Im4darush

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About Im4darush

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  • Birthday 02/04/1973

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  1. Tom, what you are saying could be possible as I found the clock issue after the tail light housing. Could have been coincidence I guess that it started working if the clock wire did not touch the housing at that particular time. In terms of the switch, I did turn it back and forth a few times, but no change. dwhite mentioned taking the dash pad off to inspect the switch and I gave that a try. Removed the 4 screws and just could not get the pad to budge. I have the original pad in close to perfect condition so I was very weary of handling the thing. Changing the gauge bulbs was on my to-do list so this would have helped if I could actually get it to come off. For those interested in changing the bulbs, there is really only one that you can reach with your hands through the fuse door. I dropped the steering column (2 screws - 5 mins) and was able to reach all but the 2 at the very top of the gauge housing.
  2. Interesting! My clams open and close no matter where the ignition key is. I do see a small relay mounted by the battery. Not sure if it is the one you are talking about though.
  3. I have been working on the car for a while, and it sat up on jacks with no battery. Last time I saw it work was a few months ago. But it did work.
  4. Man sometimes these old cars give you the worst head scratch moments.. I pulled the rear bumper on my 65 to replace the tail light bezels. Of course cleaning and painting was in order so all the bulb housing came out. Put everything back together and all seemed well. Tail lights look fantastic when bright and clean. Walk around to turn the lights off and notice the dash lights are not on. I know they worked before! Long story short...bad ground at one of the tail light bulbs. Go figure! But it does not end there. Turn the lighs on, dash lights come on and BAM few seconds later the fuse blows. Every time. Long story short....no bulb in the clock and the wire inside the housing was free to move around and touch the housing. Put a bulb in and no more blowing fuses. These cars sure are delicate when it comes to grounding. There is one thing however that is still not quite right. I remember that my headlight switch would dim the dash lights when you turn the knob. So it did work at one point. Now however, it will not. When I turn the knob just past it's brightest point, it just turns the dash lights off. Could the few times I blew that panel fuse have damaged the switch?
  5. Switch is fine, tilt cable is fine. Blue wire flashes coming out of the switch. I traced it all the way to where the wire harness goes inside the passenger fender (by the horn). There was a bad connection there somewhere. When I was looking for the blue wire in that location it started flashing. I moved it around as much as I could and could not make it stop. Will leave it be for now and monitor to see if it stops again. At least I know where the issue is. Thanks for letting me know it was the blue wire coming out of the switch!! That saved me some time.
  6. I do not, but thank you for the info!! I also have a tilt column so will look into that as well.
  7. Searched and read all the threads and am very familiar with the ground issues these cars have as I just replaced the rear tail light bezels and lost my dash lights due to a bad ground connection on one of the bulbs...go figure. Anyway, all my park lights are operational and all my turn signals work fine EXCEPT for the passenger front. The passenger rear blinks fine but the front has no flashing even though that bulb comes on when the park lights are turned on. There is a new 1157 bulb in there that I pulled out and put a test light on the bulb housing making sure to ground the light to the housing. Have power when the park lights are on (makes sense as they work) but nothing when the turn signal is turned on. And again, all other signals work fine! Anyone seen something like this before? And another weird thing I noticed...my brake lights only work when the ignition is on. Ive never owned a pre 69 GM product so the 65 riv is my first. Is this as-designed for 65?
  8. What makes this even more fun on my car is that my car's heater core is bypassed. Here in FL we don't want any heat coming close to the cabin especially when the AC is on. And in addition to that, my car has the throttling valve update kit on the AC so trying to figure out where these hoses should go NOW is fun to say the least. I had a few lose hoses laying around and hooked up each one to the vacuum canister. One of them sends air through the vents when I turn the AC on. This is a step in the right direction as AC is what we need around here. Issue is when I put the lever to recirculate, I get nothing out of the vents and hear a hissing behind the AC controls. So its sucking air back there. Where is the 'outside/recirculated' diaphragm located in the car? Is it the one mounted just behind the passenger valve cover? I can feel the diaphragm that is under the blower but cant feel any vac hose nipples on it anywhere.
  9. On my 65 riv with A/C I get nothing coming out of the vents when I turn on the air conditioner. I can hear the blower motor turn on, but no air from the vents. The AC compressor turns on. When I turn the heater on, then I get air from the dash vents. I assume since the controls are separate for the heater and AC, air should be coming from the dash vents without turning on the heat? I have manifold vacuum at the canister on the passenger fender with one vac line connected to it. I also have two vacuum lines that have been plugged by the PO that are just affixed next to the vac canister. If anyone has a diagram of where these vac lines should be connected, or if someone could just let me know, I would really appreciate it. The vacuum canister only has 2 nipples on it. One for manifold vac, and one other, though I do see another hole next to it so I am not sure if a second nipple has broken off. Any info you could offer would be great.
  10. Saw the 4 holes back there but could not find the screws. What kind of screws are back there? Phillips?
  11. Replacing the steering wheel on my 65 and can't figure out how the horn bar comes off. This is a standard plastic wheel. Does it just pull off? Don't want to break anything.
  12. Don't have this issue with the original AFB on my 65, and the throttle shaft does not move enough to change the idle. When I say I moved it with my finger, I mean there was a significant amount of play in the secondary shaft. This I believe is a major flaw with the Ebrock.