Larry W

I was in Beloit WI recently for my niece's wedding, and road past Bud Weiser Motors. It's still in business.

I remember Larry Foran Ford in South Milwaukee, Wisconsin. All of the Fords there were domestics, and I saw my first real Edsel there.

I have no argument with those who say keep the Jeep. However, I once owned a second hand '84 Citation (4cyl. automatic), and was quite pleased with it overall. The two weak points that I remember was the rack and pinion steering and the idle air control valve. If the power steering seems to bind, especially when cold, the entire unit will eventually need to be replaced. (There should've been a recall). If it won't idle at stop lights, you'll need to replace the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve on the throttle body. Other than that, only diligent regular maintenance may be all that's required. Tough decision, good luck!

Good luck! Be sure to lubricate moving parts. I think white lithium grease is recommended, but I'm not sure. Shop manual should tell.

I love it when a plan comes together! Thanks for letting us know how things turned out. Larry W

As an addendum to Rusty's great advice, when searching for a slow leak in a tire, I use a kiddie pool with a little bit of dish soap for large areas and human saliva works best for an isolated area.

Hey Keiser, I feel the same way about getting old, but it sure beats the only alternative!

I have a factory installed theft deterrent system on my '75 Olds.

In addition to the excellent advice given thus far, I believe that there may be a difference between tubes for radial and biased ply tires. Also, I've always used powdered soap stone when mounting tubes in tires. BTW, I'll be doing the same with my '55 Ford Customline 2dr sedan! (Let's see some photos!)

Excessive end play (which is what I think I had) can be just as bad, if not worse, than too little end play. At any rate, neither condition is good, so it's worth having a careful look at. Good luck; let us know what you find. Larry W

Okay, FWIW, my second car was a '65 Mustang with a 289 cid and 3 speed manual shift. Besides having a clutch chatter, every now and again the engine would be hard to crank. It wasn't due to the battery or starting system, the engine would just seem to bind up. The only way to get it going was to roll along and "pop" the clutch. All this was driving me crazy. I took the clutch apart and resurfaced the flywheel and replaced the disc (twice), also checked flywheel runout and crankshaft end play, all within spec. I never fixed the problem and eventually sold the car. Some years laterI drove a Ford stake truck with a 6 cyl / stick that had the same clutch chatter. The only thing that I can figure is that even though the crankshaft end play was in spec (barely), the lateral position of the crankshaft would shift enough to cause the engine to bind up. I believe that a tighter end play spec would have solved this problem. I don't know if you have a clutch chatter, but the engine binding sounds a lot like my Mustang. My suggestion would be to check and maybe tighten up on the crankshaft end play. I invite others to weighin on my theory. Larry W

Thanks for posting photos. Been through Wilmot many times. Have a buddy that lives west of there, just before the bend on HM.

My first thought is the radiator cap. Is it holding the pressure that it's rated for? I believe that non A/C cars had 7lb caps and A/C equipped cars had about 14 or 15lb rated caps. (Check your specs in your shop manual.) Are you assuming that the motor is over heating because the red idiot "hot" light is coming on? I had a similar situation with my dad's '65 Impala. Replaced the water pump, radiator, etc, etc, and the red light still kept coming on, although the motor never seemed abnornormaly hot and never boiled over. The mystery was solved one day when the red hot light came on along with the green cold light together. Sending unit replacement was all that was required. Let us all know what you finally discover as the cause of your problem. Larry W

If it has a single filament light socket, it probably is a back-up light. Dual filament may make it a front directional.

My dad bought a '73 Maverick brand new. It was a nice car, but a plumber's nightmare when addressing the pollution controls. The one you have pictured looks like it may have been modified somewhat. That's okay if the vehicle runs good and will not have to undergo an emmisiions test at any time that you own it. ANY VEHICLE THAT YOU BUY, gMAKE SURE IT PASSES AN EMIISSION TEST BEFORE YOU HAND OVER ANY MONEY, IF IT WILL BE SUBJECT TO TESTING BEFORE YOU REGISTER IT OR WHILE YOU OWN IT!!!!

I know that this is a fairly common vehicle, but I'm not that knowledgable about the cars of this vintage. Thanks!

Maybe the guy died! Check the obits.

91%. Or 40/44. Just lucky I guess. Now to pick some lottery numbers.

I once had a'71 Pinto and I believe the factory recall fix for the exploding gas tank was to mount a sheet of plastic between the rear axle and the gas tank. I didn't have it very long, but the only trouble I had, besides rust, was that the automatic transmission just stopped pulling the car at an intersection. A friend gave me an identical transmission which he happened to have lying around, and the car was back on the road. Because I owned too many cars at the time, I sold the Pinto to a co-worker. A few days, later I inquired to him on how he liked the car and he told me that the engine timing belt had broken the day after he bought it. Oh well, aside from all that, I thought it was a pretty nice car.

. Visit an auto body supply store and ask them.

Along with Fresh-Cab, I also use mothballs, Irish Spring soap, and Bounce dryer sheets. I figure one of them is bound to work. I suppose I'll get started on preparation real soon.

. I believe that this has already been tried in Wisconsin. Search "Business Bungalows of Menomonee Falls ".

It may seem a little odd, but see if you can find a Car Crazy kid to accomplish the task "at hand". When I was much younger I would have jumped at the chance to wrench on a car, especially during a boring summer vacation, and especially if there was a couples of dollars in it for me. Just supervise closely. Let us know if you try this and if it works out.

I could be wrong, but usually a letter suffix denotes a minor change, hopefully an improvement to the original part. The part should still be usable in the original application. But, like I stated, I Could be wrong.

. Or maybe '55-'56 Mercury.