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About Blackpack

  • Birthday 09/18/1960

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  1. These are all great suggestions. Thanks!
  2. I recently had the front bumper on my 48 Buick rechromed including the mustache. The old black paint where it reads Buick Eight was stripped out before re-chrome. My usual body/oath not man was not comfortable with re-painting the flat black into the recessed letters. Can I do this myself? Is there a technique to do it so it looks good? Thanks
  3. Thanks Joe, I inspected the wiring behind the dash last night and it all looks like it's in pretty good condition. It has the original cloth insulation, but I believe it has been replaced some time ago. There are little white numbered tags on each wire. I have not positively isolated the wire that is causing the problem. I do not see any wire that is bare. Someone has hooked up a toggle switch using a modern day wire with plastic insulation, but that wire does not seem to be the culprit. I just know that it doesn't take much bumping of the wires to make the fuel gauge peg out. Nothing seems to be sparking or getting hot though. I do have a fire extinguisher and a quick disconnect on the negative battery post though. The wiring under the hood looks pretty worn. Most of the cloth insulation on the wire leading from the firewall to the coil has come off leaving the secondary insulation exposed. I think I will replace that sooner than later
  4. Hi Bernie, good to hear from you. Yes, it is the same car that was shaking. After three months, a new clutch and rear end and a complete new gear box, we discovered the problem. The mechanic that replaced the clutch just before I bought the car did not tighten the bell housing bolts and all the lower bolts fell out in transport, causing the bell housing to separate from the motor and putting the spline in a bind. Added two new bell housing bolts and it's been fine ever since
  5. UPDATE: I think I may have found the problem. I noticed that my gas gauge was pegged on full, but every once in awhile it would start bouncing wildly from half to full. When it did this, the amp meter would go all the way over to discharge. I reached behind the dash and as I touched the wires, the gas gauge would go to half and stay there and the amp meter would go to the middle. After getting everything stabilized I took it for a 5 mile drive and it ran great! So now my question is, if I had a short, would that fry my condenser?
  6. Thank you for the responses. Pete and Beemon, yes I am still running a six volt system. The first condenser was from Bobs Automobilia and honestly, I didn't pay attention to the brand. I also bought a new coil from them at the same time. The condenser I just put on was from NAPA. I don't think there was a ballaster resister on a 48, so I would have to answer no to that.
  7. I have been trying to narrow down a problem I have been having with my motor running badly and then not running. Twice! The first time I had this problem was a couple of months ago. I went out to start the car and it would not start at all. It had run great just the day before. I first tried replacing the electric fuel pump and that made no change. Then I replaced the coil, cap, rotor. No change. Then I replaced the condenser and that did it! Car ran great for a couple of weeks and then I had the same problem. I changed the plugs. No change. Then I replaced the condenser again and it fired up and ran smoothly. I took the car out and got two miles down the road and the amp meter was going a little crazy and the the car started cutting out. I had to turn my lights on and they were real dim. Then they would get bright for a secon. All the time, the amp meter continued to go from normal to discharge and the motor kept going out and eventually quit. It started right back up and I limped home. The car fires up and runs smooth right now, but I'm afraid to drive it. My question is...does this sound like a symptom of a bad voltage regulator? If the voltage regulator is bad, could it be frying my condendors? Thanks!
  8. Stunning Black Super convertible in amazing condition. I am looking at parting with my beautiful Buick convertible. It is a true gem, but I have a new project that will require room and resources to complete. I purchased this car in February of 2015 and have enjoyed it immensely. I purchased this car from a classic auto dealer who's client was in California. The unverified story is that the car spent it's entire life in California and was in a private collection for many years. The car does sport a grill badge from the first ever Buick Chapter in LA, so the story seems to be legit. The car is in amazing shape and looks like it's been in a time capsule for almost 70 years. Since owning this car, I have had the gearbox completely rebuilt and a new clutch installed. The top was freshened up last year as well as the interior chrome and outside stainless. The Bias Ply tires are brand new and have about 10 miles on them. Everything works except the radio, which comes on, but does not pick up stations. The interior is in beautiful condition and the car comes with two boots. A vinyl boot for everyday driving and a show boot that matches the top. I had the car professionally inspected when I bought the car and have attached the report, which shows a lot of pictures. If you are interested, please email me at erbleding@aol.com Asking price is $49,900.00. I am just south of Indianapolis and inspections are welcomed and encouraged. I may also be contacted at 317-223-1379 should you have questions Buick report.pdf
  9. Thank you very much. It's strange that the engine serial number was used on the title rather than the chassis serial number
  10. I am trying to determine if Buick serial numbers were supposed to match on both the engine and cowl plate. I am looking on the right side of the motor and only find one set of numbers that are stamped on the block and that does not match the data plate on the cowl. I thought I remembered reading that they did not necessarily match. I also read that the engine serial number should be on a raised tag, and under the valve cover, but I sure don't see it. Only the number I see is stamped on the block. I'm selling my car and the interested party wants to know if they Match. Data plate reads 24823663. Number stamped on the block is 50429475, but I think that is the foundry number. Please help
  11. The measurements that I stated above were with the car sitting on the ground. However, the mechanic told me the coil spring was skewed and may have been looking with the car in the air. Another thing to check. As far as the size of the wheels go...I only learned that two of the rims were 1" narrower when I had new tires installed. Otherwise, they all look identical and you can't really tell with the tires mounted. I did have wider tires than what was called for put on the car, but they were the same size that were previously put on the car
  12. These are good suggestions. I'm pretty sure the body mount busings need attention, but I will check the bar bushings as well. The coil springs are not setting straight either
  13. My story starts when I developed a severe shaking in the front end of my 48 Super convertible. Upon looking at the tires, I noticed that all 4 tires were wearing unevenly with the inside tread going bald. I decided to have the alignment checked and the right front was way out of adjustment. With that problem fixed, I ordered new tires for the car and soon discovered a couple of new issues. For some reason, the car had 5.5" wide rims on the left front and right rear and 6.5" wide rims on the right front and left rear. I instructed the technician to put both 5.5" rims on the front and the 6.5" rims on the rear. We we did that, another issue arose. The right rear tire clears the fender skirt by only 1/4" and the left rear tire clears by a good 2". My questions are, how could the axle get shifted this far to the right and is there an adjustment to move it back to center without pounding on the axle? Thank you
  14. Hi guys. I need a little help. My 48 Buick Super developed a loud noise from the exhaust manifold. I determined that the gasket was leaking. The car was also starting to stall quite a bit. Anyway, I purchased copper replacement gaskets for both the intake and exhaust manifolds. The old gasket had pretty much burnt away and was in bad shape. I made sure to clean both mating surfaces before applying the new gasket. In the intake ports, there were collars that went inside. When I removed the manifold, they all fell on the floor. I only found three of these and put one in the forward, rear, and one center port. I replaced the manifolds and fired her up. It was nice and quiet, but the engine races on start up and then quickly slows to a very low idle and backfires through the carburetor and then dies. I can't even keep it running by feathering the pedal. It just fizzes out. I then tried adjusting the float needles on the carb. One of them had been turned .5 turns and the other was 2.5 turns. I lightly seated the screws and then backed them out 1.75 turns. I still have the same problem. Question do all the intake ports need to have a collar inserted. What could be causing my new problem? Thanks in advance
  15. Thanks to everyone. This is great information and I'm glad I asked
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