneath, let alone pry on it.

My right rain gutter has a small ding in it that I would like to fix at some point, but I am puzzled how to remove it without damage. The rain gutter molding on the car is unlike others I have seen that pop off with a can opener in that the lower part of the piece is very wide and turns and goes back up into a ridge on the underside, so there is nothing to hook a can opener onto. The first person to help me with good advice on this will receive for free one of my patented "Clock Grabbers", a 19.95 value. All you have to pay is shipping and handling, what a deal!

:cool: If you act in the next 30 minutes, I'll sell you two "Clock Grabbers" for the incredibly low price of 29.95, just pay separate shipping and handling!

Pics please!

Being inspired by watching Shark Tank on TV, I am now selling this tool on line for 19.95!