Alan Cutler
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Posts posted by Alan Cutler
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Run one up to the hole in the frame on the driver side near the drum, then plumb with rubber hose connectors using c clips to lock it in the frame. Run the passenger side to the front, then across the radiator support, then to the same hole on the frame on the passenger side, c-clip, then connect a rubber hose.
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I became the caretaker of it in 2022. Yes, it was Ken Kenewell's, a 1930 Auburn 8-125.
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On 3/16/2024 at 6:21 AM, michaelmackay said:
I am looking for a specific machine screw and it has been really hard if not impossible to find. I've been to fastenal twice (of course they ordered hex heads for me first that I had to return). I've contacted mcmaster and grainger, as well as used all the google kung foo I know how to muster. So....anyone have any recommendations for a supplier for a really hard to find machine screw??? I am looking for 6-40 flathead, torx drive machine screws (3/8"-5/8"). I would probably buy 100-500 of ea length.
My go-to is, https://boltdepot.com/Type_F_machine_screws
Good luck!
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Send me a text, my cell number is below.
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A virtual moment of silence, I will silence my DB 218 c.i. In the ‘38 for a minute in memory of one of the greatest DB historians in my lifetime, god speed my friend.
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Either way will work. Here is the drawing for the part number, this installation would follow your thoughts.
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Super easy: first lube the dust covers in oil, then stretch over the pedals.
Then, I placed mine between the top floor panel and the sound-deading mat.
Then put the rubber flooring on top.
All the weight of the mat and the rubber floor keep them locked in place.
These are the ones I used.
https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts/237-da-140-brake-clutch-pedal-draft-seals-pair.html
Going to be a few weeks before I can take photos.
Hope this helps.
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I’ve used many of the knobs/cables from here.
https://dcmclassics.com/lighting/141-i-188-dash-knob-kit.html
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9 hours ago, totolili said:
Alan,
Where did you find the 2 rubber side cushions for the radiator mounts? Thx
Made my own, from old rubber floor mat material. Another option is below.
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1 hour ago, totolili said:
I have another pair that I bought few years ago for my '41 that's needs restoration and they are more flexible and possibly if I oil them, I might be able to force it thru the pedals! These are for '29 thru 50s and my pedals look like yours and others on this forum or fb.
Yep, exact same pedals, they will stretch, you will have no problem.
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3 minutes ago, totolili said:
Hi Alan,
I already have what they are selling (https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts/237-da-140-brake-clutch-pedal-draft-seals-pair.html ) and they are showing a picture where it goes in, but the pedals are one piece and large. Do I make a small side cut? Thx
They stretch.....use a bit of clean vegetable oil or motor oil, to lube it up. No cuts on mine! Can you take a picture of your pedals?
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1 hour ago, totolili said:
hi Alan,
my 38 has the splash guards and like you, one was bolted and one was rivetted. I don't have these engine guards and small center piece. Do you have a picture as where they go and what are the protecting?
Thanks,
Anatole
Sure looking at the photo below, They all protect the engine from getting water splashed on it. The old timers would throw them away early, makes for servicing the engine a giant PIA!
1) Passenger side, Fender apron, riveted to the fender
2) Drivers side , Fender apron, riveted to the fender
3) Center Splash guard, bolts to No. 4 and No 5, sits under the front bottom crankshaft pully
4) Passenger side, Splash guard, bolts to the edge of the fender. Notice the holes for the fuel filter bowl and the exhaust pipe.
5) Driver side, splash guard, bolts to the edge of the fender (I think, memory is bad, will confirm)
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55 minutes ago, totolili said:
Hi Alan,
beautiful truck!!!
I tried to follow your posts as well as Vic's . I'm restoring a 38 and currently place/measuring/trying to see how it all fits as my 38 came with a 56 plymouth engine and I thought the rest were somehow original (except for the rear fenders - fiberglass).
I do have pictures from prior to taking it apart but not 100%.
I was working on the 2 piece that goes below the firewall. They looked to be original and the bolt holes match but some are harder to fit but I don't think the truck frame is bent. maybe I have a 37 pieces???
But my main question is about the clutch, brake, steering rod and gas pedal seals.
- Gas Pedal grommet fits in the hole but the actual hole is too big where the shaft goes thru. I saw yours and it looks like an accordion style. I bought my seals from Vic's Dodge and others sell the same type. Which is right?
- Clutch and Brake seals: When I ordered them, I didn't know the center hole would be so small and the rubber is not stretchable. Besides, the pedals are too wide. So, where do they go???
- Steering seal. The one I have again is similar that everyone is selling for 35-39 or so but my shaft is much larger and also why is this not shaped like a grommet? what am i missing?
if you have any pictures of your seals, I would appreciate. I won't use the starter rod as it will be push button instead.
Thanks!
Anatole
Thanks Anatole, best to call Steve Flockstra, at Dodge Central of Michigan. If you have a "Frankenstein" truck he would have all years of seals from the mid 1929's through the 1971's
If you send him a picture of what you have, he will be able to match up the correct parts.
https://dcmclassics.com/41-parts-by-year
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17 hours ago, keiser31 said:
I see in this ad the 1931 Dodge DH6 has whitewalls, so one is lead to believe that #1: They may have been an option on the 1931 Dodge Brothers DH6 cars. #2: They may also have been an option on the 1931 Dodge DG8 cars. I was not around in 1931 and I know of nobody who is who worked on the 1931 assembly lines, so I don't know for certain if whitewalls were an option, but this ad may tell the story. And...it may just be an artist's rendering and not an option at all.
Thank you John.
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Did OEM come with white walls?
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No, made my own from old rubber floor mat material.
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Finally got my copy, @West Peterson , you always make a great product, but this edition is WOW! 👍
Thank you so much!
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12 minutes ago, 30DodgePanel said:
Congrats Alan, you worked your tail off on that beauty.
I'm not an AACA member (yet) but hope to be able to read the article someday. You deserve it. Awesome job!
Dave
Thanks Dave,
The 'ol 38 is my pride and joy....7 years of restoration and parts collection. Invested in may ways!
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On 5/8/2023 at 2:53 PM, nearchoclatetown said:
He's hit the big time, he has a feature in the new AACA magazine for his 1938 DB pickup. I hope you are going to the DBC nat'l meet in the finger lakes in June. Sounds like it's going to be a big truck meet, not large trucks just a lot of them..
Hey, thanks a bunch! Have not seen the magazine yet, work has been taking me up and down the Pacific, from Portland to San Diego last few months...
Unfortunately, I can not come to the meet in June, new gig starts on June 19th...same week as the meet.
The ol' '38 has gotten a lot of attention lately...
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What would this be?
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Best I can do, had to pull this from my Dropbox, currently in Portland and not in the shop for a few weeks.
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The linkage is actually bolted to the top of the Bell House. This represents a Carter BB1 carburetor connection. The tail light bracket is one piece that bolts to the frame, with the bottom half used to connect the lic. plate. the light itself mounts through two studs off the back of the light through the bracket with lock washers and nuts. 1/2"
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37 half ton brake line routing front.
in Dodge Trucks
Posted
Driver Side, around the same location as the axel, there is another hole, fit the rubber hose with a c clip, then connect the rubber hose to the distribution block.