TNtc

Im with TwinCam. If you sand the leather you will be opening Pandoras box. Not only will you be putting stress on the leather but you will be applying extreme stress to the stiching. If your leather is like most of the seats in these cars not only is it showing cracks but the leather is getting thin(showing worn spots). Not to mention the harm done to the seats from the weather and age. This is European leather with European specs on the preparing and dying of the leather. What I have found to give the best results is to use a high quality leather cleaner over the entire area. Then go back and use a soft bristle toothbrush with the cleaner on areas in question. If as you said it is not the leather that is cracked this should take care of it. If just the dyed surface is gone then you will need to look at touching up the dye. I had this problem as well (still do). My solution was one that worked for me and has not been a turn off to people looking at the car at shows. I covered my seats with ginger colored sheepskin seat covers. This is a period correct solution. In Europe before the days of heated and cooled seats they used sheepskin seat covers. I know this does not fix the present seat but it does preserve it from getting worse.

This only partially answers/addresses your question. One product you may want to consider is the 3m spray adhesive. It used by many to attach the soft top to the metal parts on the frame. The other thing you may want to do is go by an auto upostery shop and ask. I had to do the exact same thing you are doing. They gave me the name and that is what I used. Sorry I do not remember the name. However what was key about the product was that it stayed plyable. Good luck

It was a great day. Jim Lang and I were both there with our TC's. Mine is an all original 1989 2nd owner and Jim's is a 1991 restored. Jim took 3rd place in the Maseratti class. 1st place was taken by a 1980 Merak SS.

For those close to the Atlanta area or those willing to drive. Here is the link to the show in the Atlanta area. Hope to see some of you there. http://www.italiancardayatlanta.com

Have a friend that has a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummings Diesel 5.9. It is leaking fuel on the top around the water separator wires. There is a black rubber grommet coming out to the top of the fuel filter housing were the 2 wires come out. Checked with the dealer and can not get the grommet but he could get the whole fuel filter housing. Cost $1,600. Another person told him to just put a good Silicon around the top. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Now that I got under the hood clean and have added a center cap to my Oil Cap. I am ready to take it to a show.

That is how much coffee I had getting all the clue off. First I tried a 3m, it takes paint off. Then Goof off, it takes paint off. Then I tried WD40 and it came off with out taking the paint off. Using just a rag at first it was taking way to long. So I got a heavy piece of plastic to use like a putty knife. It still took awhile and and took more than one pass. I then used the pressure washer to rinse all the stuff off as I went along. Then used a clean rag and tar remover to get the last of the film off. I then compounded and waxed. I am happy with the results and I am no longer ashamed to raise my hood.

Thanks I have contacted the person on the link you provided. I will let you know what he says.

Is the AC compressor pulley suppose to have a cover over it?

The original hood liner on my TC disintegrated years ago. I was going to just remove all the old glue from the under side of the hood. I found that was not a very good option because I was taking just as much paint off as I was glue. What I wanted to do was add the quilted hood liner fabric in place of the oem style. It just looks more up scale as this is what I have seen on some of the older high end cars. Does anyone know where that fabric can be found? Is it cost prohibitive? I think it would look good. What would really set it off would be to have pentrident stitched in it so it would look like a factory item. Just a thought.

looks good to me. I think the broken center caps just found a new home. Does anyone have any broken ones for sale?

Do you have a center cap for a wheel. I do not care if the prongs are broken off. I want one to put on my Oil cap.

just a thought. Have you looked into getting another face plate? I think that is what I would look into doing so I could keep my original one intact. If the head unit has a face plate would it be possible to take a Drimal and cut out what was needed around the opening so the head unit will slide into place. If it is a flush mount (no face plate). As the old carpenter said "measure twice cut once." Then could you pull the head unit out flush with the front of the bezel so the cut edge does not show. If all else fails pull out the duct tape and black spray paint.

I have been thinking that this will also fit on top of the Oil Filler cap. Have measured both and they are both less than 2". Has anyone done or tried this?

I am still looking for this part. I have been out of the loop for some time. Marty Mopar do you still have these parts or any one else that may have it? If so please email at mtmccain AT ymail.com. Thanks

Moparite is right you will need to replace the receiver/drier. When I changed mine over I also changed out all the "O" rings.

The part no. you gave is the one that I had. This part is no longer available. At least that is what the Chrysler parts department at the Chattanooga dealer is saying. If you know where I can get it please let me know.

Yes it has three.

I have the 89 2.2 T. My Crankcase Vent Valve is cracked and therefore it is leaking oil. This is the black plastic valve coming out the back left side of the valve cover. I was able to replace the Crankcase Vent which is on top of the Crankcase Vent Valve. However neither a parts place nor Chrysler has this part anymore. Any suggestions has to repair or replace this item. Thanks in advance.

The items that I purchased to make this are as follows: 1. 48" x 1 1/4" angle aluminum (cut to fit) 38" 2. 48" x 1 1/2" aluminum (cut to fit) 38" 3. 38" x 8" x 1/4" thick plexiglass 4. 2 2' corner brackets 5. 10 1/2" screws 6. Velcro cost of the above was under $40 Decal cost me more than all the other. To put in place raise the cover place corner brackets behind latches velcro close the cover. When not using I store in trunk.

I just made the following wind blocker. Cost less than $50.00 to make and about 3 hours. The most expensive part was the decal of the PenTrident.

Thought I put this in the TC group.

This sounds like fun Italian Car Day 7 Nov. 1000-1500 Lillian Web Park, Norcross, GA http://www.italiancardayatlanta.com/ If you live around the Atlanta, GA area this may be a fun day. I hope to go. See you there. Opps, I posted the first time in wrong group. I guess they will be trying to figure out what I am talking about. (hope they dont get to mad)

Mark your Calendars. Saturday November 7th from 1000-1500 Lillian Webb Park Norcross, GA. All Italian Car Show http://www.italiancardayatlanta.com/ Sounds like fun. If you live close to the Atlanta area you may want to spend the day there. I hope to go. See You There

My TC could not pass emissions test due to no Cat. Just moved to Chat. TN they require it. So I put an Antique tag on car. Can only drive weekends and car shows. They will ticket (I know) So I got another daily driver same category as TC (no body wants it) not the same class. This thang is butt ugly. Mama would have to put a bone In the seat to even get the dog to ride in it. Got your barff bags? I got a 2002 Pontiac Aztek and I love it. I plan on taking it to car shows with the TC just to hear people moan. Somebodies got to love them might as well be me:rolleyes: