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Dalesman

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Posts posted by Dalesman

  1. Carb float material
    I have a 1924 Buick 24/34 which uses a Marvel carb with cork float which over time had become saturated with fuel. I tried making a new float from cork and treating it with clear fuel proof model varnish to no avail.
    The solution was a float made from ethernol proof material obtained from the following company in the USA. Restorationstuff.com.
    They stock not only floats for some vintage vehicles, but also blocks of float material that can be cut/machined to shape.
    The replacement float was 30$ + postage and has been on my car for over 6 months and is functioning OK and does not appear to be affected by unleaded fuel.

  2. I have checked and the existing 4 cylinder contacts are as photo1. Photo 2 shows the 6 cylinder contacts laid on top and their longer length. Photo 3 shows the NOS 6 cylinder contact arms I have .

    Hubert can you please confirm an e-mail address for Tom Van Meeteren so i can contact him and hopefully purchase a 4 cylinder contact set.

    Thanks you all for your help.

    photo3.jpg

    photo2.jpg

    photo1.jpg

  3. Thank you all for your responses. I will check the breaker plate but I am sure the steel section which carries the fibre heel and tungsten contact is physically longer on the six cylinder than the four cylinder distributor. I will post a photo to show this. Thanks Hubert_25-25 for the Delco part number it confirms I have purchased moving contacts for a 6 cylinder. If anyone could supply me with the correct 4 cylinder contact set in exchange for the 2 moving contacts I have that would be great and I would of course cover any postage costs etc. Obtaining any American parts in the UK  for vintage vehicle is very difficult and custom charges of anything from America more than doubles the costs.

  4. Can anyone help with a supplier for NOS ignition points for my 24/34 roadster?  I have purchased 2 NOS moving contact arms (Delco13341 ) from Mikes Obsolete Auto Parts  but unfortunately they are obviously for a 6 cylinder motor as they are about 1/4 " too long.  If anyone could confirm the correct Delco part number and a supplier that would be a great help. As you are all aware ignition parts for the the 4 cylinder cars are difficult to find and I have already adapted a later modern ignition cap and rotor arm to resolve ignition problems and  I could do the same with the contact points but would prefer to use standard parts if possible. Any help would be appreciated.

  5. Here is a better photo of the rear light . It has a red glass lens and cut outs top and bottom with clear plastic in to illuminate the number plate and Buick badge. Whilst on the subject of rear lights etc. can anyone tell me what the holes in the side of the spare wheel brackets are for . Is it for a twin spare mount ??

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    • Like 1
  6. Yup, I know these are a lost cause. However, I bought one in Hershey that seems to show a little hope. I figured the fact that the trip odometer works is a good sign. Taking it apart, I find that everything is in great shape, except for the pot metal casting that supports the speed indicator drum. All the other pot metal is excellent. Is it possible that anyone has a speedo with a good drum support casting?

    I have had a similar problem on the speedometer on my 24/34 roadster and managed to save the fragile pot metal casting by coating it with epoxy resin using a small brush. If you try to dis-assemble the mechanism without doing this it will all just crumble to dust.

  7. If you have a look at http://trove.nla.gov.au/ you might be able to find the original advert - is it a fisher or holden body car? the non holden body cars attracted a 75 pound premium (tax rather than features, they actually had a simpler interior as far as I have found out)

    Have had a quick look on the site and a car similar to mine is described in an article dated 20 May 1924 and describes the car perfectly- "Cobalt Blue with blue leather interior". From the info and photos received with the car from the previous owner, it is one of only 113 RH drive 24/34 roadsters exported from the USA. It has a Holden body and was found by a Geoff Johnson, a veteran and vintage car trader, in the Barossa Valley who bought it from a vine yard owner. Unfortunately Geoff has passed away so no more info is available.

    Can you confirm if the car would have been supplied with a body colour painted radiator surround or left nickle plated?

    Thanks for the info.

  8. This is the same dealer that supplied my 24/34 roadster and I have the same plate on the dash. My car may have been am early import as the frame number is 1080001. From what I have discovered on the net, Eyes & Crowle were also dealers for other makes and obviously had a good business in the 20's.

  9. I have had problems with the cast parts in the speedometer on my 24/34 roadster but have managed to salvage them by coating them with a thin layer of 2 pack epoxy resin. If you are careful this holds the parts together so they can be adjusted/removed. What I do require is details of the drive ends of the speedometer cable as I have the outer cover put no inner drive chain or terminations. I was told that this type of drive was used by other car manufacturers. Can anyone post some photos to help ?

  10. Thanks Mark, The nameplate details the Australian importer but does not cover any holes in the dash board, so the dashes were probably unique to either LH or RH drive cars The plate has the following details :- Eyes & Crowle sole agents 75-9 Pirie St Adelaide and from some of my research they also imported other makes.

    With regard to the axle lube , I am using Penrite 250 (SAE 250) and the level is approx 1/2" below the level plug. My concern is that the seals are doing such a good job that any excess oil cannot now pass into the thrower and out the drain tubes. I understand that the orginal purpose of the drain tubes was to discharge any oil which found its way into the bearing if the car was parked on a slope, so curing one problem may have created another. Any thoughts ??

  11. Hi, This is my first post on the forum and I own a 1924 24/34 Roadster that was imported to Australia in 1924 as a rolling chassis which then received coachwork by Holden.

    The chassis number 1080001 and engine number 1094635 would seem to indicate that this may have been an early import. I purchased the vehicle in January 2011 from a dealer in the UK and it is in very original condition having spent most of its life in the Barossa Valley in South Australia. The car received a repaint in original colour and re-trim about 25 years ago and the last owner had the car for around 15 years before it was sold and imported to the UK.

    To date, besides new tyres and tubes, and a brake re-line the car has performed excellently but I am having problems with oil contamination on the rear nearside (LH) brake linings from the rear axle. When I relined the brakes there was a small amount of oil contamination on the hand brake linings so I replaced the felts with oil seals in the oil throwers . I thought at first that the axle may now be pressurizing as the n/s hub cap was filling with oil and the drain tubes to the back plates were dry. I have provided a small vent to the axle by means of labyrinth drilling the oil level plug, but I think there is still a problem. Has anyone had the same experience or can suggest a fix.

    I hope you like the photos.

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