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About Blayze

  • Birthday 10/03/1996

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  1. Well at least she was able to play in the snow for a bit when I needed to. And the four-wheel works wonders through snow and slush. In some time shortly, I'll have to pull the carb off and clean it up properly (engine runs rich and tends to flood out when it's put into gear). After that is cleaning up the top and interior and she should be pretty good after that. Next project on the line is my late father's 1973 BMW model 2002. I'll be making a thread in the euro car section of the forum when I get started.
  2. As of yesterday, here she is on the road at last. Come spring I'll pull her off to clean up interior work.
  3. I know it's been a while since I last updated on here, but here's the news. The title was transferred, and then immediately sent out for corrections (it came in titled aa a trailer). Two weeks later, it was sent back out (still... titled as a trailer). Got it in corrected, this time, around beginning of January. Sent her out to have the glass put in the rear quarters of the top and swapped the lift gate for a good one. New tires and in a few days, mirrors.
  4. Well, with some help from the guys over in the ford forum, the carb's vacuum issues seem to be sorted out. Gauges are reading true, and the horn button now works. Just waiting on the updated title to come in for the final bits.
  5. Well I feel dumb. I tried to move the vac advance to the hiding port (under the fuel pot) and plugged the other one up. Fired right up without the slightest of hesitation. No back fires, no stalls, and no rough idle. Thanks is for all the help though guys!
  6. Thanks Matt. Still runs a little rough though. I think the springs on the jet screws are stopping them from closing just enough (back fires when I tap the throttle to I'm assuming it's running rich from that or has a major vacuum leak stopping the air from getting in properly). I'm gonna try and take them out to see if setting them in closer is gonna be better. It seems to idle pretty low as well but I need a temporary tac to see how fast it spins at idle.
  7. I also forgot about the little vac port under the accelerator pump
  8. Kinda made a choke stove (I think) by running some steel line into the pre-heater shroud (pre-heater dosen't work anyway)
  9. Thanks for your help guys. I'm going to try to fab up a choke stove and see if that'll work better (otherwise, I found an adapter kit to make it into a manual choke). I'll sum up what happened up to this moment for you (you might cringe). Grabbed a carb from a junkyard on the sole reasoning that it was the only one I found that was a 2bbl that fit the bolt measurements to-a-tee. It fit, however, the gooseneck pushed the accelerator lever (the Holley 2210 has the lever on the side so this wouldn't happen) causing the truck to go full tilt. I ground down the lever arm so it would fit better and moved the hook to the back side of the set arm (on the butterfly mechanism by the throttle cable). Now you might've found a couple sins, but trust me... it gets worse. Now, it's a good thing (is it though?) that jeep was the bastard child of ford and chevy, because the pressure valve (from the driver-side valve cover) plumbs directly into the jeep aircleaner housing (like the 80s impalas). In short, it runs, but not well. It'll idle fine but it backfires on warmup, and starves itself on startup. If I drop it into gear, the slight drop of rpms stalls it without a little coaxing. I'll get more pics and a diagram soon.
  10. So I have an international scout 2. But when I picked it up, there was no carb. I spent a few hours at a junkyard and pulled one off of a 70s ford pickup (small v8 2wd auto, dont remember much else). The only markings on the carb are the "motorcraft" logo and the raised number "10". In short, 15 year-old me grabbed the first carb that bolted up, and now 22 year-old me needs help with some vacuum port connections and the choke's temp tube. Here's what I got Open vac port above the fuel intake (pic 1) Open vac port below aircleaner housing (bypasses filter, pic 2) And a large pledged vac port near the manifold (also pic 2. Although, if it's for the power booster, then mine comes directly from the manifold) Choke temp tube (I think?, pic 3 screwdriver pointed to it) Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys.
  11. Just fixed the ammeter gauge and alternator wiring (I originally put a power wire from the battery to the fuse box not realizing it should pass through the ammeter and alternator first.) so now it's on to double checking my temp/press./fuel gauge fuse and wiring connections. After that is tires, bumpers, mirrors, and hopefully an inspection. Come spring I'll take the top back off to clean up and properly paint and upholster.
  12. Well, my brother and I spent a couple hours getting the top from my grandfather's garage and bringing it back here. And my lovely lady helped with mounting it. Getting close. Also, the shifter is working clean and smooth now.
  13. So paint is done... but now there's another problem. I was working on welding my seat risers back together, when I decided to hook up the shifter lever (I wanted to install that before the seats anyway). everything buttoned up just fine until I attempted to shift it into gear. The lever refused to move at first, but with just a little added pressure the linkage bent and broke. I've noticed that it is quite harder to put the trans in reverse than it is any other gear (moving the selector on the trans that is. engagement itself is fine). Could this be the new neutral safety switch being installed to tightly? should I try a washer or spacer of sorts? As a side mention, when reverse is selected, my reverse lights turn on and then blink off in just a second. I suspected a melted wire or incorrect fuse was the culprit but now I have suspicions of the switch. All help is appreciated.
  14. Getting ready to clear coat today (hopefully) although, as a side note, if anyone has extra mirrors (double mount/ford style) I'd trade you some windows for them. Or just give me a price
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