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About NCMark

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 03/24/1953
  1. I too am looking for a solution for my'37, I was almost rear ended a couple of weeks back. I bought LED bulbs not a great improvement
  2. I hope someone can answer this for me. all that is left of my heat riser is the flapper valve and the spring on the front side. I want assure it is fully open, so I can permanently fix it that way. looking from the front which way is fully open CW or CCW mark
  3. here's an update!!! NEWS FLASH, run 20 degrees cooler with non-ethanol gas, (it was news to me at least) I made a 60mile trip to a show this last weekend, my fuel tank had 87 octane 10% ethanol the car ran 180 to 200 degrees. On my return trip I topped off with 11gallons of 93 octane non ethanol she ran 170 to 180 degrees. a little google search and sure enough 10% ethanol fuel burns a lot hooter!! As alcohol burns it produces water vapor resulting in a lean burn. The fuel does burn cooler and produces less btu
  4. Witchita Falls, I was there once on a service call never did find the falls:rolleyes:
  5. What year did Buick start using rod & main bearing inserts. I would like to find a car that I can run safely for hours without fear of rod failure at 70-75mph
  6. Running hot update, this was the fix!!!
  7. I sent you a PM with my email address thanks in advance
  8. I don't believe the car sat and certainly not with antifreeze it spent it's entire life in Wisconsin prior to me buying it. I'm the 3rd owner thee previous owner had it for 30 yrs. the first owner had it painted and bumpers chromed. so it seems to have been actively cared for but not5 drove much I just checked the themostat I pulled out it opened at 170 full open at 180 back closed 170 I'll get a 160 degree in the AM tomorrow and try that
  9. here is a update and a bit of history, prior to the O/H problem I thought I had a radiator leak at the lower elbow, romoved the rad. had it boiled no leaks bad lower hose. At that time i put new hoses on it. Today I found in the box of parts that came with the car an original style (long bellows) themostat, I installed it and took her for a drive, under 55 does not go above 180 55 to 60 it keeps on rising, back to 45-50 temp goes back down to 180. the car has 29000 original miles on it. So in my opinion that leaves two things, impeller on water pump or build up in the block. When I had the w
  10. Well I made my first road trip and she overheated, so I'm trying a new thermostat first. I was running 50- 60 mph the temp would be fine but a little hot 185-195 according to the gauge for 30 minutes or so then start to rise. even during short runs less than 10 mi. when i turned the engine off I will have a good amount of coolant come out the over flow tube. second question what is the purpose of the bypass valve mark
  11. Is there a was to tell if a car was painted with lacquer or enamel ? my car was repainted some time in the late 70s' I would like to do a little nick an scratch touch up. does it even matter for a air brush touch up. I know I missed the c in lacquer in the title
  12. Found them both, thank you. No. Carolina requires any vehicle coming from out of state to be inspected by the Theft Bureau. If they don't like the ID number they issue thier own, My title on this car from Wis. uses the engine number as the Vin. I think the Chassis would have a better choice. I've had hassles with them previous, like six months to get a title. Once again thanks for the help.
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