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intlhud

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About intlhud

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  • Birthday 11/28/1946
  1. Thanks, Charles. I ordered a reprint version of the 49-54 shop manual last week. Should be here any day. Found one for only $22, which was a lot better than the previous $70 manual I found on eBay. Of course the $70 one was an original manual. I don't need an original, especially. Reprints can get dirty and take some abuse without worrying about them. It appears that I've solved most if not all my ignition problems, and is engine running smoothly. I'm happy to report that, because it's been a long, deductive process getting to where I am now. Had more than one problem, which made it difficult
  2. Charles, After spending a considerable amount of time on this problem for the past month, I finally discovered the answer. By the way, thanks for explaining the timing marks to me. I will make a note of that in my paperwork. I am on the lookout for a manual on the car, one that won't cost a fortune. I'm sure that info is in a manual. The problem was this: Someone must have left the hood open during rainy weather in the not-too-distant past. Rainwater puddled in the cups at each spark plug, and apparently must have stayed there until it dried. That created a fair amount of flaky rust in the cas
  3. I forgot to add that I also bypassed the wiring to the ignition switch, by connecting the positive side of the battery to the + side of the coil. That ruled out a bad connection at the switch. I get an occasional "bump" when a cylinder fires and tries to start, but that has become a rare event. The only major discrepancy so far is the difference in the unbalanced compression. Cyl. 7&8 are the ones with wet plugs, and also the ones with the lowest compression. Could I get compression if the intake valve isn't fully closed? And, wouldn't the car try to start anyway, even with only six of th
  4. I am reaching the point of being completely stumped over this one. My 51 Pontiac (straight 8) fails to crank. I've only owned the car for a little over a month, and thus far have been able to keep it running only two times (about 15 min each time). Other times I get a brief firing for a few revs and then it fails to catch and run. I replaced points, condenser, and have gone back to verify that the points are opening and closing properly. Checked wiring inside the distributor, replacing one frayed wire which was needed. Continuity in and around distributor is good, with no shorts to ground. I'v
  5. That's what I'm thinking, too. I found a picture of an exploded view (without dimensions) of a '50 and it appears to be the wrong one that I have on the right side. The wrong bezel has a small "bucket" while the correct one (my left side) has a triangular shaped holder with springs. ANYONE OUT THERE NEED A '49-'50 they'd like to trade?
  6. Thanks, Charles, for the info. While the p/n is different for the left and right sides, shouldn't they be the same physical size? On my car, the right side (one in question) is about an inch smaller in diameter. Also, the hardware behind each unit was very different from each other. I recently bought two NOS replacement lenses, and one won't fit the right bezel. I didn't even realize the discrepancy until I removed the bezels. It appears there was some minor fender-bender damage to that corner of the rear quarter panel at one time, which probably destroyed the original bezel. I will check out
  7. It's only one bezel that I need. I have one of each, one of which comes from a different year, or other model car. Thanks.
  8. Does anyone out there have a spare tail light bezel for a '51 Chieftain? Or, perhaps a source where I can find that part. Someone installed the wrong part on mine, possibly from a Chevy donor car or something. I will be glad to part with that one, once I find the correct one to replace it. Already have NOS lenses. All I need is the bezel and associated hardware. Thanks.
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