Tom Boehm
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Posts posted by Tom Boehm
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Yes, I am going to add horizontal ribs like were there originally. I am waiting to install them on the quarter panel and tailgate until I finish the doors to ensure they are all in a straight line. I identified an interference issue with the window track and the front door hinge bolts on the pine prototype. I am going to drill new holes in the hinges and move the bolts over. I can't figure out why that was not a problem on the original front doors (that I don't have).
I need to check for interference between the latch and the window and how that was addressed on the original back doors that I do have. The one original door latch that I do have I think is mounted at an angle to avoid the path of the window. That original door latch was standard General Motors hardware. I obtained 3 more like it. (I got lefts and rights). I studied all this before in the original door but it is worth verifying everything is good before I make the final doors in ash.
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I was told to use cotton quilt batting available at fabric stores for roof padding on my woodie station wagon. Also, I was told not to use foam or synthetic or man made padding because it will break down in summer heat. Cotton quilt batting is pretty thin, about 1/8"thick. Multiple layers can be used if you want. Trimacar on this forum gave me these hints.
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Possibly an exhaust pipe hanger or clamp? A missing U bolt could go through the two holes in the top?
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I just did a quick google search for tire paint. I saw various brands of both black and white.......... Could you mix them to make gray? (that is if they have similar binders in the paint). If that won't work then could you add white pigment to common black tire paint? Or black pigment to white tire paint? Possibly some research into what is in the paint to ensure compatibility would be needed.
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I have used Tarn X silver cleaner to remove tarnish from brass. It is available at any hardware store. It is a liquid that instantly removes tarnish if you dip an object in it. Then rinse it with water. After the tarnish is gone you can polish it if you want with Brasso or other metal polish. I should mention the Tarn X label says not to use it on brass but I don't know why. I use it on brass with no apparent negative consequences. The active ingredient in Tarn X is different than that in Flitz tarnish remover.
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Both responses are good advice. To expand on the post by PlymouthCranbrook, with a Preval be sure to spend the extra time to experiment with different proportions of thinner to get the mix right. If the mix is just a little too thick the spray pattern will be smaller but the chance of runs is much less. I do this with small parts where it is not worth getting out the spray gun. With a larger flat area it probably is better to thin the paint just enough to get the largest spray pattern and no more. Spray some clean thinner just to see the size of the spray pattern.
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Every so often a first time poster asks a ridiculous question that I suspect is only intended to get everyone wound up. Most of the time they post a picture of a nice old car with no details and ask how to street rod it. I guess the OP is entertained by the sincere predictable responses.
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I now have seats! The whole seat project took over a year. The driver seat is comfortable. It is firm and I don't sink down. I'm glad I chose the distressed leather. It adds warmth and patina along with all the new materials. It goes very well with the other interior colors. The cushions are leather. The sides and the backs are vinyl. I was able to re-use the original seat legs and floor sockets for the second and third seats. To create more cargo space, the second seat can be removed and the third seat moved forward. That is why there are 2 extra floor sockets on the passenger side.
The upholsterer is Paul Rose of Custom Interiors & Restorations of Ridgeway, Ohio.
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Another guess: a beltline molding for a station wagon ? Over the quarter panel
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Bloo and Rusty have the right answer. Here is a link to a Youtube video posted by a guy who restores antique tools. He experimented to find a formula for an authentic japan finish. If you are really concerned with authenticity, it is probably possible to reproduce japanning. If not, then just use any modern black paint. Like Bloo, I have seen japanning on antique door locks and other old cast iron hardware. Maybe white pigment was added to the black japan paint to make gray. I can't imagine it possible to make any other color in japan paint?
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Restoration Specialties carries glass setting channel also. I used # 4516A, but pick the one that fits your window.
https://www.restorationspecialties.com/assets/pdfs/page_38.pdf
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1939 50 series Lasalle and 1939 Cadillac series 61 might work also.
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Your finger jointed interior curves turned out nice. What are you doing for seats? Were the originals in the car when you got it? If so, are you able to save them and get them re- covered? What are you going to use, leather? vinyl? I just got mine back from the upholsterer on Friday. I will post pictures as soon as I can get someone to help me lift them into the car.
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These pictures would be of most value to the owners of the cars. Is it possible to pass them on to them? It would be documentation of the restoration work.
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I'm so glad you post about your projects. They are always interesting and sometimes I learn something. What an innovative solution to a unique problem. Did you think of using fiberglass? Even if it had been done before, you had the skills to make it work.
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So Rejuventated, did you see the car? Did you buy it? Don't leave us hanging. Inquiring minds want to know.
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Nothing comes up when I click on the links in the previous post. Am I doing something wrong? Does anyone else have this problem?
The pictures will answer his questions.
Series 50 means it is a Lasalle. The rest are Cadillacs. Each has a different body design or front end styling. Series does not indicate body type such as coupe, sedan, convertible, etc.
Later on the series numbers were replaced with model names such as Calais, Deville, Eldorado, etc.
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Pay the $35 and be grateful a custom made reproduction part was available at any price. That's less than a fill up at the gas station.
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I will get my completed seats back soon. The big steps left to do are the doors, and the metal body painting. Other smaller steps include installing the top fabric, dashboard, and wiring harness. I would say I am about two thirds finished.
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I don't need another one. I'm not finished with the one I have. If I ever do this again, a convertible sedan is high on my list. Are you able to do your own work on this car? There are a lot of unknowns in a car that has been sitting, even if it is restored. There is potentially a lot of work and expense to get everything "sorted". By that I mean everything working properly and reliably. Don't overpay for this car. I am not trying to discourage you from getting this car. Just be aware that just because a car is restored doesn't mean everything works properly. You may be experienced and know all this already.
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The VIN is not on the firewall tag. The VIN is the engine number or the frame number. I have a 1940 Lasalle and the engine and frame number are the same. So I don't know which will be on the title of a 1937.
Is this car you are considering a restoration project?
I agree, I don't think a modern "collision shop" is the best option. All they do is paint and replace parts. A shop specializing in classic car restoration would be good. Another option is a street rod shop. Even though this car is probably all stock, they have the skills to do this work.
I don't know what gauge metal was used on the old cars. I do know that modern sheet metal on cars is thinner but harder than the old cars. The old car metal is softer and thus can be shaped.
The car in Louisville was an extreme restoration project/parts car.
The firewall tag will tell the model number (5029), the body number which is the xxx th Lasalle convertible sedan built that year, a code for the original exterior color, a code for the original interior color and/or material, and possibly a code for any (SO) special order items put on by the factory.
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11 hours ago, JFranklin said:
Linoleum is used in many houses over wood plank floors and holds up well.
That is true. I didn't consider that. I think linoleum was in use before plywood. There is a woven burlap backing in the linoleum I used.
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What does everyone else think about the possibility of the linoleum cracking between planks? I don't have any first hand experience with that happening but I think it's a possibility as the linoleum ages and gets harder.
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Restoration Specialties has that material on page 113 of their catalog. Like someone above said, they call it jute but it is not.
1940 Lasalle woodie restoration pictures
in National Woodie Club
Posted · Edited by Tom Boehm (see edit history)
Shootey, your chances of finding those handles are increased if it can be determined what other cars they might have been used on. You have one already so finding that out should be easier. Have you spoken to The Handleman? He is a vendor who only carries old car handles. He is a participant on this forum. He lives in one of the Carolinas. He identifies handles on the "what is it" section of this forum. I got handles to match the one remaining on my car from him. I share you wariness of chrome platers.