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About RogerS351

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  • Birthday 07/12/1969

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  1. Using a wide angle lens and being close to the subject will change the depth perception. So too will a telephoto lens and being a long way away. Might be why the panels look small in comparison to the background.
  2. Hi Micheal, I'm in the Hobart area. I'll send you a PM. Cheers, Roger.
  3. The 2mm uncured rubber arrived so it's now replaced the felt. We still need to drill some hollows in the new wood to clear some rivets which were previously just pushing into the felt a bit but otherwise it's all good. There's still much head scratching with regards to the doors as my father is naturally reluctant to cut through the bridle joint. In the meantime I extended the "replacement" rear door sills with a bit more metal so they'd actually fit. I also tried my hand at using body solder for the first time which proved interesting but I managed to figure it out. I would have taken some photos but my wife has taken the digital camera to her mothers for a week. Does anyone have any photos of the wood in the rear floor and seat area we might be able to use as a template? We don't even have the springs for the rear seat so I'm not even sure where the floor is supposed to end and the rear seat start.
  4. Yes it was a good looking ute. Alas the conversion back to a tourer was started twenty years ago although I'll now admit leaving it as a ute would have been much easier. We could have then nailed a sofa down in the back and given the passengers an umbrella - it's almost the same as a tourer.
  5. Hi Tony, Yes, I believe that was my father. Small world. Thanks for the hints with the doors. We'll have a go at twisting them tomorrow. Today was spent moving the tub back a bit as the tolerances were too tight for the doors to fit properly. Slow progress, that's for sure. Cheers, Roger.
  6. For those interested I thought I'd add a picture of what it looked like when we got it all those years ago (minus the headlights which were safely stored in the shed).
  7. Hi Tony, Thanks for that. Yes, as you guessed I'm in Australia, Tassie actually - I'll update the location in my profile in a minute. What you say makes sense so we'll ditch the felt and use rubber instead. I had a look on the Spectrum website but the thickest uncured rubber I could see was 2mm. Did you use multiple layers of this or is there some thicker stuff hidden somewhere in the catalogue? I'm heading down to my parents tomorrow to do some more tweaking to try and get the doors to fit properly. They're also a bit twisted which is proving frustrating. Then I'll leave my father to guess how to fashion a rear floor and seat frame whilst I'm fixing up the scratched paint job I finished fifteen years ago. BTW you didn't by any chance have a '23 for sale about twenty years ago did you? Roger.
  8. My father and I are in the process of restoring a 1926 Dodge tourer. This would have to be one of the longest restorations ever as he started it in the mid 1980's. Now that he's retired I'm pushing him to finish it. At some point in its past it was converted to a ute so when he bought it the rear tub (that's what we've always called it but there might be a better name) and rear doors were sitting in the back of the tray. In other words we're putting some of it back together by guesswork. The front section was mounted on the chassis with some felt and rubber blocks (in chassis-felt-rubber-body order). What we're trying to figure out is firstly if this was original and secondly if so if the rear section was also mounted in this manner (it would mean quite a large gap between the frame above the petrol tank and the bottom of the tub). If anyone can help point us in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated. Roger.