wishbone

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About wishbone

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  • Birthday 06/08/1972

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  1. Got it running....and it runs very well and smooth. Slow to accelerate still. I have to "feather" it up gradually. But very smooth motor now. I then backed it out of the garage and drove around the driveway a bit....I just had too....it's been three years sitting on blocks! But not much power in forward gears. Hmmm? I jacked up the rear and the rear brakes are dragging a little. I can still turn them by hand, but I feel resistance and hear the shoes. I'm hoping that is the main issue. The front is the same. New shoes (cylinders, hoses, springs, etc) on all four corners. They could be just a little stiff. Tomorrow I'll back them off a bit to see if that helps. But a step in the right direction nonetheless. thanks for your comments, E
  2. Thanks for the thoughts guys. I'll try testing with another gauge first. It might take a while though, as the packard takes a smaller than standard size spark plug. I'll have to either fabricate an adapter, or locate one. I was reluctant to use two gaskets at first, but if in fact my compression is that high, then it might just be worth it for temporary until I get my new head machined (but not too much!). thanks again, E
  3. I've been working on my 1938 Packard Six and discovered that the head had been milled too much which caused a couple of exhaust valves to hit and bend. I followed some advice from this site and relieved the area in the head above the valves, put in new exhaust valves (lapped), and re-installed the head with a new head gasket. I got the engine running pretty quickly and let it come up to temp. Next morning I re-torqued the head as per usual. Then I decided to test the compression for kicks. I'm getting numbers like 140-145 lbs. Higher than I reported before. If I'm not mistaken this engine is suppose to be in the 87 lbs range. This just seems wildly high. I'm wondering if I actually need to relieve the block just to make it run easier. I have to admit...it seems a little restrained with the throttle response. Hmmm??? Anyone experience this before? thanks, E
  4. Update: Well, I've relieved the head above each exhaust valve by .010-.012. It's more than what I need by a margin...let's hope. One thing I started to wonder is: with the head milled so far down, did I lose too much flow? Would it be beneficial (or necessary) to relieve the block like the hot rodders do in order to regain some flow over to the cylinder? Now is the time to do it...although kinda hard and messy doing it in the car. The only reason I'm questioning it is because the compression on the other cylinders was so darn high (130-135 lbs). I think this engine is suppose to have roughly 87 lbs. compression. Obviously my gauge could be off by a margin, but 40 lbs more seems to be a clear indication that my compression has been significantly increased by the loss of transfer area in the head. Any thoughts? thanks,
  5. Don, I ended up JB welding mine back together. I think it will work in the short term. I have a bronze casting foundry and think that this is something that will be fun to make a pattern for and cast. Something a little different. I suppose I could use aluminum too....anyways, thanks for the offer. -Erik
  6. Don, Mine is cast...but I'm okay with a steel one as long as it fits. Are they the same size and shape? How much are you wanting for one? thanks a bunch for the response, E
  7. My water inlet/thermostat housing is cracked and leaking. I could try to repair it, but I'd rather just find another to replace it. If anyone has one or knows of someone who might, I'd appreciate the tip. thanks, E
  8. Alrighty then, no double head gasket it is. I am leaning towards relieving the head like some have said. My car is not a show car or very valuable money wise...so doing a little experimenting might be fun and okay. I think that I'll buy the head I saw on ebay anyways...just in case I screw something up. If I end up using the new head, I'll do the clay trick before having it machined so the machinist will have an idea of how much he can safely take off. thanks again, E
  9. Hey Packard people, My water inlet/thermostat housing is cracked and leaking....looking for a replacement. If you have one or know of someone who might, I'd appreciate the contact. Many thanks, E
  10. Hey all, thanks for the responses. I finally had some spare time to get back to the Packard and it's low or no compression problem. The leak down test pointed to the exhaust valve on cylinder number six as a possible problem so when I finally removed the head and look things over, I discovered that the valve was hitting the head (hammering it actually). When the shop machined the head I guess they either took too much off, or it had been machined before and this time around it was just a little too much. So it looks like I either have to track down another head (ebay...has a couple) or perhaps stack a couple of gaskets (??), or maybe relieve the area where the valves where hitting with a die grinder? Along with replacing the bent valves of course. Anyone ever relieve a head in this way? Looks to be enough material there. While doing this work, I also discovered the source of my coolant leak near the water inlet and it looks like I need a new water inlet housing. If anyone has one, I'm in the market. So mystery solved. I'm glad I posted here though, because now I have a whole arsenal of good information for the next time I have a similar problem. Thanks! -E
  11. Update: Like I posted earlier, after giving the engine a compression test (just the easiest first test for me to give), I discovered that it was extremely low on cylinder 6. I then researched how to do a leak down test in order to discover "why" it was low. I made up a tester and only applied 50 lbs. to each of the cylinders at TDC. No. 6, as suspected did not hold pressure...very little at least. I could hear air coming from the tail pipe and the adjacent spark plug hole. Exhaust valve and head gasket it would appear. I removed the head and everything looked just fine. Cylinder walls still show cross hatching, valve appear just fine, and the head gasket was perfect. My guess is that the head is not flat and therefore the gasket wasn't sealing (??). As well I suppose the valve and/or valve spring need replace. I don't have a valve spring tester, so I figure I'll just order new ones. Also, I'm wondering if the valve guides might be a little tight?? A couple of notes about the head gasket: I did not paint it with copper of aluminum paint prior to installation. Also I put in new head studs, but some of them went in deeper than others...so with the new chrome acorn nuts and thick chrome washers, I suspect that the nuts didn't have as many threads for purchase as others. I may for leave out the washer or use a thin grade 8 washer instead of the shiny thick chrome ones. Anything obvious jump out at anyone? Something else to check while I'm at it. thanks,
  12. Thanks for all the good input...especially about being systematic. I just now finally found a few minutes to tinker on it again and decided to give it a compression test for starters. According to my old rubber tipped compression tester I came up with some high numbers (130- 135 lbs.) on all but number six cylinder, which has maybe 10 lbs.... ugh. 130 seems a bit high, but I don't know what it should be. Nonethelss, it is accurate enough to show that number six is goofy. I removed the rear valve cover to make sure that the valves were moving...and they are, but I ran out of daylight and time to get the engine warm again to reset the valve clearances. I'm hoping that it's a result of not setting the clearances with the engine running. I did do it with the engine well warmed up, but by the time I got to number six maybe things cooled off enough to alter the accuracy. Seems a little weird, though, that only one cylinder is way low...? In answer to the question about the water distribution tube: I used thin stainless steel sheet metal and made it in two pieces with continous soldered seems the length of it and a soldered cap at the end. The seems where crimped as well. I used the highest heat solder available. I then copied the size and location of the holes from the original tube in order to allow for proper water flow around the cylinders. The end towards the opening I just flared it enough to act as a stop to keep the tube from slipping all the way into the block. I didn't know if it would work (and still don't really)...but he the engine has yet to over heat while running for perhaps up to an hour and a half maybe more. thanks...
  13. Yep, rebuilt engine...machined crank, block, valve seats, head, and all new pistons, rings, bearings and seals. New valve and valve guides also. A professional did the machine work, while I (the hobbiest) did the assembly work. I also made a new water distribution tube to replace the old funky steel one. Tommorrow I will do a compression and vacuum test as suggested. That should yeild some insight. thanks for the input...
  14. I don't think the timing is a tooth off (hope not), but it runs and revs, albeit somewhat hesitantly. I have to slowly rev the engine or it will die. thanks, WB
  15. I'll check that out. I was wondering if the vacuum advance was leaky and effecting the carb and timing settings? One thing that I forgot to mention is that when I adjust the low speed idle jet it has little or no effect.