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Joshhirst13

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About Joshhirst13

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  • Birthday 01/02/1979

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  1. Hey guys. So I think I'm 95% sure I've got it figured out. I pulled the Daytona needle valve & put the old style needle valve back in. Put everything back together & ran car for 30 min. I couldn't get the car to reproduce the fuel spitting issue with the old style needle valve. Knock on wood. I'm gonna have to give it another In N Out drive thru test on a hot day to really know for sure. That being said I think I must have had the float adjusted wrong with the new style Daytona needle valve. I never adjusted the float when I rebuilt the carb. I just assumed they both used the same fl
  2. Ok. Thanks again to all involved trying to help me out. So today I lubricated the heat riser butterfly. The spring seemed to be keeping the butterfly too open so I disconnected the spring & it allowed the butterfly to close completely. This seemed to help some but the carb still ended up spurting fuel. Here's something I came up with today, but I'm gonna have to pull the carb & open it up again to check. When I rebuilt the carb it came with a new type of needle valve called a "Daytona Float Valve". Instead of the tapered needle it's flat with a rubber seal on bottom (see attached pics)
  3. Also how would an electric fuel pump solve this issue????
  4. Hey guys. Thanks for all the great info. I thought that possibly the heat riser might be stuck. Doesn't seem to be the heat riser. I lubricated it & made sure it was moving freely. Ran the car & still did the same thing. Where would I get an aluminum heat shield to put between the carb & manifold. I already have a thicker fibrous one in place, which may or may not be working. I still need to try insulating the fuel lines & I wouldn't say the fuel lines are not that close to the manifold. Maybe 8-10 inches away. I'm going to also try checking the thermostat to see if the motor
  5. I just had the carb apart before I made the video. I believe that the hole is above the bowl & not the needle valve. I checked the float. No leaks. I did replace the fuel pump with a rebuilt mechanical pump from Kantar a few months ago. It does seem like it could be a heat issue. It only happens after the car has been driven a few miles. Maybe I need to work on the cooling system. I'm stumped.
  6. Hey guys. It's been awhile since I've posted. Sorry. Got a quick question to see if anyone can help. I can't figure it out. I've got a 1950 Buick & after I drive it for about 15 min. It's starts to stall or act like it's gonna die while sitting at a stop light or a drive thru. I parked it in the driveway, opened the hood & watched the carb. Every time it would try to stall gas would shoot out of a hole in the side of the carb. I took the carb apart & blew it out & checked the needle & seat, which is the new flat style with a rubber pad on it that seats.
  7. Here are some pics of my truck. Hope you enjoy. Thanks, Josh
  8. Here are some pics of my truck. Hope you enjoy. Thanks, Josh
  9. Hi Guys, I'm not new to the aaca forums as I have a 1850 Buick that I'm always posting for, but I am new to the truck forum. I've got a 1957 GMC Longbed that I've had for a little over a year now. She's not perfect by any means. Needs paint, disc brakes, new interior, & the 350 chevy motor in her isn't running great, but she's mine & I love her. Anyways I've been trying to locate the driver side deluxe cab trim that wraps around the back of the cab &' goes below the back window. I've seen that the sell replacement sets for $120.00.-$200.00 depending where you get it, but I'd really
  10. Keep it disconnected because of possibility of fire????
  11. Yes. That's what I believe was happening.
  12. Hey guys. So I got ll the fluids back in the Buick this morning. Started it up & the grinding noise happened immediately, which was odd because it usually took a a few min for it to happen. So I popped the hood & looked at the wires on the carb for the ignition. & what I found was a bunch of bare wires. One of which was laying directly on the metal carb. I moved the wire off of the carb & BOOM!!!!! No grinding. Fired right up & was quite as can be. Now I've got some wires to fix, which is at better that lying on my back for hours on end. Ha ha. Sooooo now for the comedy par
  13. Hey guys. Hers a few pics of the car your helping get back on the road. Thanks for all of your help.
  14. Hey guys. So I was thinking last night. Which is usually a bad idea. Ha ha. do you guys think it's possible that somehow the gas pedal ignition start is somehow engaging the starter while the car is already running? Or is this not possible? If it is possible is it a wiring issue or something getting stuck???? I may be way off, but thought I would throw it out there. I also drained the torque converter today & dont see any metal flakes in the old fluid. I also finished getting the oil pan & trans pan back on today. What a pain in the ass that was. The old trans pan gasket was a bitch t
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