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Laughing Coyote

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Everything posted by Laughing Coyote

  1. Nope. It's a 20 footer paint job at best. It's okay, but pretty trashed up close. Lots of bubbling, cracks, and chips. Who ever painted it didn't prep it well and the paint was laid down sub par. It's suppose to be a blue-green metallic. I waxed it to get it to look a little better, but not to worried about it. I'm getting the mechanicals done first and paint will be last. The poor car has had a hard life.
  2. I hear you on that Matt. Changed out 8 body bushings on my 73 Vette today. Rolling around on the floor, tugging, lifting, and everything else to get them all in. Now I'm sitting here with a sore back and aches in places I haven't felt in a while. The love of old cars.
  3. I used one of those metal washers with the rubber seal fused into the ID of the washer. No leaks.
  4. Last weekend wasn't a go for the mounts, but today was. By the pictures what could possibly go wrong. Glad nothing did. Worked out pretty good and my wife was willing to help out any way she could. Was a lot of hard work rolling around on the floor of the garage and prying and pulling and everything else to get them all in. Not too bad, but something that I don't want to do again anytime soon. Still have to tighten the rear ones, but I have to reinstall the nut plates, but the others are ready to go. The old ones looked pretty crusty and were about done. Now I get to put all the thousand brackets back on and on to the door bushings.
  5. Guilty! You know as soon as you throw it out you will need it for something a month or two later. Then you have to buy it again and it's a cheaper version of what you had and costs twice as much.
  6. What about flex seal? Comes in different colors, even grey. FLEX SEAL® LIQUID RUBBER IN A CAN All the same leak-stopping power of the original Flex Seal, in vibrant colors! Sprays out as a thick liquid, seeps into cracks and holes, and dries to a watertight, flexible, rubberized coating that will Stop Leaks Fast®. Once dry, can be painted any color. Also available in new, larger Flex Seal MAX. • Roof and gutter repair • Weatherize your home • Foundation and concrete waterproofing • Indoor and outdoor projects • Seal cracks and holes • Pools and pool equipment • RV and motorhome repairs • Auto and boat repairs • Bathroom fixes • Furniture repair • Crafts and hobbies, and more. Works on: Wood, metal, tile, concrete, masonry, fabric, glass, plastic, aluminum, porcelain, dry wall, rubber, cement, some vinyl’s and more. Options shown are 14 oz. Get more value with our new larger 17 oz Flex Seal MAX size. Available for black, white and clear options. IT’S LIKE THE HOOVER DAM IN A CAN®
  7. Came across this beauty on CL the other day. For all you guys that like the heavier projects this one looks pretty cool. Never seen one. https://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/tucson-chevy-c60-coe/7736870812.html Old cab over engine 2 ton Chevy. Neat truck, inline 292 6 cylinder with a manual transmission and a 2 speed rear end. I have the title from the 70’s for it as well as the lien release. It appears to have been shortened. Has been parked for some time, possibly the 80’s? I did pull the spark plugs and found rust on #6 cylinder and possible evidence of water on #2. The motor is definitely stuck, it may free up, but I’m not sure. It would be better with a V8 anyway. There is definitely rust on the cab. There is an extra piece of glass in the truck but it’s cracked. Located in Tucson AZ.
  8. Being in the Southwest there aren't many barns around. The car finds can be in someone's back yard covered with a blue tarp and a mean dog. Usually in the not so nice parts of town in the more run down hoods. Seen a bunch of cars and trucks when I'm out and about running errands.
  9. My 73 Corvette with a hopped up 454 is around 10 - 11mpg on high octane, unless I mash it then the mpg drops pretty quickly. A lot of horses that need to drink.
  10. Did you check all your vacuum blend doors to make sure there's no leaks?
  11. Yours should bring more since it has that barn find look and patina. Can't duplicate that.
  12. Not on a Vette, but there's plenty of info out there. You have to use a sling with hooks that hook to a metal lip at the bottom of the body. I'm going to use an engine hoist. Just has to come up a few inches. Just want to be careful not to crack any fiberglass. something like this, but not as extreme.
  13. Got all the bolts out and what a relief. Made a little tap extension so I could run a tap back through the nut plates to help clean the crud out of them. Also made a spreader bar and lift brackets for when I get to lift the body and put the new bushings in. If all goes to plan I will be doing it this weekend. Have to still loosen up some brackets and check things so I don't have any issues while lifting. Slow and steady wins the race.
  14. Steve, The Rally's with the red line look nice, but the white letters are nice too. Since my Vette will need tires I thought of going black wall, but may stay with white letter. The Rally wheel is a classic wheel where pretty much any type of tire looks nice on them. True classic style. I will have to see what you choose.
  15. Time for an update. Haven't gotten to the door hinge bushings yet, but one thing that has been bothering me was shortly after getting the car and looking it over I noticed the passenger side rear tire sticks out a little farther than the drivers side. After looking it over from under the car when it was on the lift you can tell the body is not sitting squarely on the frame. The PO put the body on the frame and didn't realize how bad it was until I showed him. The body mounts are original and in bad shape, so I ordered new ones and begun getting the car ready to swap them out. The rear (#4) ones are always bad and rusty so they ended up being cut to get the bolt out. The rest came out fairly easy, but I have the one in front of the drivers rear wheel that is causing issues and getting really tight. I don't want it to spin the nut in the cage, because I have no way to get to it unless I cut the frame under it. Then I would have to patch the frame after I get it out. Hoping it goes ok and comes out. Then new bushings go in and on to the doors. Aren't old cars great.
  16. Broaching it out to 3/8" would probably be the easiest, but taking into consideration how much material you have to work with and will it pose any mechanical or engineering issues. Pictures may help us more.
  17. A lot of you know about this car on the Forum and the amount on work that has been done to it so far. This is a very solid southwest car and has had all the mechanicals done. It still needs a little body work on the doors, final prime and paint on the quarters. The trunk is ready for paint also. The car will need weatherstrip, interior and front and quarter window glass. I have all the parts to the car, even several boxes of NOS stuff. Some duplicate parts. If you were to find a solid southwest car and get it to this point you would easily be in it $15K. For a little more money and time you would have an unique car that would be enjoyable to drive. I won't have the time for quite a while to get back on it so it would be best for it to go to someone that can finish it. $7500. PM me for questions. Thanks
  18. At least you know what happened and you're not hunting for the problem of why it's happening. You have a good car and it has proven to be reliable last year while driving it around with your family. Once you get it straightened out again you will be on the road enjoying it with your family again. Don't be too upset, that's what old cars do. They test you.
  19. I would suggest brass rod and resin, but not knowing how thick the housing material is may be of concern due to the heat. Don't want to melt it away and should be really clean before brazing.
  20. Doesn't look to hard to fabricate something. If it's just a spin on filter that goes inside of the can.
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