Stamm

I am guessing a weak spring. What do you do for a stronger one?

Thanks. That was my thinking also, but wanted some other opinions. Have a show I want to attend and then some planned vacation before I can proceed. Will let you know the results when I can

Could I tell if it is the bearing by just removing the trans top and trying to wiggle the shaft?

Could you give me a call, need some help. Dave. 231-838-1933

Please give me a call 231-838-1933, Dave

I think I have a grill shell. If interested call me at 231-838-1933 dave

Does anyone know what the fix might be?

This is my first time using the forum. How did you use the email? Any other tutorial help would be appreciated. jim

Need left front shock and lower rumble step

Well, this situation gets more interesting as I keep checking. Got the new copper plug wires and installed them. No improvement! But as I put my timing lite on each plug wire to check firing, I again notice 3 is not steady and 8 not at all, as before? As I am fussing with the wires I notice sometimes 8 will fire. As I keep fussing around I find that if I push on the dist towards the block, it fires just fine. There must be something wrong in the dist. Take off the cap for a closer inspection, see nothing wrong. However i notice that the points rub has stopped EXACTLY ON A HIGH POINT. something sometimes difficult to get to happen. So I thought since I have the perfect opportunity, why not check the points. They were a sloppy 20. Tightened them up to a tight 20. Seeing nothing wrong, I put the cap back on and started the car. All plugs now firing perfect, and when pushing on the dist, it makes no difference. Conclusion- the small amount of wear in the shaft allowed me to push the points closer so they were able to close and allow the coil to function. Wires 3 & 8 are on the side of the cap away from the block, so this made since to me. As luck would have it, I was the victim of a perfect storm. That happened at the same time the float failed. So now I have new plugs, wires and coil, that I didn’t need. Anyway, it now runs much better, not too bad up to about 40, then it hesitates some. Pulling out the choke helps some. Will keep playing with the carb adjustment. FYI, it is a 50 series cabriolet. With the right carb, it ought to run as good as my 8 cyl packards. Smooth. If I have to flip the intake for a down draft, anybody with any experience doing this? What carb did you use to facilitate hooking up the linkage? my thanks to all who tried to help jim

Done that, no leak. Remember , it ran ok prior to the float change jim

1934 packard left front shock and lower rumble step wanted

One positive thing about this adventure, I have become extremely efficient at removing a carb! The tubes have been replaced and look like new. I somehow have to determine ,for sure, is it carb or elec. the timing lite on each plug wire at one time indicated they were all firing perfect. The next time i did it, no 3 was not consistent, and 8 wasn’t firing at all. Changed plugs with the same result. So thought maybe it was the carbon fiber wires and ordered new copper ones. Waiting. remember it ran ok for the last 3 years, until I changed the float. It misses and runs poorly at all rpm’s, so I am thinking elec?. The dist cap looks new. Thanks for all the advice jim

I’ll pull it off today and check it out, thanks jim

Thinking about this further, as long as the opening to the exhaust pipe is sealed, the condition of he tube you are referring to shouldn’t matter, should it?

Good thought. The modification was done when I bought the car, so never checked. I had it repaired on the last 32 I restored a few years back, as it was bad. I know it can be a problem. Will check it out, thanks.

This is my first time at this. When I first get in it says I have 9 reply’s, but I only see 4 ?? Also, what is (add tag)

Rod- can run it at high rpm in the garage and it doesn’t run out of fuel. Since there is some miss at all speeds I am wondering know if it could be electric. Will see after new plug wires installed.

Can run it at high rpm in the garage and it does not run out of fuel

There is no tube. It is plugged at both ends. The car ran fine until I replaced the float. Took the carb apart again to make sure all 6 jets are open. Checked plug firing again with my timing lite and found that 3&8 are. Not firing consistently. Question the plug wires although they look new. They are however carbon fiber. Ordered a new set of copper ones .should get them mon or tues and will see if it makes any diff.

It has been removed and plugged. Odd thing is, I can run the car in the garage from idle to 45 mph (per rpm), and it is not too bad, slight miss, but when I take it on the road, it immediately goes bad and I am not sure I will get back. Have put my timing lite on each plug wire to view firing and none miss a beat, so I’m sure it is not elec. your thoughts? jim

That’s where I’m at.ran good before I changed float,which was sinking and overflowing. That was the only change, and now it runs so poorly I can’t drive it??

Need a shock for the left front for a 34 packard

Anyone know the fluid level for a marvel carb for a 32 Buick. Changed the float and now it runs terrible