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Everything posted by 1951Olds88

  1. @rsd9699 @junkyardjeff Thanks for your updates, unfortunately I have lost contact with the person requiring the information. If I find his phone number I will forward your messages Stefan
  2. Thanks again for this info, I am printing it out and sending to to Mr. Eller Stefan
  3. Thanks for the quick reply, I will share this with the friend Stefan
  4. I will pass this one, so since it is a 303 and probably has the generator on the driver side, should the generator belt be extended with an idler and a longer belt to drive the pump? Thnaks for the quick reply
  5. For a non-computer literate acquaintance, I have a question about adding power steering to a 1951 Oldsmobile 98. The gentleman had found a pump and a suitable steering box, but wants to know how best to install the pump and drive it. Should it be driven off the generator belt or off the waterpump belt. Does he need to add an idler, I presume to increase the amount of belt on the pulley. Thanks in advance for any suggestions
  6. For a non-computer literate acquaintance, I have a question about adding power steering to a 1951 Oldsmobile 98. The gentleman had found a pump and a suitable steering box, but wants to know how best to install the pump and drive it. Should it be driven off the generator belt or off the waterpump belt. Does he need to add an idler, I presume to increase the amount of belt on the pulley. Thanks in advance for any suggestions
  7. I was prompted to look on Ebay, originally for the parts books with pictures but then I thought try for the part. Well, I did find the same part for sale on Ebay and the company (RPM Motorsports) took a look and confirmed that there is a difference between the unrebuilt part and the part that I received back. I have asked for a picture to send to the rebuilder (but not received yet). Still, given that I am not buying the part, they have been very helpful, so if the non-customer service is this good, I expect their customer service is good too. The rebuilder specialist was already off for Independence Day when I called yesterday, So I have to wait until Monday to discuss remediation. But I am happy that we are progressing.
  8. Dan, Could you PM me or email me. The rebuilt steering gear box and shaft came back looking great, however the shop is having a problem re-installing it. I have called with your 800 # but the person to whom I spoke was not really able to help. Do you have an "expert" that could talk to the mechanic at the shop to help, please? Stefan
  9. I was hoping to be close to driving my baby again very soon, but ran into a major problem. There seems to be an issue with the rebuild or re-installation of my steering gear box and shaft. Can anyone help, PLEASE? Brief description below, more details in the Oldsmobile - Technical forum Thanks in advance Stefan
  10. Please, I need help from someone amongst the many knowledgeable people on this forum. I recently had my steering gear box (and the shaft) removed and sent away for rebuild. It was returned a week ago and my local shop started to try to re-install it. However, something does not seem to fit. The whole assembly seems to have 3 main parts, the gear box itself, a sleeve which connects to the steering column and the shaft which runs up the steering column and connects to the steering wheel. The sleeve (about 10"?) long connects somehow to the Hydramatic shift lever. According to the shop, it seems that the bushing at the end of sleeve is preventing a proper connection between the gear shift part in the steering column and the part in the sleeve. Cn anyone give us advice about this re-installation, perhaps the shop is not doing it right. Luckily at this point they don't want to force anything. Or could it be that the rebuilder somehow mixed things up (unlikely since I did use what seems to be the country's premier company for rebuilding steering gear boxes, but they are human too). For example is anyone aware of differences in the steering gear assembly between my 1951 88-A and a Super 88, or between a 1951 88-A and the 1950 model (my car was built very early in 1951 and seems to have some 1950 parts here and there). Or could it even be that the rebuilder rebuilt my part for a manual gearbox rather than the Hydramatic? Please, please, please anyone that has suggestions please reply to this post OR PM me. Thanks in advance Stefan
  11. Finally, progress; last weekend I managed to complete the rewiring. In the end I actually connected, disconnected then reconnected the under-dash wiring more than once, due to not routing the overall harness correctly. My own fault too, as I had taken pictures of the old wiring, but forgot to look at them when placing the new harness. To simplify the job, I did cheat a little on the harness for the rear wiring. After ordering and receiving the rear wiring harness, I found that it runs underneath the headliner to the trunk area. What I could see at the dashboard and in the trunk seemed in pretty good condition. It was just where some of the wires went through a grommet, out of the trunk that the wiring deteriorated. Coincidentally, all but one of these 'exterior' wires had connectors in trunk. So I ordered a set of pigtails only, as well as some spare wire and only replaced what was in poor condition. this means I have a full rear wiring harness available for a 1950/1951 88 4 door sedan, with backup lights. This will appear shortly in the AACA Oldsmobile buy/sell forum, along with other pieces surplus to the restoration. One of the surplus pieces will be the non-functioning radio, which has been replaced by a functioning one that I found on Ebay. The EBay one was actually for an S88, based on the faceplate, but everything else is the same. So after switching faceplates it installed easily. meanwhile I did find another full set of hood/trunk letters, which I decided to purchase as insurance. I did earlier indicate that I had found replacements for all my missing letters, but I also had a couple of damaged ones. As the pins on the back seem to snap off easily I decide having an insurance set is probably a good idea, especially if I capitulate and have the car repainted. Removing the letters for the repainting definitely runs the risk of damaging the existing letters. And otherwise, these too may appear on the Buy/Sell forum at some time in the future. While I was doing the rewiring, I also tackled a couple of other mini projects. One concerned removing the back bumper, so I could reach the license plate lights. After the removal I discovered that the rubber splash guard inside had hardened and crumbled to the touch. After searching the Internet, I found a company called Zoro, who have strips of rubber 2" wide in different thicknesses. The thinnest, 1/8", was just right and I ordered a fair bit there. One thing I discovered, the strip are not just available in different thicknesses, but also different stiffness too. For those doing the same kind of restoration, let me suggest that in most cases the least stiff version is probably the most suitable. This Memorial Day weekend I will be getting the car ready for the heavy work, that I cannot do myself. I will first return the front bench seat to its place in the car. Its removal was absolutely required to do the under dash wiring. I am also going to clean the engine compartment and suspension area, in preparation for the removal and refurbishment of the steering gear box and other underbody parts. I am going to use a method suggested, I believe somewhere in the AACA forums, using Purple Power, hot water and an aircraft high pressure air cleaning tool. I also hope to do more work on the paint, firstly wet sanding the places where I touched up the worst of the paint scars. I will then carefully polish up the sanded areas and then the whole body. For this I am using a suggestion at Autogeek.com for old cars. This recommendation was to use Meguiars #7, putting a generous layer on the car and then leaving it for 24 hours before removing. Apparently the formula for this product is older than my car and very suitable for the paint type used at the time of my car. This should be done three times, and then followed by the usual Carnuba wax top layer. I have already done one #7 treatment, so that the paint would be protected slightly before the sanding. Hopefully I can use the long weekend to complete the sanding and two remaining treatments before I send the car to the shop. Then when it returns in driveable condition, I will put on the wax layer, which should last most of the summer. Can't wait to be back on the road!!
  12. Yes, at one point I wondered if I had bitten off more than I could chew, but as you will see below, I am close to being back on the road
  13. Thanks from the car for the compliment
  14. Thanks for the suggestion, but I hope with my new wiring, including a 00 gauge ground strap and a 0 gauge starter cable my intermittent starting problems are behind me. However, due to the restoration activities I have not had a chance to find out. As you can see below, I am close to being on the road again, so keep your fingers crossed for me, please.
  15. After a few quite weeks, I have started working seriously on the car again. Part of the delay was due to surgery and an unexpected two week stay in the hospital, followed by the necessary convalescence. But I had also been waiting for the parts required for the main job on the car, firstly the rebuilt carburetor and secondly the new wiring harness. Both have arrived, all the little extras like grommets, etc., have arrived from Fusick and other suppliers. I started on an easy bit, replacing the wiring for headlights, parking and turn lights. This looked easy as the wires were not part of the main harness but joined at two connectors under the hood. The headlights were relatively easy, especially after removing the large sheet metal plate in front of the radiator. However, the spring in one of the holders for the parking/turn light bulbs had completely disintegrated. I could not find a replacement holder in my restoration catalogs, so I ending up rebuilding the old one using a spring from a more modern bulb holder. I also needed to replace the door check link on the drivers side. This proved to be a bit more of an adventure as the bolt holding the old, broken link had rusted solid. No amount of penetrating oil would loosen it and I finally had to use a Dremel reciprocating saw to remove the head and then use a Speedout (which worked very well) to remove the rest of the offending bolt. Ended up taking almost a whole day for this job, instead of the expected hour, but it is done. Another thing that I wanted to do was replace my hub caps. While the car is a 51, it was built very early in January and the factory was probably using up 1950 parts. So the car came with 1950 style hubcaps. While probably original (but I don't know for sure), I knew that in shows a knowledgeable judge might notice the difference, and even though I could explain it, it could be a hassle. And as I prefer the dog dish hubcaps anyway, especially when teamed with the trim rings, the car has been 're-shoed'.
  16. Thanks folks, as ever the members of this forum come through with useful information. BTW junk yard or used parts, who cares!
  17. I have read before about the splashes of paint that were dabbed on key items under the hood, but what is this surprise inside my (back) bumper? Due to aging and flaking of the inside layer I am not sure what the first letter was, but what you can see there is ?har. The ? could be C (Char?), or G or O. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance Stefan
  18. Keith, Thanks again Stefan
  19. Thanks Keith, Yes Fusick do have these in Delco wires, although they are now very dark grey, rather than true black. And not braided either. Stefan
  20. Thanks for this update, I have replied in the thread of your PMs
  21. After a relatively quiet time, I have taken the next step, crossed the Rubicon so to speak, that is 'dry-docked' the car. I started with removal of the Carter carburetor which was shipped off for rebuild. I also sent of my dash clock, to get it running again. In the meanwhile I managed to find an idler arm on Ebay at slightly less than in the restorer parts catalogs, as well as picking up a Fisher body catalog, which should help with some of the work on the body that is not covered in the shop manual. I also have some nice looking dog dish hubcaps to replace the smooth (1950?) hubcaps currently on it. Baby steps at the moment, but the next thing will be starting on the wiring harness when the new one arrives.
  22. My car will be off the road for 2-3 months and for some of the work I will be lifting it onto a couple of jack stands. However, due to the extended period, I thought it might be a good idea to relieve the tires and set the car on 4 jack stands, totally off all tires, for the duration. If I do that, what would be the best location for the jack stands? Once again my thanks in advance to all the clever blokes in this forum Stefan
  23. Thanks again Charles, once again you come through with useful information. After researching Delco-Packard 440 wires, I see that they are NOT braided, correct? Stefan
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