Alan Cutler

Driver Side, around the same location as the axel, there is another hole, fit the rubber hose with a c clip, then connect the rubber hose to the distribution block.

Run one up to the hole in the frame on the driver side near the drum, then plumb with rubber hose connectors using c clips to lock it in the frame. Run the passenger side to the front, then across the radiator support, then to the same hole on the frame on the passenger side, c-clip, then connect a rubber hose.

I became the caretaker of it in 2022. Yes, it was Ken Kenewell's, a 1930 Auburn 8-125.

My go-to is, https://boltdepot.com/Type_F_machine_screws Good luck!

Send me a text, my cell number is below.

A virtual moment of silence, I will silence my DB 218 c.i. In the ‘38 for a minute in memory of one of the greatest DB historians in my lifetime, god speed my friend.

https://dcmclassics.com/body-panels-repair-panels-mountsbolt-kits/411-b-716-cab-mounting-spring.html https://dcmclassics.com/body-parts/666-b-504-kit-cab-mounting-bolts-and-springs-39-47-steel.html?search_query=B-504&results=5 3 spring plus 1.

Either way will work. Here is the drawing for the part number, this installation would follow your thoughts.

Super easy: first lube the dust covers in oil, then stretch over the pedals. Then, I placed mine between the top floor panel and the sound-deading mat. Then put the rubber flooring on top. All the weight of the mat and the rubber floor keep them locked in place. These are the ones I used. https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts/237-da-140-brake-clutch-pedal-draft-seals-pair.html Going to be a few weeks before I can take photos. Hope this helps.

I’ve used many of the knobs/cables from here. https://dcmclassics.com/lighting/141-i-188-dash-knob-kit.html

Made my own, from old rubber floor mat material. Another option is below.

Yep, exact same pedals, they will stretch, you will have no problem.

They stretch.....use a bit of clean vegetable oil or motor oil, to lube it up. No cuts on mine! Can you take a picture of your pedals?

Sure looking at the photo below, They all protect the engine from getting water splashed on it. The old timers would throw them away early, makes for servicing the engine a giant PIA! 1) Passenger side, Fender apron, riveted to the fender 2) Drivers side , Fender apron, riveted to the fender 3) Center Splash guard, bolts to No. 4 and No 5, sits under the front bottom crankshaft pully 4) Passenger side, Splash guard, bolts to the edge of the fender. Notice the holes for the fuel filter bowl and the exhaust pipe. 5) Driver side, splash guard, bolts to the edge of the fender (I think, memory is bad, will confirm)

Thanks Anatole, best to call Steve Flockstra, at Dodge Central of Michigan. If you have a "Frankenstein" truck he would have all years of seals from the mid 1929's through the 1971's If you send him a picture of what you have, he will be able to match up the correct parts. https://dcmclassics.com/41-parts-by-year

Thank you John.

Did OEM come with white walls?

No, made my own from old rubber floor mat material.

Finally got my copy, @West Peterson , you always make a great product, but this edition is WOW! 👍 Thank you so much!

Thanks Dave, The 'ol 38 is my pride and joy....7 years of restoration and parts collection. Invested in may ways!

Hey, thanks a bunch! Have not seen the magazine yet, work has been taking me up and down the Pacific, from Portland to San Diego last few months... Unfortunately, I can not come to the meet in June, new gig starts on June 19th...same week as the meet. The ol' '38 has gotten a lot of attention lately...

What would this be?

Best I can do, had to pull this from my Dropbox, currently in Portland and not in the shop for a few weeks.

The linkage is actually bolted to the top of the Bell House. This represents a Carter BB1 carburetor connection. The tail light bracket is one piece that bolts to the frame, with the bottom half used to connect the lic. plate. the light itself mounts through two studs off the back of the light through the bracket with lock washers and nuts. 1/2"