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Everything posted by wishbone

  1. Got it running....and it runs very well and smooth. Slow to accelerate still. I have to "feather" it up gradually. But very smooth motor now. I then backed it out of the garage and drove around the driveway a bit....I just had too....it's been three years sitting on blocks! But not much power in forward gears. Hmmm? I jacked up the rear and the rear brakes are dragging a little. I can still turn them by hand, but I feel resistance and hear the shoes. I'm hoping that is the main issue. The front is the same. New shoes (cylinders, hoses, springs, etc) on all four corners. They could be just a little stiff. Tomorrow I'll back them off a bit to see if that helps. But a step in the right direction nonetheless. thanks for your comments, E
  2. Thanks for the thoughts guys. I'll try testing with another gauge first. It might take a while though, as the packard takes a smaller than standard size spark plug. I'll have to either fabricate an adapter, or locate one. I was reluctant to use two gaskets at first, but if in fact my compression is that high, then it might just be worth it for temporary until I get my new head machined (but not too much!). thanks again, E
  3. I've been working on my 1938 Packard Six and discovered that the head had been milled too much which caused a couple of exhaust valves to hit and bend. I followed some advice from this site and relieved the area in the head above the valves, put in new exhaust valves (lapped), and re-installed the head with a new head gasket. I got the engine running pretty quickly and let it come up to temp. Next morning I re-torqued the head as per usual. Then I decided to test the compression for kicks. I'm getting numbers like 140-145 lbs. Higher than I reported before. If I'm not mistaken this engine is suppose to be in the 87 lbs range. This just seems wildly high. I'm wondering if I actually need to relieve the block just to make it run easier. I have to admit...it seems a little restrained with the throttle response. Hmmm??? Anyone experience this before? thanks, E
  4. Update: Well, I've relieved the head above each exhaust valve by .010-.012. It's more than what I need by a margin...let's hope. One thing I started to wonder is: with the head milled so far down, did I lose too much flow? Would it be beneficial (or necessary) to relieve the block like the hot rodders do in order to regain some flow over to the cylinder? Now is the time to do it...although kinda hard and messy doing it in the car. The only reason I'm questioning it is because the compression on the other cylinders was so darn high (130-135 lbs). I think this engine is suppose to have roughly 87 lbs. compression. Obviously my gauge could be off by a margin, but 40 lbs more seems to be a clear indication that my compression has been significantly increased by the loss of transfer area in the head. Any thoughts? thanks,
  5. Don, I ended up JB welding mine back together. I think it will work in the short term. I have a bronze casting foundry and think that this is something that will be fun to make a pattern for and cast. Something a little different. I suppose I could use aluminum too....anyways, thanks for the offer. -Erik
  6. Don, Mine is cast...but I'm okay with a steel one as long as it fits. Are they the same size and shape? How much are you wanting for one? thanks a bunch for the response, E
  7. My water inlet/thermostat housing is cracked and leaking. I could try to repair it, but I'd rather just find another to replace it. If anyone has one or knows of someone who might, I'd appreciate the tip. thanks, E
  8. Alrighty then, no double head gasket it is. I am leaning towards relieving the head like some have said. My car is not a show car or very valuable money wise...so doing a little experimenting might be fun and okay. I think that I'll buy the head I saw on ebay anyways...just in case I screw something up. If I end up using the new head, I'll do the clay trick before having it machined so the machinist will have an idea of how much he can safely take off. thanks again, E
  9. Hey Packard people, My water inlet/thermostat housing is cracked and leaking....looking for a replacement. If you have one or know of someone who might, I'd appreciate the contact. Many thanks, E
  10. Hey all, thanks for the responses. I finally had some spare time to get back to the Packard and it's low or no compression problem. The leak down test pointed to the exhaust valve on cylinder number six as a possible problem so when I finally removed the head and look things over, I discovered that the valve was hitting the head (hammering it actually). When the shop machined the head I guess they either took too much off, or it had been machined before and this time around it was just a little too much. So it looks like I either have to track down another head (ebay...has a couple) or perhaps stack a couple of gaskets (??), or maybe relieve the area where the valves where hitting with a die grinder? Along with replacing the bent valves of course. Anyone ever relieve a head in this way? Looks to be enough material there. While doing this work, I also discovered the source of my coolant leak near the water inlet and it looks like I need a new water inlet housing. If anyone has one, I'm in the market. So mystery solved. I'm glad I posted here though, because now I have a whole arsenal of good information for the next time I have a similar problem. Thanks! -E
  11. Update: Like I posted earlier, after giving the engine a compression test (just the easiest first test for me to give), I discovered that it was extremely low on cylinder 6. I then researched how to do a leak down test in order to discover "why" it was low. I made up a tester and only applied 50 lbs. to each of the cylinders at TDC. No. 6, as suspected did not hold pressure...very little at least. I could hear air coming from the tail pipe and the adjacent spark plug hole. Exhaust valve and head gasket it would appear. I removed the head and everything looked just fine. Cylinder walls still show cross hatching, valve appear just fine, and the head gasket was perfect. My guess is that the head is not flat and therefore the gasket wasn't sealing (??). As well I suppose the valve and/or valve spring need replace. I don't have a valve spring tester, so I figure I'll just order new ones. Also, I'm wondering if the valve guides might be a little tight?? A couple of notes about the head gasket: I did not paint it with copper of aluminum paint prior to installation. Also I put in new head studs, but some of them went in deeper than others...so with the new chrome acorn nuts and thick chrome washers, I suspect that the nuts didn't have as many threads for purchase as others. I may for leave out the washer or use a thin grade 8 washer instead of the shiny thick chrome ones. Anything obvious jump out at anyone? Something else to check while I'm at it. thanks,
  12. Thanks for all the good input...especially about being systematic. I just now finally found a few minutes to tinker on it again and decided to give it a compression test for starters. According to my old rubber tipped compression tester I came up with some high numbers (130- 135 lbs.) on all but number six cylinder, which has maybe 10 lbs.... ugh. 130 seems a bit high, but I don't know what it should be. Nonethelss, it is accurate enough to show that number six is goofy. I removed the rear valve cover to make sure that the valves were moving...and they are, but I ran out of daylight and time to get the engine warm again to reset the valve clearances. I'm hoping that it's a result of not setting the clearances with the engine running. I did do it with the engine well warmed up, but by the time I got to number six maybe things cooled off enough to alter the accuracy. Seems a little weird, though, that only one cylinder is way low...? In answer to the question about the water distribution tube: I used thin stainless steel sheet metal and made it in two pieces with continous soldered seems the length of it and a soldered cap at the end. The seems where crimped as well. I used the highest heat solder available. I then copied the size and location of the holes from the original tube in order to allow for proper water flow around the cylinders. The end towards the opening I just flared it enough to act as a stop to keep the tube from slipping all the way into the block. I didn't know if it would work (and still don't really)...but he the engine has yet to over heat while running for perhaps up to an hour and a half maybe more. thanks...
  13. Yep, rebuilt engine...machined crank, block, valve seats, head, and all new pistons, rings, bearings and seals. New valve and valve guides also. A professional did the machine work, while I (the hobbiest) did the assembly work. I also made a new water distribution tube to replace the old funky steel one. Tommorrow I will do a compression and vacuum test as suggested. That should yeild some insight. thanks for the input...
  14. I don't think the timing is a tooth off (hope not), but it runs and revs, albeit somewhat hesitantly. I have to slowly rev the engine or it will die. thanks, WB
  15. I'll check that out. I was wondering if the vacuum advance was leaky and effecting the carb and timing settings? One thing that I forgot to mention is that when I adjust the low speed idle jet it has little or no effect.
  16. I have a new rebuilt six cylinder engine in my 1938 Packard. I got it running, adjusted the valves (a couple of times), set the timing, etc... I've run the motor several times to bring it up to operating temperature in order to adjust the valves and torque the head properly. I finally decided to give a little test drive and it just has no power to move the car. At first I thought the clutch was slipping, but realized that releasing the clutch killed the engine...so the clutch is working just fine. The brakes are new as well, but not sticking. I figure it must be carburetor, but not sure. Any thoughts on trouble shooting this problem would be welcome. thanks, WB
  17. Thanks for the info Jon. Every little bit is helpful in narrowing down a solution. One other thing that is now coming to mind is that when I noticed the choke wire smoking, I rushed to turn off the engine and disconnect the battery...being not sure what all was happening under the dash. Now I'm recalling that the lighted knobs for the radio delete seemed a bit brighter that usual. I also happened to glance at the amp gauge before shutting it down and saw that it was charging about half way to the + side. Which was surprising, because I was not getting a charge before....I was saving the charging issues for last. I was running the idle at a medium rpm to warm everything up for another valve adjustment and head torque. First time at this idle so maybe the gauge wasn't reading at the lower speed...?? Hmmmm? Wondering if the regulator is not working. Would this only affect the battery, or would it affect everything electrical? Suppose I should make sure that it's indeed a 6V generator/regulator set up. I just cleaned up the parts and bolted them on after rebuilding the engine. I guess I should say that I bought this car with the engine and transmission completely disassembled, but all machined and ready to put back together. I have no personal history with the car other than the zillion hours of evenings spent nursing this girl back together. thanks again for the advice. -E
  18. Right now on Ebay someone is selling some Packard carbs. One of them is the same BXOV-26 stromberg that mine is...except it's using a heat riser tube off the manifold. If I were to buy this one, I'd have to make my own tube. It looks pretty straight forward(??). The fella is asking $340 starting bid (rebuilt). Kinda steep, but it's not like I can get one off the shelf at NAPA. Thoughts?
  19. Well, that makes sense...I was looking around in my Motor's as well as my 38-39 Packard service manual, and nothing was matching up. I would really rather have the original type carburetor, than to mess around trying to get this one to work properly. My car runs, but not as smooth as it should with a rebuilt motor. Any ideas where a fella could locate the proper carb? My manual says that early 38 (which I think mine is...the date code on the motor is actually 1937) uses a Chandler-Groves AOC-2. I would feel lucky to find either the early AOC-2 or the later AOC-25. thanks, Erik
  20. Howdy, I've yet to post on this particular forum, but have on others on this site (Lincoln, Hudson, Dodge). All along I've had this Packard 6 cylinder car that I tinker on here and there and have just about got it ready to test drive, when all of a sudden the electric choke wire started to heat up and melt all the way back to the ignition switch. Dang. Not sure why. I removed the coil and decided to test for resistance between the terminals, between the terminals and the housing, everywhere. At all points I got infinity...no resistance. Hmmm...? Any ideas? I looked the thing over and it physically looks fine. Your thoughts would be welcomed. thanks, Erik
  21. Hey thanks for the invite. Probably can't make it to this one. Wish I had the panel already and could make the trek. Sounds like a to opportunity to meet other wing nuts who love old Dodges....or maybe be the only wing nut at an old truck BBQ. -Wishbone
  22. I find adventure/nostalgia in driving these old beauties on the open road. I've made a few 1000-2000 mile trips in a classic. Although I have to admit negotiating cities is very taxing. My trips have usually been to fly from California to the midwest and attempt to drive home what usually boils down to a barn find that runs and stops. I try not to worry too much about speed...and I've found that the Interstate freeways are easier than the more picturesque blue highways. On the freeway, other folks can whip past you at their desired supersonic speeds. All the while honking and waving because, I assume, they are jealous. I should admit though, that I've retired from the risky barn find, and only drive what I've fixed up and know that I can reasonably depend on, ie: safe tires, good brakes, and working lights. It really is enough adventure in a good running classic. -Wishbone couple of pics of my latest run: 1935 Nash
  23. Howdy! I've lurked around on this site from time to time and even post a couple of times in the Lincoln Zephyr section...but those days are gone and now I'm starting up on my dad's 1936 Dodge Delivery. It's the humpback type (we have affectionately always called it the "Hunch Back") and it's in rough shape. He bought it when he was 15 yrs old and drove it until I was 15 or 16. I'm now 43 and would like to drag it out of the barn and make a go of it. I've been spending most of my tinkering time on Hudsons and one '38 Packard Six....which I still have and might sell in order to have some money to put into the Hunch Back. I'm a amateur but like to do things as right as I can afford. Which usually means beautifully perfect running engines and drive-train, but never a paint job or new interior have I seen. Oh well... Maybe this old Dodge will be a different story. I (and my brother and sister) have sort of held this old truck up on a pedestal ever since our father passed 16 years ago. After he died I carefully (or so I remember) rolled it into the barn and boarded up the walls and door. It has sat there ever since gathering dust and probably little furry inhabitants. I say probably because I now live in Northern California and the Hunch Back still resides in Montana out of my site and attention. My son and I have decided to take a trip up there to retrieve the old girl and while there say hi to grandma, aunts, uncles and cousins. He's now 16 and it's high time to have some father son adventure. Of course he is wishing that it was a '69 Firebird we were after, but hey...he got time to develop a sense of taste. About the Hunch Back: I have many memories of bouncing around in that thing. We often broke down, but it was usually something simple like wiring that just decided it had enough, or a too many times rebuilt carburetor full of cheap dirty gas, or...just plain out of gas! As far as I can remember, it never had a grill...other than the one my old man made out of expanded metal with white painted stripes. He painted the body a dark maroon and ran blackwall tires (or any tire that held air). I remember him riveting some sheet metal on one of the fenders. Probably to repair a stress crack. In fact, I think there are a couple of places like that. I don't remember any rust, just dents and cracks. Also the interior is less than spartan. Not the correct seat and some home spun vinyl door panels. Come to think of it, probably where I learned my interior decorating skills. The Hunch Back was parked when I was in high school because he found a '50 Studebaker pickup that was in a bit better shape and promised to be everything the panel wasn't Well two pickups actually...and he painted them both the same color in order to make it easier to switch the plates when one wasn't running. I know what you're thinking, "a typical back-woods lawless man"...probably the only guy to do such a thing... But hey, there were fish to catch and mom's VW couldn't carry the canoe and some winter firewood on the way home. Well, there you have it. I hope to post here as things go along. I'll definitely post some photos. I know how much we all love photos of sweet old rusty curves. I also plan to lean on some folks here on this site for some advice and possibly try to talk you out of a part or two... thanks for enduring the long post. Cheers, Wishbone
  24. Great tip on the Ronell Clock Company. They had exactly the right size. In fact, they have sizes from 2 inch to 12 inch in 1/8 increments. I ordered it and it came to something around $6.00 including shipping. Fantastic. It hasn't arrived yet, but when it does (and if it's a good fit) I'll post of photo of it. This is a great tip for antique car owners. Many thanks, Erik
  25. I did the valves. It was easier than the Packard Six I just did. I had to drive out the old guides in the Packard with a 4 lbs hammer...then drive and ream the new ones in. I was surprised by the amount of force used to do the job. Conversely the Lincoln was pretty straight forward and everything was smooth. The ignition is my sore spot (and weak spot). I'll keep pecking away. -E
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