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Laughing Coyote

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Posts posted by Laughing Coyote

  1. What about flex seal? Comes in different colors, even grey.

     

    FLEX SEAL®

    LIQUID RUBBER IN A CAN

    All the same leak-stopping power of the original Flex Seal, in vibrant colors! Sprays out as a thick liquid, seeps into cracks and holes, and dries to a watertight, flexible, rubberized coating that will Stop Leaks Fast®. Once dry, can be painted any color.

    Also available in new, larger Flex Seal MAX.

    • Roof and gutter repair

    • Weatherize your home

    • Foundation and concrete waterproofing

    • Indoor and outdoor projects

    • Seal cracks and holes

    • Pools and pool equipment

    • RV and motorhome repairs

    • Auto and boat repairs

    • Bathroom fixes

    • Furniture repair

    • Crafts and hobbies, and more.

    Works on: Wood, metal, tile, concrete, masonry, fabric, glass, plastic, aluminum, porcelain, dry wall, rubber, cement, some vinyl’s and more.

    Options shown are 14 oz. Get more value with our new larger 17 oz Flex Seal MAX size.  Available for black, white and clear options.

    IT’S LIKE THE HOOVER DAM IN A CAN®

  2. Came across this beauty on CL the other day. For all you guys that like the heavier projects this one looks pretty cool. Never seen one.

    https://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/tucson-chevy-c60-coe/7736870812.html

    Old cab over engine 2 ton Chevy. Neat truck, inline 292 6 cylinder with a manual transmission and a 2 speed rear end. I have the title from the 70’s for it as well as the lien release. It appears to have been shortened. Has been parked for some time, possibly the 80’s? I did pull the spark plugs and found rust on #6 cylinder and possible evidence of water on #2. The motor is definitely stuck, it may free up, but I’m not sure. It would be better with a V8 anyway. There is definitely rust on the cab. There is an extra piece of glass in the truck but it’s cracked. Located in Tucson AZ.

    Chevy C60 COE 1

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    • Like 4
  3. Quote
    51 minutes ago, TAKerry said:

    Have you done body bushings before?

    Not on a Vette, but there's plenty of info out there. You have to use a sling with hooks that hook to a metal lip at the bottom of the body. I'm going to use an engine hoist. Just has to come up a few inches. Just want to be careful not to crack any fiberglass. something like this, but not as extreme.

     

    1963-1982 Corvette Body Lift - Corvette Central Tech Blog

    • Like 4
  4. Got all the bolts out and what a relief. Made a little tap extension so I could run a tap back through the nut plates to help clean the crud out of them. Also made a spreader bar and lift brackets for when I get to lift the body and put the new bushings in. If all goes to plan I will be doing it this weekend. Have to still loosen up some brackets and check things so I don't have any issues while lifting. Slow and steady wins the race.

     

    • Like 4
  5. Steve, The Rally's with the red line look nice, but the white letters are nice too. Since my Vette will need tires I thought of going black wall, but may stay with white letter. The Rally wheel is a classic wheel where pretty much any type of tire looks nice on them. True classic style. I will have to see what you choose.

    • Like 1
  6. Time for an update. Haven't gotten to the door hinge bushings yet, but one thing that has been bothering me was shortly after getting the car and looking it over I noticed the passenger side rear tire sticks out a little farther than the drivers side. After looking it over from under the car when it was on the lift you can tell the body is not sitting squarely on the frame. The PO put the body on the frame and didn't realize how bad it was until I showed him. The body mounts are original and in bad shape, so I ordered new ones and begun getting the car ready to swap them out. The rear (#4) ones are always bad and rusty so they ended up being cut to get the bolt out. The rest came out fairly easy, but I have the one in front of the drivers rear wheel that is causing issues and getting really tight. I don't want it to spin the nut in the cage, because I have no way to get to it unless I cut the frame under it. Then I would have to patch the frame after I get it out. Hoping it goes ok and comes out. Then new bushings go in and on to the doors. Aren't old cars great.

     

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    • Like 8
  7. A lot of you know about this car on the Forum and the amount on work that has been done to it so far. This is a very solid southwest car and has had all the mechanicals done. It still needs a little body work on the doors, final prime and paint on the quarters. The trunk is ready for paint also. The car will need weatherstrip, interior and front and quarter window glass. I have all the parts to the car, even several boxes of NOS stuff. Some duplicate parts. If you were to find a solid southwest car and get it to this point you would easily be in it $15K. For a little more money and time you would have an unique car that would be enjoyable to drive. I won't have the time for quite a while to get back on it so it would be best for it to go to someone that can finish it. $7500. PM me for questions. Thanks

     

     

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  8. 4 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

    Some continuity testing this morning reveals that the field coils are shorted to the case.

    At least you know what happened and you're not hunting for the problem of why it's happening. You have a good car and it has proven to be reliable last year while driving it around with your family. Once you get it straightened out again you will be on the road enjoying it with your family again. Don't be too upset, that's what old cars do. They test you.

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1
  9. Little update on the Vette. It's been running and driving great. Still have a punch list of little things here and there. The last time I drove it though after I got home I noticed coolant dripping from under the radiator cap. I just move it a little and it leaked more. After it was cool enough to see what was going on I noticed that the radiator cap gasket was just barely enough to seal on the raised neck flange. I found the correct size cap with a gasket that covers the whole inside of the lid and solved the problem of a dripping cap. The next thing I'm going to tackle is the doors. The passenger side bushings are still in good shape and the door just needs a little adjustments for a better fit. The drivers door is suffering from the GM saggy door syndrome and the bottom bushings are pretty worn. (See pics) While the door panels are off I will be getting the window tracks cleaned and lubed so they go up and down smoother. 

     

     

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    • Like 12
  10. I stumbled on to this. It's not a factory part, but it may get you closer to some kind of answer. I know it's a 4 speed car so this probably won't do much of anything for you. Just trying to throw stuff out there.

    https://sportcompactwarehouse.com/b-m-racing-70209-speedo-cable-generator-for-gm-converter-lock-up-control-part-70244-generator-does-not-come-with-extende?Year=1979&Make=Pontiac&Model=Firebird&srsltid=AfmBOoqf-50UOQJyp-0lddATmmtqGLpdFPZJth4t4QT5LaGD3PRT7U_nVEo

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