Ltc4748

You can test the fluid by exhaling over the opening of the tester while squeezing and releasing the rubber bulb several times. This way you will see the yellow color the fluid will turn. Then repeat squeezing the bulb several times in fresh air and the fluid will return to blue.

I have seen the sealing area's around the spark plug hole pit from rust. I had a machinist make a cutter that I turn by hand to cut the surface smooth and use new copper gaskets from a hydraulic shop. I test the sealing with a spray bottle of soapy water while the engine is running to see if it still is leaking. I have good luck getting them to seal. On one hole someone popped the starting thread and it left a recess. That one I put a thread insert in so it replaced the sealing area.

To check dash unit disconnect wire on sending unit and keep it away from ground, key on engine off the gauge needle should go to one end of the scale either full or empty. Next with the key still on ground the wire that went to the sending unit, gauge needle should go to the the opposite end of the scale. if the gauge responds correctly the sending unit or tank ground is bad. If gauge does not respond correctly it is either a bad voltage supply, bad wiring or a bad gauge itself.

It is actually a guessing game unless you install a pressure gauge and see what the cold and hot operating pressures are. If the pressures are below around 5 psi hot idle the light will come on. you can check the sender by measuring resistance with 10 psi pressure applied by an air regulator and gauge readout and then slowly turn the regulator down in pressure until the light goes on. If the pressure is low check the relief valve, if OK then remove the oil pump and pressurize the oil galley and see where the larger leaks are or check each main and rod bearing. Also pull the cover off the oil pump and check the gears and pockets for scoring. Gears should only have about .001" of clearance. Also when pressurizing the oil galley watch for oil leakage in the timing cover or another area. I have seen many "rebuilds" where someone forgot to plug or correctly reseal an oil galley. Best of luck to you

The easiest way to check for a battery drain is to take the ground terminal off the battery and connect a test light between the battery post and the terminal. The light should not even glow a barely visible dim red color. To check if you have it connected correctly and that the test light is good open the door or turn something on, the set light will glow brightly. This can even be used on new cars with computers but there are other steps you must follow. If the light is glowing and everything is off disconnect one thing at a time until the bulb goes out. Best of luck

If the brake pedal is hard like the brake is when the engine is not running check for vacuum at the booster by removing the vacuum hose at the booster while the engine is running at idle. Engine should stall immediately due to the large vacuum leak, check that the hose is not soft and sucking shut while the engine is running. If vacuum is not present or only a slight leak look if there is a one way check valve in the vacuum line (some look like an inline filter) , if there is none in the line and the engine stalls when the line is removed check the connector at the booster, it may have a built in check valve. I have seen these go bad and you may get one power assist but if you let off the brake and press it again the pedal is rock hard.

Most auto parts stores have a glass center fuel filter that uses a fine screen to catch debris. The nice thing is you can visibly see if it is dirty and it easily comes apart to clean and put back together. I am using them before the Vacuum tanks and at the lowest point in the line with easy access to inspect. It has not interfered with the operation of any of the vacuum tanks yet for me. They cost about $10 and are 1/8" female pipe threads. They come with plastic fittings but I install brass ones. The filter is maybe .75" diameter and 2" long

Most auto parts stores have a glass center fuel filter that uses a fine screen to catch debris. The nice thing is you can visibly see if it is dirty and it easily comes apart to clean and put back together. I am using them before the Vacuum tanks and at the lowest point in the line with easy access to inspect. It has not interfered with the operation of any of the vacuum tanks yet for me. They cost about $10 and are 1/8" female pipe threads. They come with plastic fittings but I install brass ones. The filter is maybe .75" diameter and 2" long

While in college during the 70's I remember the course on the braking system. We had theory and literature that spoke about the brakes in detail. When the lining material went from the woven type to the asbestos base and each shoe was no longer anchored on one end, the manufacturers started making the linings different also. There is a Primary shoe (front) and a Secondary shoe(rear) at each wheel . The primary shoe was identified by the word primary marked onto the new lining or it was always the 2 shoes in a set with the shorter lining applied to them. The primary shoe lining material was a slightly different composition than the rear shoe. It was slightly softer or more "grabby" than the Secondary shoe. When the brake was applied both shoes move outward until they contact the rotating drum. The shoes then rotate toward the anchor pin. This action wedges the secondary shoe to the drum. For a more even brake wear and life they changed the asbestos mixture of material and the length on the primary versus the secondary shoes to get the most durability/life in the small space. I still have old lining sets that I keep for my antiques that are marked with ink "primary" and "secondary" in the boxes. Many times through the 70's, 80's and into the 90's I would see both primary shoes on one side of a vehicle or the primary shoe mounted on the rear of the wheel. They were always visibly worn harder than the secondary shoes were.

Hello Greg. I know you have been having issues with your car running correctly for a while. One thing to check that is often overlooked is the ignition coil, specifically the primary side wiring (small low - voltage wiring). If the ground side of the battery is positive polarity then the small wire that comes off the coil going to the distributor/points should be on the side of the coil with a + or something to indicate the polarity. if the battery has been hooked up with a negative ground then the coil primary lead going to the distributor/points must be connected to the - side on the coil. Years ago I hooked one up incorrectly and the engine runs anything but correctly. Changing the ignition timing out of specification makes them run better but not even close to decent. Take a look at the coil polarity and get back to us, Best of luck to you. Larry

I have been using Dielectric grease as an assembly lube for over 20 years with regular DOT 3 fluid or DOT 5 Silicone fluid. I have had no problems with one I did in 1991 a 1948 Chrysler that I used DOT 5 fluid in and which I still own. Larry

Thank you very much Stude17. I saw the 2 small bolts that hold the cover you mention on but I did not remove them. If I can ever help you with something please ask.

I have seen flash fires over the years when people use a flammable spray to check for vacuum leaks. The only way I check for vacuum leaks is just water in a spray bottle. When you spray an area that has a leak you will hear the slurping sound of the water being drawn into the manifold. If the leaks are big enough to let enough water in to damage an engine they are also large enough to hear the leak and to not allow the engine to have a low idle. Be carful that you don't spray water directly on a hot exhaust manifold or you can suffer a steam burn.

I am helping another hobbyist that removed the leather faced cone clutch from his Stude. To get the drive shaft out of the car he removed the 6 nuts that hold the hub assembly with the spring and thrust bearing to the cone clutch. This would be very difficult to put back together this way. Does anyone remember doing one of these if you must take the differential loose and move it back? About 3/4" is all that we need to get the shaft back in with the clutch assembly installed as a unit. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance

If you do not use neetsfoot oil occasionally the leather will dry out and fly apart, it happened last year to a friend of mines 1918 studebaker. If you apply too much oil depressing the clutch will not squeeze out the excess because the clutch will be released. I read somewhere a product called mothers earth can be used on leather clutches if they are slipping from being oil soaked due to leakage or ???

Next time you run the engine remove the oil filler cap while it is running. When the cap is off it should not be blowing pressure out of the filler area while the engine is running. If it is first check to see if the PCV valve is working by removing the PCV valve with engine running and verify that there is a decent amount of vacuum being drawn at the opening of the PCV valve. there are some old flow testers for PCV systems but few people have them and you can thumb check a similar model that is not having the issue. Engines that have heavier blow by past the rings will slowly coat the vacuum passage way shut to the point that there is little or no PCV action. Also remember the PCV system has a hose usually 3/8" or so inside diameter that comes from filtered air at the air cleaner to allow the vapors pulled by the PCV system to be replaced without allowing a high vacuum applied to the crankcase thus sucking dirt and other impurities into the engine from poor sealing areas. When blow by on engines become excessive the PCV system cannot flow enough and oil will be deposited in the air cleaner through the breather hose. I have seen people remove these lines and sometimes plug them. If the PCV valve is removed from the valve cover, the engine is running and the filler cap area has a vacuum that draws on your hand when placed over the opening I would be very suspicious of an intake sealing problem.

In 1988 I got a 48 Chrysler Town and Country from my Father who had bought it new from Martin Motors in Harrisburg Pa. The car was in the 72 flood up to the dash. My brother in-law started "restoring " it in 1976 and then life got in his way and he quit. When I got it the interior was out and the engine was partially apart. I stripped the car to the frame and painted each component as it went back together. By 1991 I had the steel floor pan and driveline together and running. Until 1995 I had some of the wood repaired/replaced and all of it mounted back on the car temporarily for fitting. Then my father died and my desire to get it running to drive it with him was gone. Life got in my way with building a new home and Garage and raising children. I have not touched the car since 1995 other than to drive it into the new storage part of my garage and buy parts at swap meets for it. Along the way I have purchased another chicken coup 47 Town and Country from a sale in Bloomsburg and a 26 model T from an uncle and a 27 Commander. I will never "restore" another car, for driving them has become my pleasure, looking at a restored car does not do anything for me personally if worrying that something might put a mark on it takes all the pleasure away from the driving part that I love most. 2018 will be 30 years since I continued the "restoration"and maybe I will get to finish it, for retirement is around the corner. If by chance I do not get to finish someone else will have an opportunity to get a Garage find with years of parts collection to build and enjoy the way they wish like I have enjoyed my style of the old car hobby over the years. Best wishes for the holiday to all you old car nuts like me out there.

Nice car. Will the car rev up when not in gear? Was anything just done to the engine before the problem surfaced?

I use water in a spray bottle to check vacuum leaks, it makes a peculiar sound when you find a leak. if the vacuum gage is bouncing radically recheck the valve adjustment. Make sure if it is to be done hot or cold you follow procedure. Valves that are adjusted too tight will cause a vacuum gage to bounce.

A word of caution on towing. The last time I checked, in PA if you own the tow vehicle , the trailer and the trailer contents then the contents are covered under the standard automobile insurance policy. If you do not own the trailer or the contents then the trailer contents must be insured separately using a cargo insurance. It is best to check with your agent to see, especially if what you are hauling is of value that you cannot replace without financial hardship. Typically the cargo insurance is inexpensive but worth a thought.

If you did not get it to work yet I would take the horn switch apart and with the wire end disconnected or the grounding part of the switch isolated away from any grounded contact the horn should not blow, if it does follow the circuit back to the relay and disconnect it there and see if it still blows. If you don't want to hear the loud horn while testing it disconnect the horn itself before you start and temporarily connect a headlamp into the circuit so it lights and shine it so it can be seen while you are working at the switch or other area's. Be sure to keep the live contacts / connections on the back of the bulb insulated with electrical or duct tape since it will be a live circuit. Once you get the light to turn on when pushing the horn button and go off when released you can reconnect your horn and it will work.

Hello To all. In Pa there is a group of pre war car enthusiasts called the varmints, that get together every month just to drive them. We don't have age requirements for individuals due to most younger people cannot afford a prewar and family costs at the same time. They do only recognize the prewar cars when counting attendance but there are always some other post war antiques that cruise along which are still great to be with. Typically the post war cars have the younger people in them. I am in my early 50's and have been going along for about 3 years. We have no dues no officers just a few people that enjoy driving their prewar vehicles. About 15 prewar cars show up for each tour. at the end of each cruise we stop to eat and a donation is received for the cost of the news letter so the group can keep going. Each month an individual is the tour master by their choice, sometimes coerced but still volunteer. They chose a route and or place to visit and then a place to stop and eat. It works here for this group but may not elsewhere

You do not have to use an inertia switch for a safety shut off of the electric fuel pump. GM and other manufacturers used an oil pressure sending unit to control the pump, loss of oil pressure shut off the pump. If the fuel system does drain back in a day or two verify the flexible / rubber lines are not dry rotted or cracked allowing air to enter the system. My cars can set weeks and will start start with minimal cranking time.

Had a great time at the swap meet in York, Bought a few good items and saw a lot of nice Studebakers. Thank you to all who made the show possible. The M5 cab with the V12 Detroit Diesel was the interesting running unit and the 1930's ambulance was the non running vehicle in my opinion. GO Studebaker!!!!!!!

I am looking for the channel that is on the bottom inside of the windshield that the opening regulator slides back and forth in. Is it on this windshield frame? Do you have one? Thank You Larry Ltc4748@comcast.net