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About carve

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  • Birthday 05/18/1977
  1. My girlfriend inherited a great 1941 Hollywood from her grandpa. It apparently ran when parked three years ago. I changed the oil, fuel and coolant and gapped and cleaned the plugs. It idled for about 20 seconds and I've been unable to start it since I figured I'd replace the ignition parts. Even if they're fine, I'll need new ones sooner or later anyway. Where do I go about finding them? It probably doesn't matter, but the engine isn't original. It was last off the production line at Continental in the late 50's. We have the receipt somewhere. The only differences I'm a aware of are an iron head and that it's "high compression" (compared to the original engine I suppose)
  2. Dwight: Thanks. Her grandpa bought it in 1943. The screw on top of the sediment bowl just tightens the metal bar that holds the glass bowl in place. I am curious to see if there's another shutoff or safety valve somewhere in the system though. How can I tell? Maybe there's some kind of automatic one as a safety feature? Any other ideas? I can hear the electric pump, but it doesn't seem to do anything. There's 3 gallons of gas in the tank, which is 1/4 tank on the gauge. I know more would give it a little boost, but I don't want to fill the thing up until it runs. I didn't have starting fluid; that was actually carb cleaner. Would starting fluid work a lot better? So, I should disconnect the line leading to the mechanical pump and blow air all through the underfloor lines, through the electric pump, and back into the tank? I'll check to hear if I hear an air sucking sound before the electric pump. What do you guys think of filling the carb bowl with a mix of carb cleaner and gasoline? Did I even add gas to the right place? It should've idled a lot longer than that on a bowl full of gas, don't ya think? I couldn't get it to run like that 20 second run more than a few seconds. The needle valve not seating properly? On the bowl float? So, the bowl was over-filled or something? I was thinking of running 20% avgas not for the octane, but for the valvetrain lubrication, and because I hear it has a much longer shelf life. Higher Octane rating won't help anything, but it shouldn't hurt anything either. The only potential benefit is it'd help prevent detonation if there's a hot spot in there.
  3. Hi guys. We finally got the battery charged up, but we're still having problems. First, a video of the first start! We still can't get the electric fuel pump to move fuel, so we tried to fill up the carb bowl, and let the mechanical pump work as the engine ran. I didn't see a tube in the throat, but there was a big bolt on top of the bowl with a metal screen underneath (right under the yellow part of the can in the video). I filled it up (which also filled the glass filter), put maybe an eye droppers worth of gas straight down the throat, gave it a squirt of carb cleaner (just to burn- it's shiny clean inside the throat) and it fired right up! There doesn't appear to be a manual choke lever inside. I continued to give it a little squirt of cleaner when it sounded like it was going to die, and kept it going that way for about 20 seconds. Then it stopped. I tried to repeat the process, but couldn't get it to run for more than a few seconds. Fouled plugs? Defective carb? I also eventually noticed a little air at the top of the glass bowl, so fuel still wasn't being pumped There also appeared to be gas leaking out the seams of the carb. It's a really clean looking carb, so I figured it was recently rebuilt...but maybe not. Here are some pics. (I'm not sure why they're loading upside down. They're rightside up on my computer) GLong: where would the safety valve be in these pics? So, we seem to have two problems 1) Fuel still isn't pumping. The lines look fairly straight forward. I even pressurized the tank slightly by blowing into it with my mouth, but nothing happened. Might there be a clog? Do you think the electric pump has a little screen that's clogged or something? There doesn't appear to be an inline filter. Can I just squirt air down the fuel line to flush anything out, or might that cause problems with the fuel pumps and lines? 2) The carb doesn't seem to be working. I've never worked on carbs, so I'm open to ideas. Perhaps there's a safety valve and when I thought I was filling the bowl all the gas was really just going to the glass sediment filter. Also, where is the carb leaking from? There's gas on the intake manifold, and a tiny bit between the lower, black piece and upper metalic piece of the carb. I'm not sure why it would leak just having the bowl filled- it's only open on the top, right?
  4. Nickel: As I said, I not only drained the gas, but also gave the tank a rinse with a gallon of fresh. The inside of the tank does look a bit cruddy though. Well, since I KNOW it's getting zero fuel I think it makes more sense to worry about that first, give 'er a crank, and then worry about ignition if it doesn't start. All the connections look clean and it was allegedly running fine when it was parked, although a bit tough to start. That does raise a question though; what's the proper starting procedure, other than priming the fuel line with the electric pump? Would the timing on a car like this retard automatically while starting, or is there some manual way to do that? Is it always necessary to use the choke? Do I hold the gas pedal down or give it a few squirts before cranking? Hmmm...perhaps I should've tried the starter with the plugs out. Being an L-head though, much of the oil I put in went into the valves. It turned over smoothly by hand with the plugs out, so is it safe to assume everything is un-stuck? I have no experience with carbs. Can you point me to a resource on how to adjust it? It's a Carter WA-1. The car is in Albuquerque, NM- no humidity, but also about 5000' altitude so it might run a tad rich. That said, the car was bought here new, so I imagined it was adjusted to run here. The plugs weren't built up with thick residue- just black. Also, 5 of the plugs are these older looking two-electrode plugs with checkered flags on them, and one is a single electrode Autolite. Reportedly, the electric pump is just used to get things started and the mechanical is used for driving. All the connections that I looked at looked good, wrapped with teflon tape. I'm not exactly sure where the electric pump is near the tank- I'll take a closer look when I can. Are you suggesting shooting air from before the electric pump to the tank? Since I wrote the original post, I was thinking perhaps it is mounted a bit high. I don't imagine electric pumps are very good at drawing a vacuum of air, so maybe it needs to be primed. Pressurizing the tank just slightly might help the fuel up to the pump, as I probably would've noticed if it was as low as the bottom of the tank. I'm afraid of damaging the old tank though; it looks good as new outside but, as I said...a bit cruddy inside. Alternatively, maybe I can disconnect the fuel line before the mechanical pump and pull on it with a syringe pump. My girlfriend ordered a battery tender from Amazon today. I had to take the front seat out to reach the battery- quite a I'll connect leads to make it easy to charge with everything connected. That said, it definitely won't run if I can't get the fuel up to the little glass bowl.
  5. My girlfriend inherited a 1941 Graham Hollywood (non-supercharged) from her grandfather. It has the last engine to come off the assembly line at Continental- an iron-head "high compression" engine...not sure what the CR is, but it was 7.5:1 in the supercharged model. It last ran in June 2012, about 500 miles after a restoration, and was parked as is. I recommended it be driven every few months to keep everything running. I went to mechanical engineering school and am mechanically inclined, but have never worked on an antique...or anything carburated for that matter. So far we have... 1) Drained the fuel, added a gallon of fresh fuel to flush the tank, drained that, and added 3 gallons of Chevron 91 Octane 2) Drained radiator and added 60/40 antifreeze/distilled water. I opened the engine-block petcock too, but nothing came out. 3) Drained (very black) oil, which may've been straight 30 weight, and replaced with 15W-40 Cl-4 rated diesel-engine oil. I picked it because the oil has high zinc content, meant for non-catalyst vehicles. 4) Added some marvel mystery oil and Maxima multi-purpose penetrating oil spray to each cylinder, blasted it with a spray of air, let it sit for a few hours, and turned engine maybe 10 times by hand. It wasn't exactly easy to turn with a screwdriver, 1/4 turn at a time, at an odd angle, but it felt smooth enough 5) Pulled glass fuel filter bowl (ceramic element) and cleaned with gas and carb cleaner. 6) Pumped the bias ply tires up to 30 psi and moved them off their flat-spot. The car is 100% unmodified except for an optima battery and electric fuel pump. The battery is pretty low charge after sitting that long, but enough to run the lights and pump, which we could hear running. No fuel would reach the lines to the carb, even with the glass filter-bowl removed. We hooked the battery to a cheap 12V/6V Harbor Freight charger/starter for a couple hours until charge was up to about 50%, put it in start mode, and ran the fuel pump some more. I thought the mechanical pump might help so we tried to turn it over with the starter. The engine turned slowly, but then our harbor freight piece of junk began to smoke so we tossed it. We're getting a battery tender to charge the battery properly, but I'm wondering why we didn't get any fuel to pump. Perhaps since the car was completely out of gas, maybe the fuel pump can't apply much suction to air in the line and has to be primed with a vacuum pump. Any ideas how to do this? Or, could the fuel line somehow have become clogged while the car sat unused? One more thing: below the ceramic filter element there's a spring in a rubber boot that holds the element tight against the top. The rubber boot is torn. Is that a problem? It was difficult to get the bowl on straight, too. I'm hoping running it with the electric pump will reveal any leaks before we try to start it. They sure do put it in an awfully unsafe place, right above the exhaust! Also, the spark plugs looked a little sooty, but not awful. Maybe it's running rich. Once it's running and I burn the gas out of the tank I plan to fuel it on a mixture of one or two gallons of 100LL Av Gas to 3 or 4 gallons of ethanol free unleaded and fuel stabilizer.