Surf City '38

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Surf City '38

  1. Tips: 1) Make sure the front feet fit in between the front feet of your engine hoist. I've seen too many people try to make it fit and then the hoist or stand fall over. 2) A crank handle rather than a manual spin for rotating, makes it much easier to rotate the engine to work on the bottom end. 3) Get the maximum weight capacity that still works with #1 and #2 above. This is the current model I am using now....very solid unit.
  2. Do you have or access to a Hollander interchange book?
  3. Hi Dave, I saw a few years back, a photo of a celebration picnic in a park, near the Hamtramck plant, and I seem to remember that the Dodge Company had their own band....could that be the band in the photo?
  4. Should just pop off, after you remove the big nut, rather than using a pulley puller, try a ball joint wedge....tap it in opposite sides all the way around the spline. (Love the video's BTW.)
  5. And will last a lifetime, since there are no moving parts.
  6. I have seen using the original cut out housing and modernizing it with a diode inside...thereby keeping the"look" original. Was totally custom and not off the shelf. Worked and looked fine.
  7. Thanks Pete, when you say etching, do you mean the manufactures mark?
  8. Thanks for the clarification, Laminated glass it is.
  9. Interesting, wonder just how far back manufactures went with this feature. Was thinking that the top of the line models (Caddy, Cord, Packard) would have, but the more affordable units would not.
  10. Had an interesting question pop up, to my knowledge plastic sandwiched between two pieces of glass was not used until late 50's and up...but I had a person tell me that their "all original" 1937 Caddy came with safety glass all the way around except for the rear window....Does anyone know if Dodge did this?
  11. Hi Bob, very helpful for sure, I will make the adjustment. Logically, the way I saw this was since the inner manifolds are not completely shouldered, meaning not a complete hole with 360 degrees of shoulder surface, then the brass and cone would spread the torque better, and this is why I placed them in the center manifold shoulders.... But when thinking about the effect of heat on cast iron, this makes total sense to allow the flex on the outer manifolds in relation to the inner "chunk" of cast. 👍
  12. Finished off today.... 1) Exhaust from manifold to tailpipe.... 2) The PItA splash tin.....(am not looking forward to removing them in the future once the fenders & radiator are in) Was thinking to tack a small weld to the nut side.....
  13. They did my mounts and axle to frame bumpers, came back with the correct part number embossed in the sure to mic the original thickness prior to sending out, you will find that when you get it back it will stand up a bit taller in the engine get mine to fit back in, I had to take my hydraulic frame/body jacks to spread the frame apart to get it to align with the bolt holes....
  14. +1 on that, the local shop had all mine in stock...
  15. 6.5" - 16", Five lug, with a centering pin.....need 5. The red photo below is the correct wheel The below photo is to show the bolt pattern and centering pin holes only.
  16. Quick update, turned the distributor, built period correct spark plug wires, and bent 3/16 vacuum line to the up is exhaust down pipe, silencer and tail pipe, splash guards and cab....
  17. Call J&S Gear Co. in HB, ask for John...he replaced all my bearings and located a NOS pumpkin. All in was less than $300.
  18. Fabricated a new door stop mount inside the drivers side A pillar...I added a 1/8 inch back brace then slide the mount through it...tight space for a weld. Put some mud on the front and will respray.
  19. Found a close replacement, fits many applications, ‘37 MC, ME & MF, ‘38 RE and RF, ‘37 Plymouth this one is period correct, just a bit off on the Application.