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mhuppertz

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Everything posted by mhuppertz

  1. Not the accumulator. This is electrical, like the pump itself it intermittent. I used to be able to find them at the U Pull and Pay yard all day long but not anymore.
  2. Hello. 1989 Reatta, power brakes usually work for a while into a drive, then sooner or later I get the low brake pressure alarm and two footed, white knuckled breaking. I can't find the problem. Any guesses? If there is a way to find it through the CRT I haven't been able to figure out where to find that data. TIA
  3. Appreciate the link to the ABS code reading procedure!
  4. E041 E022 B122 B123 B446 B448 B482 Guess I have my work cut out for me... any way to pull a code for the brakes? 1989 Reatta
  5. Thanks for the replies. I did replace the sensor, maybe it is the wiring. I check the oil frequently. I replaced the accumulator with a boneyard one last year, and it is still working, I know what that feels like when it goes for sure. There were a bunch of cars in the local boneyard that have the Teves system, I will go grab a few more setups. Considering using one on my 1969 Dart GT 440 build because there is no room for a vacuum cannister. What OHM value should I look for on the ABS wheel sensors?
  6. Mine has apparently quit working. Anyone have a good one they could part with? Still chasing gremlins, low oil warning when the engine is first started, occasional electric system failure notices, now occasional low brake pressure warnings, and the ever present ABS warning light... Is a FSM available for the 1989? Thanks! Mark
  7. My Reatta had to sit for a while and now the CRT isn't lighting, but it is still responsive to touch. Is there a fuse somewhere just for the screen or am I hosed? Additional info: Everything else works as normal, dash and speedo, etc. In the past it would come back after driving it a while, one time I had to disconnect the battery and reconnect to get it back. Those haven't worked and I am getting worried. Thanks!
  8. Good to have spares, especially when the failure rate of the replacements seems to be high.
  9. I haven't smelled any freon in the cabin, so I'm hoping I get a pass on that. Every plastic part seems to disintegrate when I touch it as it is!
  10. Looks like I have to pull the radiator to get to the compressor? Put leak detector in but to sign of a leak at the front of the compressor, but I can't see the read of the compressor. It has been converted to R134a. Anyone had experience tracking freon leak issues?
  11. It was the ignition module. Changed to a later style Delco ignition controller and coils, problem gone. If there is no feedback from the transmission this shouldn't have fixed it. Very irritating not to know why, but glad it is resolved.
  12. For those who missed my earlier posts, my '89 would cut out when it was time to upshift specifically when I was leaning on it, would either have to let out for shift then it was fine. or floor it, would then run clean to redline. Today I installed the Delco coils and ignition module from a later model Buick 3.8l (Bonnie), problem solved. I made an adapter bracket out of some scrap aluminum I had. Irritating because I had replaced the factory Magnavox coil pack and ignition module not long ago. Also irritating because I will never know exactly why it was failing only when it was time to upshift. There has to be some feedback from the transmission but I can find no evidence of such. Now I just need to put a transmission shift repair kit in to fix the over run clutch issue apparently common enough on these transaxles to warrant a repair kit! Oh, and I have to find the freon leak!
  13. It happens on any upshift. If I lean on it more than, say half load or more it will do it. If I stay in it when it stumbles it keeps stumbling and decelerates, until I let out of it more, then it upshifts and everything is fine. Like I said if I stay hard in it it will pull hard all the way to upshift. Weird. I have a new knock sensor and O2 sensor that I am going to throw in it while I am under the car looking for A/C freon leaks. I need to be driving this car, but it is getting pretty warm without A/C. Just got my collection of o rings and seals to try to seal it up, but that is a subject for another thread. Funny thing is, I can hop in it and drive 200 miles north at 85 or 90 no problem and get 24 mpg doing it. Just can't accelerate too hard without blipping the gas to let it upshift.
  14. No errors from the MAF, and it isn't acting like what I would expect a bad MAF to. On the fuel cutoff at 6k, it happens at various RPM, usually anything above say half throttle. Like I said, if I stay in it it runs flawlessly, but if I let out to upshift, falls flat (like fuel or electrical cutout). Imagine a newer car that has torque management, and there is something wrong with the ECU so that when an upshift is triggered the computer pulls nearly all the fuel out, that's what it feels like.
  15. The engine runs perfectly, even under hard acceleration, until the car is about to upshift, then it falls flat until I let off the pedal. I can floor it again and it is fine, so it isn't a fuel pressure issue. I could swear that there is some sort of torque management that is failing. This issue is driving me crazy. I replaced the TPS and dialed it in to the right idle voltage. Replaced the coil pack when they failed, and the electronic controller under the coils previously, not 100% sure the issue was present before that. The car will run 90 all day long, just stumbles on upshift. Makes no sense. Ideas?
  16. Found the issue. The rubber bushing was missing from the firewall mount, so the metal cup was contacting the pin and transmitting the motor vibration into the cabin. I put a spare bushing in and it is super quiet now.
  17. Rockauto lists a type HR6 and H6 style compressor. Anyone know the difference?
  18. Brake pump was groaning when running. Pulled the pump assembly and realized that the rubber bushing that fits in the rear of the pump was missing, so the vibration was being transmitted to the cabin. Now it is quiet again.
  19. It didn't groan with the original unit, but I changed it to try to get a better accumulator and pressure switch. Guess I got a worse one than I had!
  20. I pulled a Teves brake setup out of the boneyard and replaced the part that had the ball and electronics. Now when I tap the brakes the motor groans. I din't bleed the brakes after, could this just be air in the lines? Sounds a little like when a power steering pump is low on fluid. Thanks, Mark
  21. I replaced the Brake Pressure Relay to try to get rid of the dreaded "low brake pressure" error and subsequent loss of power braking, really fun on my daily driver... The problem went away for two and a half days, and it was glorious. Then the issue came back. After a week the intermittent "Electrical Problem Detected" error came back also. I can't figure out what would cause it to work normally sometimes, then randomly stop working. Any ideas? The relay I used is GM 19106975, ACDelco
  22. Not sure if I posted this issue previously. Search is coming up with nothing.
  23. I replaced my brake pressure relay and drove the car all day without issue, other than the accumulator being flat. Also my "electrical issue detected" error has gone away. Maybe they were related somehow.
  24. Changed my water temp sensor and when I drive around town in the high 90's is registers "HOT" and shuts off the A/C if I sit waiting to get fuel or something. The fans are spinning but not like I think they should be in a hot engine situation. Could it be a fan controller? I can't seem to find reference to a controller or a replacement part number.
  25. It worked perfectly for one day. so I think I had the right part. Bought the next one from Napa, so we will see, replacing it hopefully today.
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