Carsnz123

Progress is slow but steady whtbaron it all relies on me having spare time and money. as far as i am aware my engine is a T334 and i think someone failed with the 'T' stamp. your engine being a Canadian model will probably be a 25 inch head model and have slightly different bore/stroke measurements to mine I think. I wish I had a heated workshop but summer is coming on here in New Zealand so I wont have to worry about hiking through snow only making sure i don't get sun burnt. My engine is coming together with all the hard stuff done and now all I have to do is bolt the exterior stuff on and hope it doesn't blow up first run! the head has been into the machine shop and had 40 thou taken off. my plan is to build headers and a resonant intake manifold that will mount a Holley 450 economizer carb. The carburetor is designed as an economy option for big V8s and can be used as a performance option for smaller sixes around the 230 cui mark. designing the manifold is proving difficult though as the port that feeds 1/2 and 5/6 suck in at 240 then 480 degree intervals where as the port that feeds 3/4 sucks in at 360 degree intervals. Has anyone got some designs they are willing to share and save me the time coming up with my own? my plan for a gearbox is to use a 1940s Dodge WC or WD transmission, the big gap between first and second should be interesting but with a 3.5:1 diff it should do 175 KPH (110 MPH) at 4000 RPM which I think will be plenty fast enough. it also means that it will cruse at 100 KPH (60 MPH) doing 2300 RPM. progress is probably going to grind to a halt with end of year exams coming up in the next month ( Yay soon to be rid of school!!!!) and I have to find myself a proper job to fund my projects. last of all a couple of questions 1, What is this hole for in number 6 combustion chamber? it had a bolt screwed into it from the top but it does not go all the way down. 2, I have found more numbers stamped on the engine, What do the mean? the first pic is of the machines surface on the far right of the head and the second is on the surface there thermostat housing bolts on.

I have a problem that is holding up the works on my dodge truck engine rebuild. How do I get the front oil seal out if the chain case cover? Another thing is I have a NOS cork sump gasket that is a little hard after being in a paper bag for 60 years, so what do I soak it in to soften it up a little? Also what are your thoughts on making a manifold to run this 230 cui 'beast' on a Holley 4 barrel carb? And what is the highest compression ratio I can go up to with this engine?

I'm rebuilding a 1955 dodge truck 230 cui Flathead 6 for my 1925 Chrysler project and I cant find any info on how tight to make the bolts on the camshaft sprocket. I have a workshop manual but it only mentions the tension for the V8 camshaft which is 35 ft.lb. when i tightened the bolts to this I broke the first one. what should the tension of the camshaft sprocket bolts be? HELP!!

I think this one is Chrysler Flathead 6. The water pump design changed quite a lot over the years.

What is the serial number on the engine? There should also be casting dates on the head, block and the underside of the exhaust manifold. What engine is in the black one and do i spy with my little eye something beginning with "T"??

reminds me of this

The pic is real. If you look behind the ford it is casting a shadow on the ground and the of the corvette, this is very hard to do in photoshop. Also if you look between the left front wheel of the ford and the back of the corvette you can see the crushed roof of the corvette.

This here is something. 1930 Packard Bentley "Mavis" Based on a 1930 8-liter Bentley chassis the car uses a V12 42 liter Packard 4M 2500 engine out of a PT Boat. The engine belches out 1100 Kw and 2700 Nm of torque plus a lot of fire. This car is massive with a curb wight of 2.4 tons and did I mention the Dustbin-sized supercharger that turns 2.4 times the speed of the engine and that the inlet manifold is 165 mm in diameter!!!!! I really want to see this in real life and take it for a spin.

I Know a Daimler with 1NCTRL on it. The funny thing is the 2 cars the plate was previously on were written off .

Hey Gary great job on the car so far. I see that you have 3D modeled parts of it and was wondering what program you used? I was thinking of modeling My Chrysler Speedster as i am undecided on what the body will look like. Will

http://jalopnik.com/what-does-a-high-end-camera-company-have-to-do-with-old-1605156555 I think this might shed some light on the matter. long story short its an indicator as cahartley guessed.

Just adding my 2 cents worth, I have had no end of trouble with our 1929 Plymouth and its electrics recently. i spent the last few months rewiring the lighting system because of it blowing fuses as soon as i put them. the insulation on the 80 year old wire had broken down and was touching the chassis causing a very hard to find short. the voltage regulator works on a system of an electromagnet and i wouldn't be surprised if the lacquer(or enamel, dont know what is used on that wire) insulation on the coil of wire has broken down causing the component to fail.

How can a LED be polarity insensitive? LED is Light Emitting Diode and only let current through one way? also if they are wired in series then depending on how many there is a 6 volt battery might not have enough energy to activate them.

Going off this i think the cap that came with my car is a later one because it has no feathers on the inside of the wings. also some bastard has chopped a good portion of them off.

Hi mike, Is this the same cap which is on the 1925 Chrysler 70? And is it a genuine one?

Rusty, I thought the 40's plymouth six's used a bolt on neoprene seal. I have been struggling to find one here in nz for my '55 dodge engine. Either way the crankshaft had to come out to make the job eiser so... out comes engine!

hahaha gotta love em.

Hi mcgoo my spring shackles are 55mm centre to centre and the top of my springs are 350mm from the bottom of the chassis. In regards to the u shape bits bolted to the springs out 1929 Plymouth has them on it so I think it is a factory thing but I have no idea what they do. Also my springs only have 9 leaves in them. Hope this helps Carsnz

Some pictures as promised. The engine When I bought it home. Stripping the engine down for rebuild. I think number 6 piston is a bit buggered but there was no damage to the bore besides the rust. The remains of all 6 top rings The block back from the machine shop all nice and clean and shiny nos 0.030 over pistons What do these numbers mean? the first pic is the bottom of the oil pump mount, the 2nd and 3rd pics are of the bottom of the block and the last is the intake and exhaust ports. I'll Measure the springs tomorrow mcgoo.

I thought that as well but the math works. I'll have to check with my chemistry teacher on Monday

thanks for the advice and info guys. tonight's focus has been on combustion chamber pressure and burning of fuel. i found out that the flame front speed of petrol in an engine is roughly 16.5 m/s and the optimum air/fuel ratio for petrol is about 15:1. When petrol burns it releases 5370.27 KJ/mol. I'm not entirely sure what is in petrol http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxprofiles/tp72-c3.pdf this has alot but the combustion of octane goes 2C8H18 + 25O2 --> 16CO2 + 18H2O. so we have a product ratio of 8CO2:9H2O. H2O takes roughly 2 times as much energy to raise it one kelvin as CO2. according to some rules of expansion i cant quite remember all gasses take up an extra 1/273.15 space when they gain an extra 1 kelvin are at the same pressure. so after some long calculations i couldn't be bothered typing out i calculated that the products of combustion expand 135% from the excess heat of the reaction as long as all the energy goes to the gasses and we all know it doesn't. Just clarifying an engine works on gas expansion doesn't it? now going back to flame front speed and using my dodge engine as an example, the flame has to travel 120mm to get from the spark plug to the furthest away part of the combustion chamber. with the engine at 1200 rpm ( max torque speed ) it takes the flame 0.00727 seconds to travel that distance and in that time the the engine has rotated 52.33 degrees and the piston has traveled 34.16mm down the cylinder. now i have to work out the relervence of that in relation to pressure in the cylinder. still got lots of work to do and any help is welcomed and greatly received. Carsnz123

it seems that by my research and your help the main factors i need to research is the force the fuel being used burns with (pressure in the combustion chamber), the efficiency of combustion and the drag of the engine mechanicals. ignition type,timing and spark plugs probably will be included in the efficiency factor. Spinney that grandprix engine website has a lot of very interesting history and data and is very helpful also I got the torque for the straight six from the workshop manual for one of the passenger cars so i suppose it might be torque at the rear wheels.

hi there I'm computer programing as a project for school and I thought it might be fun to create an engine power calculator to go along side the 100's of others on the internet. my question is can you calculate torque with some formula involving the bore, stroke and compression pressure of an engine rather than using the " HP=2pi(T)(RPM)/33000 " formula? That involves knowing the HP or the torque to calculate the other, what if you don't know either and need the torque to sub in to the formula? I know that: torque = force*distance and pressure = force/area so working out the torque of a 230cui inline 6 dodge (3.25 bore, 4.625 stroke, 150psi compression) should go (I'm going to work in metric but I'll convert to imperial at the end) force=pressure * area f = 1034000pa * 0.005352sqm(area of 1 piston) f =5534 Newtons T = f*d T = 5534*0.0587m(half stroke) T= 325 Nm T= 239 ftlb My result is a lot higher than the 177 ftlb that the workshop manual is saying so what an I doing wrong? Cheers Carsnz123

Now that I have amazed you I'm a little worried I might get shot down by some of the older guys. I'm 17 and still at school so algebra and of the likes are fresh in my mind, that being said ON WITH THE MAGIC!!! http://www.classiccardatabase.com/specs.php?series=1684&year=1925&model=5227 On this page down the bottom of the right hand column it has the serial number range of the 1925 Chrysler cars. sadly they start at 32813 not 0. so we minus 32813 from 55800 and also your serial number 51522 so we end up the last production number of 22987 and your chassis is number is 18709. if we go 18709/22987=0.814 we get that your car was produced about 80% along the run. 0.814*365=297 so it might have been produced on the 297th day of 1925 but I wouldn't go as far as being that accurate so the 297th of 1925 is 24th of October 1925 so it might have been made somewhere in the month of October maybe early November.(I think this is the part where I'm supposed to say TA DAA and there is a big applause) As I said earlier this is assuming they produce the same number of cars daily and as my physics teacher likes to say "your answer is only as good as your data" so if the numbers on classic car database are wrong then my theory is done.

Seeing as I have nothing to to at the moment I did some calculations and assuming that production was constant (the made the same number of cars each day) yours might be some where around October 1925.