Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About wishbone

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 06/08/1972

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Got it running....and it runs very well and smooth. Slow to accelerate still. I have to "feather" it up gradually. But very smooth motor now. I then backed it out of the garage and drove around the driveway a bit....I just had too....it's been three years sitting on blocks! But not much power in forward gears. Hmmm? I jacked up the rear and the rear brakes are dragging a little. I can still turn them by hand, but I feel resistance and hear the shoes. I'm hoping that is the main issue. The front is the same. New shoes (cylinders, hoses, springs, etc) on all four corners. They could b
  2. Thanks for the thoughts guys. I'll try testing with another gauge first. It might take a while though, as the packard takes a smaller than standard size spark plug. I'll have to either fabricate an adapter, or locate one. I was reluctant to use two gaskets at first, but if in fact my compression is that high, then it might just be worth it for temporary until I get my new head machined (but not too much!). thanks again, E
  3. I've been working on my 1938 Packard Six and discovered that the head had been milled too much which caused a couple of exhaust valves to hit and bend. I followed some advice from this site and relieved the area in the head above the valves, put in new exhaust valves (lapped), and re-installed the head with a new head gasket. I got the engine running pretty quickly and let it come up to temp. Next morning I re-torqued the head as per usual. Then I decided to test the compression for kicks. I'm getting numbers like 140-145 lbs. Higher than I reported before. If I'm not mistaken this engi
  4. Update: Well, I've relieved the head above each exhaust valve by .010-.012. It's more than what I need by a margin...let's hope. One thing I started to wonder is: with the head milled so far down, did I lose too much flow? Would it be beneficial (or necessary) to relieve the block like the hot rodders do in order to regain some flow over to the cylinder? Now is the time to do it...although kinda hard and messy doing it in the car. The only reason I'm questioning it is because the compression on the other cylinders was so darn high (130-135 lbs). I think this engine is suppose to have r
  5. Don, I ended up JB welding mine back together. I think it will work in the short term. I have a bronze casting foundry and think that this is something that will be fun to make a pattern for and cast. Something a little different. I suppose I could use aluminum too....anyways, thanks for the offer. -Erik
  6. Don, Mine is cast...but I'm okay with a steel one as long as it fits. Are they the same size and shape? How much are you wanting for one? thanks a bunch for the response, E
  7. My water inlet/thermostat housing is cracked and leaking. I could try to repair it, but I'd rather just find another to replace it. If anyone has one or knows of someone who might, I'd appreciate the tip. thanks, E
  8. Alrighty then, no double head gasket it is. I am leaning towards relieving the head like some have said. My car is not a show car or very valuable money wise...so doing a little experimenting might be fun and okay. I think that I'll buy the head I saw on ebay anyways...just in case I screw something up. If I end up using the new head, I'll do the clay trick before having it machined so the machinist will have an idea of how much he can safely take off. thanks again, E
  9. Hey Packard people, My water inlet/thermostat housing is cracked and leaking....looking for a replacement. If you have one or know of someone who might, I'd appreciate the contact. Many thanks, E
  10. Hey all, thanks for the responses. I finally had some spare time to get back to the Packard and it's low or no compression problem. The leak down test pointed to the exhaust valve on cylinder number six as a possible problem so when I finally removed the head and look things over, I discovered that the valve was hitting the head (hammering it actually). When the shop machined the head I guess they either took too much off, or it had been machined before and this time around it was just a little too much. So it looks like I either have to track down another head (ebay...has a couple) or per
  11. Update: Like I posted earlier, after giving the engine a compression test (just the easiest first test for me to give), I discovered that it was extremely low on cylinder 6. I then researched how to do a leak down test in order to discover "why" it was low. I made up a tester and only applied 50 lbs. to each of the cylinders at TDC. No. 6, as suspected did not hold pressure...very little at least. I could hear air coming from the tail pipe and the adjacent spark plug hole. Exhaust valve and head gasket it would appear. I removed the head and everything looked just fine. Cylinder walls
  12. Thanks for all the good input...especially about being systematic. I just now finally found a few minutes to tinker on it again and decided to give it a compression test for starters. According to my old rubber tipped compression tester I came up with some high numbers (130- 135 lbs.) on all but number six cylinder, which has maybe 10 lbs.... ugh. 130 seems a bit high, but I don't know what it should be. Nonethelss, it is accurate enough to show that number six is goofy. I removed the rear valve cover to make sure that the valves were moving...and they are, but I ran out of daylight a
  13. Yep, rebuilt engine...machined crank, block, valve seats, head, and all new pistons, rings, bearings and seals. New valve and valve guides also. A professional did the machine work, while I (the hobbiest) did the assembly work. I also made a new water distribution tube to replace the old funky steel one. Tommorrow I will do a compression and vacuum test as suggested. That should yeild some insight. thanks for the input...
  14. I don't think the timing is a tooth off (hope not), but it runs and revs, albeit somewhat hesitantly. I have to slowly rev the engine or it will die. thanks, WB
  15. I'll check that out. I was wondering if the vacuum advance was leaky and effecting the carb and timing settings? One thing that I forgot to mention is that when I adjust the low speed idle jet it has little or no effect.
  • Create New...