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Thanks for all replies, as suggested here I posted on the General discussion forum and somebody there Identified them as 34/35 Plymouth. Roger

thank you for your help, much appreciated.

Hi to all here, I have a pair of lights fitted to my "25 Stude EPK that are not original, can anyone please tell me what they are from, as I would like to sell them? They measure about 8.5 inches across the face and the same in depth and they have Tiltray" on the bottom of the lens? It was suggested they might be Chevy? Thanks for in advance for any help/info. Regards Roger McDonnell Brisbane Australia

Hi to all here, I have a pair of lights fitted to my "25 Stude EPK that are not original, can anyone please tell me what they are from, as I would like to sell them? They measure about 8.5 inches across the face and the same in depth and they have Tiltray" on the bottom of the lens? It was suggested they might be Chevy? Thanks for in advance for any help/info. Regards Roger McDonnell Brisbane Australia

Hi to all here, I have a pair of lights fitted to my "25 Stude EPK that are not original, can anyone please tell me what they are from, as I would like to sell them? They measure about 8.5 inches across the face and the same in depth. I have since obtained a pair of original lights that I will fit back on, to make this survivor 100 % original, working and complete and for sale in the near future. Thanks for in advance for any help/info. Regards Roger McDonnell Brisbane Australia pic3.html pic2.html pic1.html

Thanks for your follow up Robert, yes Scott was able to help me out. I am sure other rarities with be required along the way and I will run that by you next time, thanks again. Roger

Hello to all here, I have read through a lot of posts in the search fields and there are many thoughts and posts on this subject about "torque values and bolt categories" for the early 20"s cars. Can anyone please recommend a suitable torque value for the Big 6 7/16" head bolts/studs ? I don't want to pull through and destroy a good thread in the block with too high a "listed torque value", for a modern Grade 8 stud, that this old machine didn't have. What is an acceptable lower value I can use ? Thanks in advance for any help here. Roger Brisbane, Australia

Hi Martin, from your photo I cant see the position of the crack, but in some cases cast machinery is repairable using the "thread stitching technique". Here is a link on Youtube showing that method, its not difficult and could be a possible solution to you problem if you cant get a replacement or its too cost prohibitive, (due to your country). I hope this is helpful and good luck with your project. Roger Brisbane Australia ► 9:02 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4ZaKk

Thanks for your thoughts RBK, I have bought the valves from Scott and they should arrive in the mail here, in the next few days. Roger

Hi to all here, can you please tell me where on the Big 6 engine is there provision for the crankcase breather/ ventilation. My Big 6 leaks oil badly, there is more oil under it than in it. Slight exaggeration, but not far from the truth. I have found that at the front and back of the engine, where #1 and # 6 cylinder walls meet the cast section for the valve adjustments and cover plates, there is a slot that is sealed with (probably asbestos) material/ gasket and held in place with a metal strip. This seems to act like a sponge and draw oil (probably with the aid of crankcase compression) and seep out like a slow eruption from a volcano. Is this area designed to help vent the build up of bypass compression? I want to seal it up to stop the oil leaks but don't want to inhibit any gas build up/venting, will this create a bigger monster? I see on the RHS of the engine between 2 of the cylinders there is a 1/2 inch hole (approax) which appears to be a crude method of venting? Any thoughts would be helpful, thanks .........Roger Brisbane, Australia

Thanks Scott, your very fair with your price, much appreciated I will send you an email.

Thanks Scott and Robert for your replies, there is a mixed set of valves installed. I am guessing, but what I think is the original ones have a flat top with an extended screwdriver slot and others have a domed style top with screwdriver slot and all of these have the pin for retaining. All dimensions are readable in the attached pics give or take a few thou and all have .375" stem dia. Another variation is a few exhausts have retaining collets and no slot with markings on the head as pictured below. Hopefully you have something to match for me? Many thanks Roger

Hello to all here, I need to acquire a newer/new inlet valve for my Studebaker Big 6. Will a Standard 6 do the same job or is there an equivalent that will fit? If you are interested I have posted a couple of short video's on "Youtube" on my progress of machining by hand and in situ an ugly previous repaired valve seat, to keep the beast running for now.....IMG_4225.jpg "Studebaker Big 6 valve seat tweek" Any info appreciated, thanks. Regards Roger Brisbane Australia 0413 770 910 studebaker25@hotmail.com

Hello to all here, My '25 EPK Coupe has a Big 6 engine which I have removed the head, due to a stuck exhaust valve which gave the impression that it was a chaff cutter warming up. I soon discovered that someone has been in there before me and used their improvised methods to keep the old timer running. Firstly there is 2 (exhaust) valves that have collets as the retention method, as apposed to the hardened pin style on all the other valves. There is also 3 short valve guides fitted instead of the longer original type in some of these locations, which do not give full support for the travel / lift of the valves. The stuck valve has had a savage undercut to accommodate the newer valve/seat in the block and needs to be machined out and a new seat installed, to bring it back to the original height....... Approax .300" below original position and excessive corrosion/ pitting evident. One of the attached pics shows visible valve guide lengths and the adjacent position has a barely noticeable valve guide protrusion, (where the brutally attacked exhaust port seat is). It's approax 1 inch shorter than the original guides installed. Does anyone have experience with removing the valve guides, what precautions or which method to extract these with (slide hammer after tapping etc) and what is the material used to make new ones, Brass / cast iron ? Or can I still buy replacement guides? All 12 guides are suffering 90 years of wear and tear. So a replacement would go well at this point and a lap of the seats etc. Many thanks in advance for any thoughts, suggestions or helpful hints you can offer. Regards Roger McDonnell Brisbane Australia

I have a 1925 EPK Coupe (Big 6) and it has a metal trunk on the back. Does anyone have a photo or knowledge of what the straps that support the metal trunk (box) on the back, look like? Is there a buckle on each of the straps, I think there was 2? One over the top of it and one around the back? I dont have pics at this stage but can take some if required. Any info is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance. Roger McDonnell Brisbane Australia

Wow thanks very much, I can now get my spare wheel off its mount .......... much appreciated and unexpected.

Thanks Scott and Gary, I will email you a pic Scott in the next day or 2. It's a round one that sits on the firewall about 2 inches in diameter, the top is quite easily removable (with the name Wagner stamped on top) and you can see the points and coil winding inside. The points are open and don't pull down with power connected, the Amp meter goes to full positive position when the relay is connected and power is on and the horn screaming. The thick red and black wires come directly from the Junction box and connect to terminals E and F. Only when I disconnect the wires from the relay my horn stops. I don't know about its other functions of the generator control and I haven't tested to see if the lights still work since disconnecting this. I cant see any other obvious relays around the car. So maybe it is a multi function relay? In the manual it is listed as a K-44 Wagner relay. Regards Roger

My EPK Big 6 came with a Wagner 6 Volt Relay which after 9 decades has given up. Does anyone have something suitable to replace this or if I am exceptionally lucky a NOS? I know that's a big call. Thanks in advance for any info here, Roger Brisbane Australia

Scott I have sent you an email and thanks to all here for your input, much appreciated. Roger

If your Remy is in working condition and will replace the one I mentioned, I would be interested in buying your spare? Roger

No Scott, its not a Remy....... I've just removed it now and on the base it says Mallory, there is a ceramic fitting at the top with a coiled spring running around it, just below where the king lead comes out. Stamped into the upper band it says ........ C 5000 6 V

Thank you Scott, there's a wealth of info there .......... I removed the oil pan/ filter basket an hour ago, it is full of sludge, worst case I have seen. I can easily put my arm up into the crank case and there is a lot of rocks in there on the main bearing support casting, suspended in more sludge. Every swipe on any structure with my fingers results in small rock/pebble type of debris. Can I flush the crank case with diesel and try to wash out any build up and rubbish, without starting the engine? At this stage I would like to avoid an engine strip and rebuild if I can. I have a fixed wing licence.......... I always wanted go to rotary but too cost prohibitive for me, I am struggling paying the bills on this old machine. Any tips or thoughts welcome. Thanks again ......... Roger

Do you know how to remove the horn button also?

Thanks again Ken, there's a wealth of knowledge flowing from your part of town, much appreciated.

Thanks Ken , I'll look for the plug in the morning, what oil do you use in your machine, detergent or non and what grade..... 20w/50 etc? And how many quarts doe sit take to fill back up? We say litres over here? Roger