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  1. Hello everyone. This car is for sale now. I got it to a good running driving state and I am sure someone else can take it to the next level. Someone with more time/money/space than myself. Fun project, just short on resources. I posted an ad in the classifieds section.
  2. Hello Gents, After running out of gas two times in one month....I need to fix this.... 1957 Buick Super. I redid the fuel tank and installed a new level sender in the process. I used a classic instruments SN-36 sender. 0 - 30 Ohms. Here is a picture of the sender. https://www.flickr.com/photos/31536204@N00/13940928979/in/album-72157644211511872/ Long story short: After getting installed and hooking up the wire, I get no reading on the fuel gauge in the dash. So I attached a ground wire between the fuel tank flange and the chassis (ground paint for clean contact). Still, no reading. I am now moving on to the dashboard and cluster. The mechanical gauges in the dash work (water temp, oil press) and also also generator gauge works. But I have no backlighting and no speedometer/trip meter/odometer. Could the gauge be the culprit? I am hesitant to tear into the cluster. Is 0-30 Ohm even the correct range for the factory gauge? Maybe I will just mount an aftermarket fuel level gauge somewhere inconspicuous.... All Input welcome! (PS, this car is for sale). Thanks!
  3. Valve cover gaskets were replaced during the resurrection process. But I will check them closer. Still trying to figure out where this oil is coming from.... Anyway, electric fuel pump REALLY reduced cranking time!!! Thanks for the tip. She starts from cold much faster now. I have been driving it. She is a joy! Still not sure what my long term plans are going to be....Keep her and street rod it, or sell....who knows. But for now she is a fun runner!
  4. I know if is hard to see in the video, but there is oil accumulation more on the passenger side than driver side. Just not sure how much I am looking for. I confirmed that the oil leak in the picture is NOT coming from the valve cover, the head is dry above the exh manifold. I guess that would lead to only one conclusion that the head gasket has an oil leak. Next time I fire up the car I will inspect that area and see if I can see the leak in action. It is dripping right on to the starter, then on to my exhaust pipe resulting in some burning smells. On good note, there is not rust in this area!
  5. Still waiting for a few last parts to get the electric pump installed. In the meantime, maybe you guys can help figure out where this oil leak is coming from... We have the starter at the bottom front and center, coated in oil. You can see a drop if oil gathering on the engine block just above it. That drop seems to be coming from the head gasket area. Is this a common leak point? Any experience in this area? I originally thought the oil leak was my rear main seal, but after spending some up close and personal time with flashlight, I see it looks to be coming from the head gasket seam. Speaking of rear main, I took the flex plate inspection cover off and took a look inside. Does this look like a leaking rear main to you?
  6. Great idea with the bypass/check parallel to the electric pump. I think I will run it that way. Thanks for the advice guys.
  7. I have a pump I will throw on there, just have to figure out where I should grab ignition power from..... Will the electric pump push fuel through the mechanical pump? Or I am supposed to not use the mechanical pump? I can talk for days about EFI fuel pumps and the minutia of the modern fuel systems, but I am still a rookie with carbs.....
  8. OK Gents. Seems that the KW stuff fixed the leak! Well, for now anyway. I have done 3 full-temperature 20-minute drives on it since the repair and it has not leaked a drop of water. This is very good news, however I am not naive, I am still going to continue to track down an engine to rebuild. And, to make sure my interest is kept, the car is showing signs of a leaking rear main. Oh Joy. Any tips on how to improve cold-starting? I am using a manual choke, but still have to crank it for quite a while.
  9. OK Gents, decided to try Willie's advice and us the KW stuff. I mean, what do I have to lose besides $9? Spent the better part of yesterday filling/flushing/draining the coolant system as instructed on the KW can. I am glad I did this because I got a lot of rust out of the system that I guess I missed when I ran a garden hose through it last time. I must have flushed it more than 10 times. Followed all the instructions on the can to a Tee, and now the car is "drying", which is basically sitting with the cooling system drained and open for 24 hours, this is the last step of the process. Then I am supposed to refill and see how it works. Will let you know if it really is a miracle in a can... By the way, I can see part of the crack, maybe 1.5 inches, but majority is behind the starter. Its a horizontal crack. Will keep my ear to the ground for another engine as well. Crossing my fingers!
  10. OK. I got the car back. Exhaust looks great for a $400 job. No complaints, it gets the job done. When I got back home, I parked the car and let it cool. Checked back a few hours later and there is a small puddle of water under it. WATER IS LEAKING FROM THE BLOCK. The crack is located mostly behind the starter. I would have to take out the starter to get a really good look, but I estimate it is 5 to 6 inches long. It is definitely leaking at a rate that I cannot ignore. SOooooooo..... What do you guys recommend I do? Put in a different Nailhead? Some sort of coolant additive? JB weld? Pull the engine and have a machine shop stitch it? Stitch it myself? Sell the car? All input is welcome. Keep in mind I am on a time and $ budget and I am not building a concourse car. Thank you! UPDATE: Friend is locating a good core to rebuild for me. Hopefully he finds something.
  11. Holy cow, looks labor intensive, but effective. I guess I need to see this crack for myself and see if it actually starts to leak. If not leak, then I will not worry about it.
  12. Sooooo........ Exhaust shop said they see a crack in the engine block, but no coolant is leaking out.....Probably from water freezing in there while it has been sitting the past 30 years. When i drove it to the exhaust shop, it got up to operating temp and was not leaking, so maybe the crack is rust-sealed....ha ha ha ha... I think I am going to buy a few cans or radiator stop-leak. Any other suggestions/guidance?
  13. SHE DRIVES! Yes, finally got to take it on it's maiden voyage and everything went fairly well. Brakes stopped the car, power steering worked great, and the transmission seemed to be functioning at an acceptable level. I only took it on a short trip to the near by exhaust shop to get a system built (she was running with open manifolds). When I get it back, it will be much more drivable and I will really be able to assess how everything is working. But, so far so good!
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