Laughing Coyote

My 61 Mercury with a 352 came with a black block and turquoise air cleaner and valve covers. The 390 has black block and gold valve covers and air cleaner. The 332 should have a red color on the valve covers and air cleaner. This was so when a mechanic opened the hood of the car he knew what engine he was dealing with by the color combos. The Ford engines didn't change color until the mid 60's when they all went to Ford blue on everything.

Looks like they're already marking their spots. Nice to have room.

and with all the tech I'm sure they can be remotely turned off too. Any additional features you would want to use is an additional subscription fee.

Not bad looking. My take would be round the backs of the rear fender openings and extend the door length about 6" - 8" to get that long look like the automotive flyers had of cars in the old days.

Here's one on my local CL. https://tucson.craigslist.org/pts/d/tucson-67-riviera-quadrajet/7684735350.html

A bunch.

Thought I would add an update. The car came with solid engine mounts and when driving the car you could feel a vibration all around the car. You couldn't pinpoint any vibrations coming from the rear of the car or else where. The extra parts the PO gave me with the car included new rubber motor mounts. I changed them out yesterday evening and took it out today to see how it does. The vibration was gone and the rear half of the car seems to be good with no issues since all of the work that I done on the rotating parts. The driveshaft U joints will be next and eventually new tires that are the same size as stock. The ones on it now are a series to small and have a stiffer side wall. It will have a better ride once they get changed out. Getting better each time something else gets done.

Looks nice. Going to be nice when you get to start driving it around.

I would think the side where your thumb is at. The other side looks more straight across. Put a straight edge along the flats.

Truck looks good. Sorry for all the issues you're having. I used Blue Streak brand points. Seemed to be made well and work good. I think they will be labeled under Standard. Worth checking into.

Just my thought, but could any of these rivets be worn or broken and causing the center section of the differential to move?

By looking at the last picture with them pretty low I bet it's a lot.

I wouldn't say rare....I would say well done.

Lathi35, I went through my receipts on the Mercury and the plug wires I have are Prestolite 128033. They worked out great and have the proper ends and fit for my 352. Maybe worth looking in to.

From what your describing it sounds and looks just like a real project car. At least you won't get dirty and have to lift heavy parts. Good luck Billy.

I don't know exactly where to post these, but they are left over from a body mount kit that I ordered for my Mercury restoration. They are in new condition and are not hard. I have 18 pcs total and some extra pieces I will throw in. Free, just pay for shipping. 1 11/16" OD 7/8" ID 3/4" thick

Free timing chain cam gear. It's for a Ford FE engine. If you want it just pay for shipping. Thanks

I have a Ford power steering reservoir that I do not need. It's clean inside and out and will need a filter element and gasket rebuild kit. $30 plus shipping. I'm located in AZ.

And something soft to lay on.

Just an update from this past Saturday. Rebuilt the passenger side caliper with no issues. Got my last rotor in on Friday so that was ready to go. Packed the bearings and got everything installed and brakes bled. Now it actually has real brakes and stops great. Still have to work the pads in some more. One thing I also did a week ago was take the choke thermostat off the intake manifold and reset the heating coil so it pulls the linkage on the carb all the way down like it's suppose too. It was always had to hard start when cold and never really kept the choke engaged and you would have to float the throttle to keep it running. Know it runs on the high circuit like it should. Tap the pedal and it drops it down. I was even more amazed that when I started it for the first time in about three weeks it fired right up after cranking it for about 6-7 seconds without even hitting the gas pedal. I would say the carb is working nicely. Plus the new valve cover gaskets fixed the leaking covers, but time will tell after driving it some. So I will have to put some more miles on it now knowing it's a more dependable and safer car to drive.

Yesterday evening I pulled all the front parts on the passenger side. Started to go thru them today. The caliper was pretty bad. It had some anti squeak crud all over the pad backing which got all over the caliper pistons and gummed stuff up. Not to mention that the pistons were caked with crud inside and wouldn't move. So I was driving the car for a little bit with a leaking drivers side caliper and fluid soaked pads and a caliper on the passenger side that wasn't even working. No wonder it didn't brake well. Getting it all fixed now, should work great.

What did you ever do about the stereo?

Was able to finish up the drivers side last night. Now starting to tackle the passenger side. Same as the drivers side. Rotor that is 50 years old and the bearings weren't tightened enough and have play in them. The good thing is that the caliper isn't leaking, but it has to come apart and get cleaned up and checked anyway. The new rotor will be here Thursday so hopefully I will have the front end finished, the valve covers back on and ready for a test ride this weekend. The only thing that I would need to address down the road sooner than later would be U joints for the main drive shaft since I don't know how old they are or how much abuse they've had.

Got the brake pads and rotors coming. The valve cover gaskets came in today so I put one side on. They're rubber with a steel inside. Hope that fixes the leaking. I will tackle the other side as I wait for the front brake stuff to come in. I posted the engine information so you can see why it's a blast to drive.

I noticed in your video that the fuel line looks really close to the exhaust manifold. You may want to route it farther away from it. You wouldn't want to have a fire or cause the fuel to boil off. Does sound like the belt.