road dog
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Posts posted by road dog
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My 37 pickup has one locking handle on the passanger side. I had to replace the key cylinder, easly done once you remove ir from the inside handle and shaft. So you would neeed ot find at least one outside door handle that matched the look of the existing handle, but you would not be able to lock the door from the inside.
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Asking 14,900 - for sale or trade.
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My 28K looks quite high compared to this '38. I will have to do more research on value. Thanks for the link.
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Ok, Dave nailed it. From what I can tell the frame is 36, probably rolling stock leftover due to poor dales, everything above the frame is 37, thus the title. My research shows the last LC as VIN 8156402 and the fist MC as VIN 8155701. My VIN is 8145810. I am still looking for the frame number. This was not uncommon due to the depression. The Engine has a build number of T38-31300 which I believe is a 218 engine used int the '37 MCs.
As to what I want for it, it's open. I have 28k in it just vehicle and parts, of which I have a complete record. I would keep it but for my left hip - so any reasonable offers will be considered.
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I wanted to keep it as is so I cleaned up the tips and where there was a poor connection I added a coating of sodder to the 3 tips. Not had any trouble since then. I have seen complete wiring harnesses on the net, though.
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Ok, Dave nailed it. From what I can tell the frame is 36, probably rolling stock leftover due to poor dales, everything above the frame is 37, thus the title. This was not uncommon due to the depression, and I know for a fact that the hubcap clips are not '37 but the dash is.
As to what I want for it, it's open. I have 28k in it just vehicle and parts, of which I have a complete record. I would keep it but for my left hip - so any reasonable offers will be considered.
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Titled 1937 Dodge Pickup, vin 8145810, for sale. Truck is in running condition and all original. All gauges were professionally repaired and work. All windows, horn, wipers, lights and horn work. Body is in fair condition, this is a work truck and original from the previous owners. I have provenance papers and repair history. I have original voltage regulator and shocks (repairable), and other additional parts. More pictures on request.
I can no longer work a clutch so I would consider cash or cash and a running truck with automatic transmission. More pictures and details provided to interested parties, final price TBD.
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I have a CTH2 Ball & Ball by Carter on my 37 MC.
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My Dodge 37 1/2 ton has a 36 frame - I have a grease zerk facing down on the support casting between the two pedals. I suggest trying to clean out the open hole facing down, it may be threaded for a zerk or it is broken off.
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Hi Greg,
The rear axel is drained from the gear case, where the drive shaft connects to the two rear wheel axels. The filler plug is not too far up from the bottom of the housing.When you get under there you will see it. I coouldn't find the spec oil weight from 37 so I used the 90 weight gear oil I had on hand to top it off. (only fill the housing to the bottom of the filler hole.) Someone on the list may know of a better weight oil that is still available.
Wheel bearing grease comes in a small can, not for the gun. It can be found at any auto parts store. Just liberally goop it on and around the bearing.
rd
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Perfect, thank you.
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Thank you for responding. OK, in your example is "is there a space between the bottom of the radiator (green) and the frame shell bracket (red)? Your drawing indicates that there is , represented by the space between the yellow line and the radiator (green), which is what I have. Or did I miss the whole point?
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I am installing a stock radiator in my '37 pickup. When I fit it in there is a large space between the radiator and the cross member underneath. Anyone know if I am missing a mounting block, My repair manual make no mention. Thanks.
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Terry,
Do you have a kit left?
jp
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A set of 4 Dodge embossed hubcaps for a 1937, 1938, 1939, 1940 Dodge 1/2 ton pickup and a 1939, 1940 Dodge panel, stake and 3/4 ton pickup. These hub caps measure 9.5 inches in overall diameter with a mounting opening of 7.25 inches. These may fit other years of Dodge truck or cars.
The hubcaps faces and are in good condition for their age with some surface rust spots, scratches and small dents. The chrome is bright but one is faded. The undersides have mild surface rust. Photos on request.
Asking $174 plus $26 shipping.
941.921.9450
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Thanks for the info and pictures. Now I know which type holddowns to use.
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Lucky Don, can you send me the pics of the hood hold-downs, I have the same questions : which is the front one, back one , and which side of the holddown gets the hood hinge - the rounded side or the other larger size?
thanks,
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how about this ....
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Is it this one?
It Is a photo from the 1936 Dodge manual.
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jpage, thanks for the reply. I found the felt as you suggested. I love simple solutions.
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I have to replace some Brake Shoe Anchor Bolt Oil Washers, some have disintegrated. These are the rubbery washers holding the lower end of the break shoes on to the 3/4 inch bolt, behind the metal cover and clip holding it to the bolt. I haven't found any fiber washers that fit, anyone else solved this issue? The dodge 1937 part number is 619308, also used on other trucks of the era.
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Success, hub came off with only two hits of a maul on the new correct puller. Thanks one-shot and ply33. BTW, the problem was from rear end oil and time.
Thanks again.
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Thanks, found the item there, sure looks like the one suggested by Ply33. I just ordered the 4 leg hub puller.
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Thanks for the info. I found a listing for 3 leg puller on Napa web site, do you remember where you were able to get the fourth leg?
35 KCL radiator cap
in Dodge Trucks
Posted
No, its a low pressure system, plain cap.