Johnny Buick

Hello Everyone Correct me if I am wronghere, before you had work done on your drive shaft there was no viabration? If so it must be in the drive shaft/drive line. I would suggest that you have a look at how each universal joint was fitted and secured into the yokes. In the "old days" we used external circlips to locate and secure the universal joint caps into the yokes and they worked well. Then came along modern technology where they would inject a silicone bead into a small hole in the yoke and this would lock the caps in place and centralise them. The mistake that people make here is that they try and drill out the silicone bead and it creates all sorts of problems. When you fit new universal joints you need to buy them with inside circlips as there is no grooves for the older types. It is only this way that you can properly locate and centralise the universal joint and this will go along way to avoiding any viabrations. I would suggest that you may have one joint which is misaligned and the shop has tried to balance the shaft to over come it and have not been successful. I am originally from New Zealand and spent many years battling universal joints with a bench vice, hammer and sockets for sleeves. We used to balance the shaft with Jubilee hose clips and these worked. I still show my students how to do this, however nowdays, most cities have a "driveline shop" or a truck repair shop who have the tools and equipment which can do this work in a fraction of the time it used to take and can sell you a universal joint for half the price that they cost at a parts shop. Thanks and good luck with the repair. John

Hello Everyone I was recommended to a small radiator repair shop called Ives Radiators in Leota Minnesota and they specialise in restoring classic tractor radiators, to date I have taken two Buick radiators to them. The first was from my 1963 Le Sabre 401 cubic inch engine and they pressure tested it and flushed it out and said that it was in good condition. This cost me $25. The second one was the radiator out of my 1968 Wildcat and this needed a new core. The cost for this was $285 including tax. I could have brought a new "modern" radiator for the Wildcat for a similar price, however I wanted to keep original as I can and chose the recore option. I will be visiting Ives in the next few weeks with the radiator from my 1983 Riviera, as that has a leak and I will have it cleaned out and repaired etc etc. Thank you John

Hello Dave Thank you for your message and it appears that the design of the hubcaps changed for the 1984 model. From what I can work out the 1982 and 1983 Rivieras are the same and 1984 and 1985 are the same. They all have the same locking method, which you describe. I am disappointed that I cannot find and buy a set from anyone on this forum, as it would have solved a "headache". Thank you once again for taking the time to email me and look for the parts which I asked for. Regards John

Hello Ray Thank you for your message and for taking the time to look through your hubcaps. I would love to buy a set of them, if they were correct for my 1983 Buick Riviera. While I have the correct 15 inch wheels on my car, the hubcap diameter is 16 and 3/8inches in diameter. If you have a set please get back to me. I will try and upload some pictures of the hubcap which I have on my 1983 Riviera. Thank you once again. Regards John

Hello Ray I am very interested and will either try and source a photograph off the internet or photograph the one which I have and I will then PM you with the detail. Thank you for getting back to me. Have a great day. Regards John

Hello Everyone Its a bit like looking for a needle in a haystack, or perhaps a barn. However God loves a trier. I am in the process of sorting out a 1983 Buick Riviera Convertible, (Firemist red) and would like to find a NOS or a near show quality set of wire spoke hubcaps, (15 inch) and the L and R taillights. My lenses have lost the chrome detail. I live in Sioux Falls South Dakota 57107. The car has a 307 cubic inch engine and I would like to hear from anyone who has parts for this car or knows where I might have these reconditioned? Thanks John ROA#14353 BCA#46404

Hello Thats why I use Daytona Parts. They will will give you back a carburettor which is show quality. Thanks John

Hello Buddy I brought cork gaskets from TA Performance in Arizona, they are very good quality. They are listed on the V8 Buick.com website. For carburettor gaskets try Daytona Parts in Florida, They advertise in the Buick Bugle. They sell ethanol resistant gasket kits and I run my Wildcat on regular 10% Ethanol gasoline with a lead substitute added on fill up. The engine seem quite OK with that. Thanks its a great day here in Sioux Falls and it already feels like summer with a temperature of +20 degrees. John

Hello Rusty I am not quite sure as to your last comment about rebuilding the motor at 100k? In my opinion the engines of the 40s/50s and 60s were only good for 100k and then required reconditioning. Coming from New Zealand, I grew up with a mixture of all sorts of cars from all over the world and and it wasn't uncommon to do a valve grind at 50,000 miles and a recondition at 100,000 miles. With some of the British made cars, the engineering and quality of materials were not so good and more work was required to keep them on the road. With modern technology, lubricants and materials, we are now seeing engines going to 250,000 miles before they are worn out . This has killed off the auto engine reconditioning industry and with a replacement engine readily available from a salvage yard, it is cheaper to replace than recondition or even rebuild. In your case you must draw the line between rebuilding your current engine, which is new crankshaft rod bearings, piston rings and a cylinder hone and reconditioning the heads, which used to be a valve grind. Here you are hoping that the old engine is not too badly worn and can be re-ringed, the crankshaft is not scored or worn and will take a new set of bearing shells and the valves and valve seats are good enough to be re faced and seats cut so that they can be sealed up again. It may be a big ask for an engine which is over 50 years old? However worth considering? The 401 nailhead which I recently reconditioned had only done 59,000 miles and initially I thought that I would be able to get away with "refreshing" it up and changing all the seals and gaskets. How wrong was I and when I started to get into the engine, I found all sorts of issues, including two bent valves, rear main seal leaking, noisy lifters and a a worn cam shaft, noisy timing gears and so on and on. The bores had on average 006" wear and I was concerned that it would be marginal when it came to fitting a new set of rings. I wanted to do a full frame off restoration and I soon learned that also included reconditioning the engine and not rebuilding it. If you are going to keep the car for years to come, I would suggest that spending $2000 to $3000 on reconditioning your engine is a good investment. Take care Regards John

Rusty I also agree with what Arnulfo has written, Russell Martin is a very well respected "nailhead" expert and well worth a phone call, if you are going to recondition the engine. John

Hello Rusty I would start by giving Jerry Ross a call. I don't know if anyone will be there until the 6th January. The turn around time on my 401 nailhead was about about a month and during that time they rebored the engine, it was original and had never been touched and they took it out to 030". Crankshaft main bearings were reground, crankshaft rod journals were not reground, as it was in perfect condition. New camshaft and lifters provided, new oil pump, cylinder heads resurfaced, valves and seats recut and two valves replaced, block was resurfaced and line bored. The engine was balanced. The engine had been crack tested before the reconditioning had started. New modified timing gears and chain were provided along with a complete engine overhaul gasket set. The rocker assemblies were overhauled and the pawls resurfaced. The list of work went on and on. I got the engine back as an assembled short block and will fit and heads and the rest of the running gear in the coming weeks and as part of my lessons with my students where I teach, (they all love working on big block V8s). If I was you, I would take a day off work either side of the weekend and put the engine on the back of your truck or trailer and deliver it to J and L Automotive. I am sure that it wouldn't cost you more than the $800 which you estimated for delivery/shipping costs. Take care and please let me know how you get on. Regards John

Hello Rusty I don't know of any engine reconditioners in the south of the mid west. However I live in Sioux Falls and there is an excellent company called J and L Premier Automotive in Tea South Dakota and Tea is 5 miles south of Sioux Falls and off the I 29. The manager there is guy named Jerry Ross and he is a legend around here on the dirt track and he raced Buick Nail Heads for many years. There isn't much that he doesn't know about this engine and he has done work for me. Recently he did a 401 nail head which came from my 1963 Le Sabre. They are reasonable and he does work for people from all over the USA. Their phone number is 605-368-2222. Thank you and Happy New Year. John

Hello Rob Thank you for getting back to me it is appreciated. Can you please direct me to the company whom you know and use for replating plastic automotive parts? I will get in touch with them and see what they can do. I will also have a go at cleaning them with Meguiar's plastic cleaner as suggested to me by Darrell on this site. Thank you once again. Regards John BCA #46404 ROA #14353

Hello Darrell Thank you for your message and comments they are appreciated. I will have ago with the Meguiar's plastic cleaner and see what happens. I will also have a look at getting them replated. I like your fleet of cars and have been pondering over what I should do with a 1965 Oldsmobile Cutlass F85 Convertible, which I have. It is in need of a total frame off restoration. However it is mostly all there. Where are you at with your 1971 Cutlass Supreme? Thank you once again. Regards John BCA #46404 ROA #14353

Hello Everyone Greetings from Sioux Falls South Dakota. Its very cold here and we have had lots of snow in recent weeks. If any of you southern guys or gals would like to come and take some of it away, you are more than welcome. I have recently purchased a 1983 Riviera Convertible which has the 307 engine in it. While the tail lights are complete the chrome edging and centre detail surrounding the "R" is faded away. Therefore can anyone give me some advice as to where I could perhaps buy NOS or repro set or as to how these can be restored to their former glory? Is there anyone offering a tailight lense restoration service? Thank you for your time and attention. Regards John ROA #14353 BCA #46404

Hello Everyone I have used Daytona Parts from Florida and they are excellent! They also advertise in the Bugle. Thanks John

Hello Everyone I am 62 and have; 1969 Riviera GS 1983 Riviera Convertible 1968 Wildcat 1963 Le Sabre 4 door Hardtop 1965 Oldsmobile Cutlass F85 Convertible, which I would like to find a new home for? Interesting answers to the question. I teach Automotive Technology here in Sioux Falls and what I am finding is that most of the students who come to my classes and have prior automotive knowledge and experience, have learnt their skills and knowledge from working with their grandads and not their fathers. Does this research support that and if so what comes after grandad? Have a great day. The temperature here has warmed up to 8 degrees and it has stopped snowing! Perhaps spring will come early. Thanks John

Hello Everyone I have recently purchased a 1969 Riviera GS and a 1983 Riviera Convertible and would like to buy the shop manuals for each vehicle, (chassis and fisher body). I believe that there is available a convertible supplement/book also for the 1983 model? I hope that someone can help me here or direct me as to where I can find them? Thank you John

Hello Everyone I would like to know if it is possible to rent an enclosed in the mid west. I live in Sioux Falls and would like to take a car to the national BCA meeting next July, (2014). Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have a GMC Sierra 2500 and it will tow it OK. Thanks John

Hello Everyone My name is John and I am new to this site. I am a member of the BCA and have owned a few Buicks in recent years. Recently I purchased two Rivieras, (1969 GS and a 1983 307cubic inch Convertible), both are in need of work and I would like to ask if anyone has for sale the chassis and body books for both models? I will also have to deal with a rust issue on the 1969 GS around the rear fender wheel arches and ask for your advice as to what would be the best course of action here? Can you buy after market or NOS rear fender wheel arches or good second hand parts or is it a repair and patch job? Where do you look for vinyl tops these days? Thank you Regards John Sioux Falls SD

Hello Everyone I have just purchased two Rivieras, (1969 GS and a 1983 307cubic inch Convertible), both are in need of work and I would like to ask if anyone has for sale the chassis and body books for both models? I will also have to deal with a rust issue on the 1969 GS around the rear fender wheel arches and ask for your advice as to what would be the best course of action here? Can you buy after market or NOS rear fender wheel arches or good second hand parts or is it a repair and patch job? Where do you look for vinyl tops these days? Thank you Regards John Sioux Falls SD

Hello Everyone re: 1963 Buick Le Sabre 4 Door Hardtop Greetings from a very cold Sioux Falls South Dakota. I am in the process or restoring a 1963 Le Sabre 4 door hardtop and would like to try and locate a few parts which are better than the original parts I have. I am looking to buy; 1. A battery tray and as much of the inner fender which is necessary. Mine is rusty and trays for 1963 and 1964 are similar, (not identical, however can be fitted). 2. A show quality, new or NOS front and rear windshields, (both are ezy tint, which is blue in colour). Please get back to me if you have anything or leads where these parts may be found. Thanks John

I have a 1965 Oldsmobile F85 Cutlass Convertible car for sale. It is very much a "project car" and is in need of restoration. The car has the original 330 cubic inch engine, jetaway transmission, clean South Dakota title. All the parts are there, except for one front fender and I have located one for it. I live in Sioux Falls and the car is able to roll on four wheels. I would like to get $2500 obo. Please get back to me if you want to see any photographs of it. Happy Thanksgiving! John