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Everything posted by Ltc4748

  1. I have been using Dielectric grease as an assembly lube for over 20 years with regular DOT 3 fluid or DOT 5 Silicone fluid. I have had no problems with one I did in 1991 a 1948 Chrysler that I used DOT 5 fluid in and which I still own. Larry
  2. Thank you very much Stude17. I saw the 2 small bolts that hold the cover you mention on but I did not remove them. If I can ever help you with something please ask.
  3. Ltc4748

    vacuum leak

    I have seen flash fires over the years when people use a flammable spray to check for vacuum leaks. The only way I check for vacuum leaks is just water in a spray bottle. When you spray an area that has a leak you will hear the slurping sound of the water being drawn into the manifold. If the leaks are big enough to let enough water in to damage an engine they are also large enough to hear the leak and to not allow the engine to have a low idle. Be carful that you don't spray water directly on a hot exhaust manifold or you can suffer a steam burn.
  4. I am helping another hobbyist that removed the leather faced cone clutch from his Stude. To get the drive shaft out of the car he removed the 6 nuts that hold the hub assembly with the spring and thrust bearing to the cone clutch. This would be very difficult to put back together this way. Does anyone remember doing one of these if you must take the differential loose and move it back? About 3/4" is all that we need to get the shaft back in with the clutch assembly installed as a unit. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance
  5. If you do not use neetsfoot oil occasionally the leather will dry out and fly apart, it happened last year to a friend of mines 1918 studebaker. If you apply too much oil depressing the clutch will not squeeze out the excess because the clutch will be released. I read somewhere a product called mothers earth can be used on leather clutches if they are slipping from being oil soaked due to leakage or ???
  6. Next time you run the engine remove the oil filler cap while it is running. When the cap is off it should not be blowing pressure out of the filler area while the engine is running. If it is first check to see if the PCV valve is working by removing the PCV valve with engine running and verify that there is a decent amount of vacuum being drawn at the opening of the PCV valve. there are some old flow testers for PCV systems but few people have them and you can thumb check a similar model that is not having the issue. Engines that have heavier blow by past the rings will slowly coat the vacuum passage way shut to the point that there is little or no PCV action. Also remember the PCV system has a hose usually 3/8" or so inside diameter that comes from filtered air at the air cleaner to allow the vapors pulled by the PCV system to be replaced without allowing a high vacuum applied to the crankcase thus sucking dirt and other impurities into the engine from poor sealing areas. When blow by on engines become excessive the PCV system cannot flow enough and oil will be deposited in the air cleaner through the breather hose. I have seen people remove these lines and sometimes plug them. If the PCV valve is removed from the valve cover, the engine is running and the filler cap area has a vacuum that draws on your hand when placed over the opening I would be very suspicious of an intake sealing problem.
  7. In 1988 I got a 48 Chrysler Town and Country from my Father who had bought it new from Martin Motors in Harrisburg Pa. The car was in the 72 flood up to the dash. My brother in-law started "restoring " it in 1976 and then life got in his way and he quit. When I got it the interior was out and the engine was partially apart. I stripped the car to the frame and painted each component as it went back together. By 1991 I had the steel floor pan and driveline together and running. Until 1995 I had some of the wood repaired/replaced and all of it mounted back on the car temporarily for fitting. Then my father died and my desire to get it running to drive it with him was gone. Life got in my way with building a new home and Garage and raising children. I have not touched the car since 1995 other than to drive it into the new storage part of my garage and buy parts at swap meets for it. Along the way I have purchased another chicken coup 47 Town and Country from a sale in Bloomsburg and a 26 model T from an uncle and a 27 Commander. I will never "restore" another car, for driving them has become my pleasure, looking at a restored car does not do anything for me personally if worrying that something might put a mark on it takes all the pleasure away from the driving part that I love most. 2018 will be 30 years since I continued the "restoration"and maybe I will get to finish it, for retirement is around the corner. If by chance I do not get to finish someone else will have an opportunity to get a Garage find with years of parts collection to build and enjoy the way they wish like I have enjoyed my style of the old car hobby over the years. Best wishes for the holiday to all you old car nuts like me out there.
  8. Nice car. Will the car rev up when not in gear? Was anything just done to the engine before the problem surfaced?
  9. I use water in a spray bottle to check vacuum leaks, it makes a peculiar sound when you find a leak. if the vacuum gage is bouncing radically recheck the valve adjustment. Make sure if it is to be done hot or cold you follow procedure. Valves that are adjusted too tight will cause a vacuum gage to bounce.
  10. A word of caution on towing. The last time I checked, in PA if you own the tow vehicle , the trailer and the trailer contents then the contents are covered under the standard automobile insurance policy. If you do not own the trailer or the contents then the trailer contents must be insured separately using a cargo insurance. It is best to check with your agent to see, especially if what you are hauling is of value that you cannot replace without financial hardship. Typically the cargo insurance is inexpensive but worth a thought.
  11. If you did not get it to work yet I would take the horn switch apart and with the wire end disconnected or the grounding part of the switch isolated away from any grounded contact the horn should not blow, if it does follow the circuit back to the relay and disconnect it there and see if it still blows. If you don't want to hear the loud horn while testing it disconnect the horn itself before you start and temporarily connect a headlamp into the circuit so it lights and shine it so it can be seen while you are working at the switch or other area's. Be sure to keep the live contacts / connections on the back of the bulb insulated with electrical or duct tape since it will be a live circuit. Once you get the light to turn on when pushing the horn button and go off when released you can reconnect your horn and it will work.
  12. Hello To all. In Pa there is a group of pre war car enthusiasts called the varmints, that get together every month just to drive them. We don't have age requirements for individuals due to most younger people cannot afford a prewar and family costs at the same time. They do only recognize the prewar cars when counting attendance but there are always some other post war antiques that cruise along which are still great to be with. Typically the post war cars have the younger people in them. I am in my early 50's and have been going along for about 3 years. We have no dues no officers just a few people that enjoy driving their prewar vehicles. About 15 prewar cars show up for each tour. at the end of each cruise we stop to eat and a donation is received for the cost of the news letter so the group can keep going. Each month an individual is the tour master by their choice, sometimes coerced but still volunteer. They chose a route and or place to visit and then a place to stop and eat. It works here for this group but may not elsewhere
  13. You do not have to use an inertia switch for a safety shut off of the electric fuel pump. GM and other manufacturers used an oil pressure sending unit to control the pump, loss of oil pressure shut off the pump. If the fuel system does drain back in a day or two verify the flexible / rubber lines are not dry rotted or cracked allowing air to enter the system. My cars can set weeks and will start start with minimal cranking time.
  14. Had a great time at the swap meet in York, Bought a few good items and saw a lot of nice Studebakers. Thank you to all who made the show possible. The M5 cab with the V12 Detroit Diesel was the interesting running unit and the 1930's ambulance was the non running vehicle in my opinion. GO Studebaker!!!!!!!
  15. I am looking for the channel that is on the bottom inside of the windshield that the opening regulator slides back and forth in. Is it on this windshield frame? Do you have one? Thank You Larry
  16. Hello to all Studebaker fans. Does any one know if there are any places that rebuild the old leather faced cone clutches with a new material like kevlar or ???? Thank you Larry
  17. Thank you for looking Garnetkid. I hope Leif or another member can tell me if it will work.
  18. I think you should be able to find one, It might be a little harder finding it with the correct serial number designation. I have a 1927 EW sedan with 1 spare EW and a spare ES engines.
  19. Thank you for your replies. I will keep trying to find these for my friend. Larry
  20. On manual transmissions there are detent balls, springs and spacing pins to give the locked in feeling when shifting into gear thus also holding it in gear. These also are used to keep the transmission from shifting into two gears at one time. You mention a 4th gear lock system for the pump pto. If this has any devices used to keep the truck from being shifted into gear to be driven I would look into this feature closely. If a transmission does go into two gears at once it is impossible to move until one gear is shifted out or the weakest link breaks. Check your linkages for movement while the engine is running versus engine static.
  21. A friend of mine is looking for 2 parts to complete this car which he just started driving. He needs the spark plug cover on the engine and the rear generator starter cover. If anyone has these items please let me know the cost and with his OK I will order them from you. The man that needs them is a Korean war veteran that does not use computers and has very poor hearing. I have to go see him to speak with him so it takes me a couple days to get back with an answer. Thank You Larry
  22. Hello Brian. I am 99% sure that I have an atalanta with the quick release if what has been offered to you already falls through Larry
  23. I do not have any trip planned my cars are not ready. I still like to see the cars going down the road. Hope you are out
  24. You did not mention how you set the low idle mixture. You should set low idle to spec's with the speed screw on the throttle and then adjust the mixture screw(s) ( 1 screw on a single barrel carb and 2 screws on a two barrel carb ) in or out whichever way increases the engine RPM. reset the speed screw and then turn the mixture screw(s) again to get the highest engine rpm's and reset the engine speed It should get to the point no matter which way you turn the mixture screws(s) the engine speed will go down, this will have set the mixture correctly or what is known as peaking the carb. If the mixture screws are turned fully closed or are coming out of the bore 5 or more turns then the carb is not working correctly and should be checked for the problem associated to where the mixture screws are in or out.
  25. I am looking for 2 sheet metal parts for a 1924 Buick 45. One goes across the top of the engine covering the valve train. The second one goes on the rearward side of the starter generator. I am also looking for a headlight bar. Does anybody know of any available? Thank you Ltc4748