Ltc4748
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Posts posted by Ltc4748
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Check the fluid level is not above the bottom of the fill hole and confirm the proper lubricant was used, my guess is it had 80-90 weight. When the transmission was installed did the front of the transmission lean downward for a little while trying to install it and some residual oil run out the input collar?
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I have been installing pertronix from time to time over the last 20 years in cars, tractors, trucks and boats. The performance has been some what more reliable than a set of points and condenser. Early this spring I installed pertronix in a Ford 9N that had a 12 volt conversion, and verified the coils Ohm reading. The tractor ran fine for about 3 months and the owner called me to tell me it quit. The ignitor assembly failed, wait several days for a new one to arrive and it was up and running again. It ran the rest of this year so far.
When running a point system, providing the condenser or coil is not the failed component I can clean the contacts, set the gap and back to running with the only cost being some of my time. The cost of the pertronix to me is prohibitive to carry spares in every vehicle I have. the cost of a condenser and a point file that is kept in the car with the basic tool set I carry gets me where I want to be. I enjoy working on vehicles almost as much as I like driving them. For those who cannot do their own work Pertronix installed correctly is probably best for them.
As for reducing maintenance by using pertronix that can also cause other issues. When my vehicle starts cranking longer because the points are getting dirty it is a sign to me to clean or replace them and do proper lubrication of the Distributor and other items in the engine bay that need periodic attention.
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BTW it has an automatic choke. I would still check for spark first.
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Check the battery voltage first. If at or below 6 volts on a digital meter charge the battery first. After charging if it turns over but doesn't start pull the coil wire and check for spark while cranking. You can hook a 12 volt test light on the end of the wire and hold the probe to ground to check if the bulb flashes or put a screwdriver in the wire end and lay it on the engine so the driver shank is 1/8 inch away from ground.
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If you have a vacuum pressure gauge used for fuel pump testing you can remove the suction fitting and attach the gage. Crank the engine and watch it it builds vacuum or pressure or nothing. If nothing happens check what you think the outlet side is. Depending on pump design the check valves could be reversed and the flow through the lift pump will be reversed also.
Another way to check if the valves are correctly installed would be take the hose and line off the pump and use a hose on the suction side and blow with your mouth. If the valves are in correctly and working you will be able to blow that way but not be able to push air the opposite way.
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Have you removed the plugs from 5 & 7 and looked at them. The reason I ask is they would be more white in color than the rest of the cylinders if they are running lean. I have also seen in the past that people would replace the plugs and during the process either did not check the gap or dropped them and closed the gap, this causes a constant misfire.
Since it had a new Holley carb installed did anyone correctly set fuel level and idle mixtures? If you close the choke by hand slowly (or restrict the air into the carb with your hand) and the engine begins to run smoother the mixture is too lean. If the mixture is correct closing the choke manually will make the engine load up without any improvement.
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Since the driveshaft stops when you only push the clutch in, the clutch is not stuck. I noticed that when you try to engage another gear the driveline begins to turn. Have you put a tachometer on the engine and checked what the idle speed is? Keep the idle as low as you can when warm, check your shop manual for what is recommended. If idle speed is correct it the clutch plate must be dragging between the flywheel and the pressure plate. Either the disc is not true/flat or the pressure plate does not release correctly. To see if it will release adjust the clutch pedal to zero freeplay temporarily and do the same test again. If it will shift then you know for sure there is not enough clearance for the clutch disc. Look at the clutch facings if you take it out again. they should not be visibly moving when you squeeze the facings together with your fingers.
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Looks to me that the linings may be stuck to the pressure plate and flywheel. If you have the transmission in neutral and have anther person depress the clutch the clutch disc must be able to be moved with a screwdriver or wood stick with ease.
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I put DOT 5 in a 48 chrysler in 1997. The brakes system still works great, I have not added any fluid and the pedal is firm. I put it in my 59 Studebaker and I had seepage through one of the wheel cylinders that I had to hone the bore and replace the cups, it has been good since 2014.
I will keep using DOT 5 in my old cars because I have not seen any issues that could not be overcome easily, yet.
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Many of the electric horns on prewar cars have 2 wires connected to them. One wire is connected to power and the other wire goes to the horn button where the wire is grounded to complete the electrical circuit which will make the horn sound if it works. The wire coming off the horn in the picture appears to go to the starter hot post. If you hook this wire up does the horn make noise? If it does, either the horn requires power sent to the horn wire to make it work or there is another wire that goes from the horn to the horn button that is grounded or the horn button is bad/grounded. If you hook the hot lead up and the horn does not make any noise I would remove the cover and see if there is another connection inside if, there is no others on the outside. If you find the connection ground it to see if the horn makes noise, the other wire still needs hooked to the hot post at starter. For safety use a 20 amp inline fuse as a safety device to connect the hot wire at the starter. If the fuse blows the horn may be shorted. Better to blow a fuse than burn the insulation off the wiring.
I like your Studebaker, I have an EW.
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When the fluid is cold the wheels will be free, as you drive the car the fluid expands from heat and slowly build pressure if the port is blocked by incorrect adjustment or rust/dirt in the port, crack a line the pressure drops and the wheels will rotate freely again.
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Check that the pedals pushrod is not holding the plunger down in the master first, also pull the boot back and verify the plunger is coming the hole way out and touching the snap ring. If these 2 items are correct check all the wheels for freedom of movement and then take it for another drive to see if the brakes apply again. Take a wrench along that you can use to take a bleeder or line loose, at any point that is easy to get to. If the brakes start to get hot again, crack the line or bleeder loose and watch to see if there is a little pressure forcing the fluid out. If you do this and fluid comes out then slows I bet the wheels no longer drag and build heat. The cause is the residual port in the master is blocked. If you look inside that master cylinder there are 2 ports that allow fluid to go into the bore. One is about 3/16" in diameter, the second port is only about .040" the smaller port is what allows the brake fluid to return to the reservoir when the brakes are applied and the fluid expands from warming. I have seen vehicles experience this and the further the owners ran them the more the brakes applied. By releasing the fluid pressure the brakes will quit dragging and the heat will no longer keep building up. Since it is a single brake system (unless the previous owner upgraded to a dual master cylinder) taking any line loose will drop the pressure in the entire brake system. To fix you can take a bread poke wire or the smallest torch tip cleaner and push it through the small hole to open the port. The trick is getting to it if it is not below the cap. I have seen some that you had to take the master apart to clean it out.
Keep on drivin that 48!
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I will be getting the commander out of storage next week and will take a picture of the installation and the way I had to shim the generator. I will list the part number of the coupling also.
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Mr, Hale. I noticed the generator is off the engine. If you are going to put it back on that engine be sure top look at the drive halves which have rubber dampers in it. The originals were made of a poor grade aluminum or pot metal and they do not hold up. If yours show signs of cracking do not use them. My 27 EW flew apart while driving, luckily it did not hit the radiator or it would have been expensive. You can buy a replacement flex drive (Lovejoy coupling) from Graingers that will fit in with only a slight modification, you have to shim the generator up about .1". If you want the information let me know and I will send to you.
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61 Polara, I stand corrected. what I had it in my thoughts was wrong. I pulled an old service manual for the transmission and confirmed you are correct.
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The fluid drive cars only have the reverse position and the typical 2nd gear and 3rd gear shifter positions. When you drive these in Low Range (normally second gear shift position) the transmission starts out in 1st gear and once you get above maybe 5-10 MPH you lift your foot off the throttle pedal and you will feel/hear the transmission shift into third gear then you can push the pedal down to resume accelerating. If you have the shifter in High Range (normally the third gear position) the transmission starts in 2nd gear and shifts to 4th gear when you lift your foot off the accelerator. The fluid drive tranny has an ignition interrupter switch, a low speed solenoid, an electric governor switch and a reverse light switch mounted on the transmission (if equipped with reverse lights). The low speed solenoid and the switch on the carburetor will need reduced voltage to avoid damage. Only this M5 transmission type will be wired with the ignition coil. Also this car will have an Autolite HRM-4102 transmission control unit mounted near the voltage regulator.
If you have a manual 3 speed tranny, with or without the overdrive, behind a fluid coupling. The shift lever will go into 1st gear when you pull back and down on the shift lever. also the transmission will not shift when you let up the throttle pedal in the low or high range positions. There will also only be one electrical component attached to the transmission case if it has overdrive plus a reverse light switch if it has the lights.
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Another item to consider with the dual wheel cylinders upfront and singles in the rear. The amount of pressure tries to be equal at all points since all lines are together after a single residual valve. With one side of the system having 4 cylinders and the other side having only 2 cylinders it may affect the braking ratio if the travel of the dual cylinders is greater due to design. if the wheel cylinders push on the front shoes the same distance from the stationary/anchor point of the shoe as the rear ones I would expect the distance traveled to be the same as the rear under the same pressure applied. One thing not mentioned was the wheel cylinder size, are they the same from front to back? The rear cylinders are open on both ends. A one inch cylinder open on both ends will have the same amount of force applied by fluid pressure as 2 one inch wheel cylinders that are only open on one side. I have not done a system like that for a few years but I remember that adjustment of the brakes anchor pin eccentrics (if the 56 is like the 40's Mopars) at the anchor pin can make or ruin correct operation of the brake system. You can put adjustable residual valves on the system to modify application of the front brakes but that would be difficult to judge.
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The pressure bleeder type must have a perfectly sealing master adapter so it hold the pressure from leaking off at the master. When they leak at the master cover adapter the air in the reservoir slowly disappears and then the brake fluid begins coming out since the master is now completely toppled off on fluid. DOT #3 fluid is not good for any paint or clear coat it comes in contact with, depending on how much time it is on and type of finish it can appear dull immediately and peel or blister in the future. There are very few adapters available to fit newer vehicles. You can get adapters to fit the older vehicles but not for all types.
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Stakeside, There are several bars that can be used to remove the lock ring. Some like certain types, I use a pry bar that I picked up from a sale. I also want to be sure that you understand the dangers of putting air into a multi piece rim. Those wheels have maimed or killed more people than what you may think. The lock ring groove on the rim must have the rust and dirt removed from it. The lock ring should not be distorted, must be visibly inspected for cracks, and when installed is snug on the rim . When you put air into these rims the only safe way is to have a tire cage. Mechanics my age all have seen the safety videos and pictures of what can happen when working with the split rims. The worst one I was shown was from 7 years ago, 2 guys in a large two bay garage, the video was from a security system. The mechanic was rolling the tire after removing it from the vehicle and left it fall over to lay flat on the floor. The ring blew on impact and the rim knocked him clear off his feet and onto his back, the second man turned to run away and the rim came back down off the 20 foot ceiling and pile drove him to the ground, It bounced one more time and landed on top of the mechanic that was not moving on the floor. Please be very careful, When a 10.00X20 truck wheel separates at or near full pressure I am told they can lift a VW beetle off the ground. The tire cage is junk after one rim unloads while filling a wheel. While filling them I have an inflater with a long hose so I can stand safely away from it. I know people who have changed them for years with no issues, I also know 2 who were not as lucky. Be safe.
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I try to eliminate the air coming past the threads so I know when the lines are clear of air, it keeps me from bleeding too long and running the master dry. I want to avoid starting over
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I have both the pressure type, 20 - 40 PSI max and a vacuum bleeder setup. I use the vacuum unit the most, it has a bottle made to add more fluid so the master does not run empty. As for the air leakage past the bleeder I use the thickest bottle of antiseize past on the threads, It reduces the air drawn past the threads, sometimes completely. The other benefit is the bleeder will still open 20 years later with no problem. Since you are bleeding the brake I remove the bleeder completely, dry the threads on it and put a thick coating on the threads and put it back in.
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I torque all wheels to a set amount depending on age of vehicle and thread size. Modern vehicles once and done unless I notice corrosion issues, then I clean the mating parts, hit them with a light coat of clear and then mount and torque. If the vehicle is not mine I inform the owner to either check them after about 25 to 50 miles or stop back and I will do it for them. Older vehicles the studs or bolts do not always have the strength to meet the standard torque charts call out. I tighten them to an amount that is usually 50 to 75 ft lbs. take them for a spin and check again.
Each year when I get a vehicle out I do a safety inspection, brake adjustment if needed, complete fluid level check and check the wheel torque on every nut, stud. A word of caution when working on a new to you vehicle is to pay attention to the left side of the vehicle in case the vehicle has left hand threads. This was quite common on vehicles before the 70's
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Nice Car, Mike was cleaning the monument so it looked good with the cars!
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AdaminNH. With what you plan to do I would probably use a 4 post. I work at home for family and friends doing all types of repairs. I have both lifts so I can choose my best option. The 4 posts are nice for all around but if I was consistently doing suspension repairs and brakes I would not choose the 4 post. Just my opinion.
Dennis Hagen
in Technical
Posted
If all the brakes are dragging/getting hot I would be looking at the Master cylinder. In a master cylinder there are 2 holes, 1 is much larger than the second one. The smaller one is about .020" in diameter. If the smaller hole gets plugged by a piece of dirt or the DOT 3 has moisture in it and it corrodes shut, the fluid in the lines cannot return back into the master cylinder as it expands from warming up due to heat from braking, underhood engine temperature, and ambient temperature. A quick way to check if this is happening is to carry a wrench with you and use it to crack one line ( 2 lines for a dual reservoir system) loose for a second and relieve the pressure. If the brakes work fine after relieving the pressure I would disassemble the master and probe the smaller hole with a number bit that measures no greater than .020".
Another possibility is if the residual valve would hold too much fluid pressure in the brake line. If the residual valve is doing it you would relieve the pressure and after driving some more the brakes will begin to drag again. relieving the pressure again would relieve the pressure and the brakes would be free again.
Some master cylinders are open enough that you can probe the small hole on the vehicle to see if it is open. I have seen this several times over the years, it is unusual.