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rapom

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Everything posted by rapom

  1. The functionality is not replicated. You lose the ability to pull in outside air with the vintage air system. Which in theory makes it more efficient. But you still have all the defrost, heat, floor, and vent systems hooked up to the existing vents. Console ductwork system is bypassed in my system but might be used with some creative thinking.
  2. If you install a Vintage air system, everything is under the dash and none of the air box and components on the firewall in the engine compartment are needed. I had to make a large blockoff plate for the firewall. So, your engine compartment wouldn't look stock anyway unless you are leaving that stuff in also. New compressor bolts in the factory front bracket and the rear bracket using a spacer. I know if you do a search you can find an install thread on this forum. It's been a while since I installed the system so I can't remember any part nos. off the top of my head. When I installed mine, I think the underdash unit is the next size down from the biggest.
  3. Those are some old gages. I remember buying a set of those at Farm & Fleet back in the 80's. I used them my Camaro to replace some idiot lights and they worked great. My set came with a volt gage instead of the amp gage you have.
  4. I like to see gages because you get a better feel for your car over time and know if somethings up ahead of time when you are used to seeing them in a particuler spot. I was surprised at the oil pressure difference when I went from 10w-30 to 10w-40. My engine is tired and my idle pressure hot is about 5psi with the 10w-30 and 10psi at 10w-40. Highway was 20psi and is now 29psi with the the 10w-40. Plus I'm always amazed at how much higher my oil pressure is after an oil change. The old oil doesn't smell like gas so there can't be to much gas getting passed the rings. The temp is the most interesting to watch. It hovers around 180 which matches the theromostat 90% of the time. But on hot days with the A/C on it can get close to 195. I have a slow water pump leak and about once a month or every 500 miles I have to top off the radiator. I always know it's getting low when the gage starts swings between 190 and 180 while driving letting me know the coolant is low because the thermostat is cycling. If you get a quality brand of gages you should have no gage problems. Plus I still have all the stock idiot lights hooked up so I have no surprises. But like others have said there are few places for gages in these cars without customizing things.
  5. I used the Stewart warner green line gages because they closely matched the factory instrument gages. Plus I used aluminum gage pods to get the angle right.
  6. I like that idea. I may buy two from him. On eBay they are as low as $75. But I would like to see them in person. I just wanted to drive up to Dearborn so I could chose one with the patina that matches the rest of my car. One thing I worried about is whether or not he has one without any pits in the metal. My car was a desert car so there wasn’t any pits even though it was weathered.
  7. Thanks again for the info. I hit a deer with my left front turn signal and it shattered the pot metal and lens so I need to find one with the right patina
  8. Thank you, I ‘ve done business with him in the past. Just couldn’t find his contact info.
  9. Anyone know the name and phone number of the guy in Dearborn Heights that dismantles 1st. gen Rivieras?
  10. GV installation is not for the faint of heart. Major floor hump and frame surgery is needed to use it. My car is a daily driver rat rod that sees a lot of highway miles so I had to do something. Not sure if I would want to do it to a nice riv. That being said. It's nice to have the extra gear to knock down the 3.07 gear when doing 75 mph. Here's a link with some pics. I solved the shudder on takeoff problem a couple of months ago by lowering the carrier bearing pad inside the x-frame about 1".
  11. I have seen on forums were the Sebring seats needed the computer and I have also seen where they didn’t. All I hooked up was the power wire so the seat adjustments worked. I did test my seat belts by slamming on the brakes to see if they held and they did. The article where you needed computer was on a Corvair site.
  12. Those ought to be a lot more comfortable than stock. I did the same thing but I used Chrysler Sebring Conv. seats since they also have seat belts.
  13. I’m pretty sure Sea foam is just a fuel additive where mmo can be used in both oil and fuel.
  14. I like to put 6oz of MMO to a full tank of gas. Besides helping keep the combustion chamber clean it adds a little lube to the gas which keeps the ring and bore wear down.
  15. I found that the Stewart Warner green line closely matched the font and style of the factory gages. I also used aluminum angled gage pods to try and match the angle of the factory panel. I like how bright your gages look. I have the stock look but mine are brighter because I used 194 bulbs in place of the stock ones.
  16. I bought mine with the pertronix installed and my coil looks stock. I have about 10k miles on it so far.
  17. They are the same in appearance but the way they attach is different for each year.
  18. Saw this riv at an auto cross event early summer of last year. I don’t know any details but it looks like some money was spent on it. I wish I would of took more pictures.
  19. I have a rattle that jingles when I hit a bump and it comes from the rear on the driver's side. Is this the rattle you guys are talking about? I thought it might be the brake cable but everything looks tight. I pulled the rear brake drums and all the components looked tight. I was going to throughly check this out in this winter.
  20. My stereo has knobs, cd, aux jack, and USB memory stick plug in plus it matchs the dash really nice. But while it looks good in my car I'm not sure it would look good in a stock interior.
  21. I start running it about two tanks before storage.( I drive a lot so it only takes about 2 weeks to run through two tanks) Also use it in my small engines.
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