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About Gottabblackngray

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  • Birthday 01/22/1970
  1. I maybe didn't emphasize enough but, yeah you want to use top-shelf products in whatever paint line you go with. I have sprayed Glasurit on a few classics. Very good stuff. I believe they are in the BASF family of paints. All paint company's have their cheaper line of materials and they have there place. Some dealerships like to use cheaper materials that will just look good just long enough for them to get it sold. I use Axalta (DuPont) Premier Paints. The Glasurit I used was a single stage solid color on a 48 Plymouth. I added clear to the final coat for easier buffing. That was 20
  2. You definitely want to go with a basecoat/clearcoat system. Most are Urethane. If you are doing it yourself you should stay with the same brand such as Axalta,Sikkens, Diamont, PPG so everything is compatable from your primers to the sealer the basecoat and the Clear. Very important in your area to make sure you get enough mil thickness on your Clearcoat. Some of the cheaper clears are thinner and require more coats to get enough film build especially if you are gonna sand and buff afterwards. I had a young fella bring in a cowl induction hood for me to paint and he brought his own paint
  3. If the paint on your grille isn't peeling off it is not necessary to strip it or blast it. The first thing you would wanna do is wash it with hot soapy water then either scuff with scotch-brite pad or sand with 320-400 grit. Then wash with the hot soapy water again. If you have any burn thru's where you have bare plastic you should hit that with a plastic adhesion promoter DuPont has one in an aerosol can, then you can paint with your choice of paint SEM has quite a selection of plastic trim paints in aerosol. I have painted grilles and emblems and then taken a rag dampened with lacquer
  4. You can remove with piano wire you just have to be extra careful not to cut the molding that surrounds the glass. I have the removal tools but also used piano wire on the top when I removed mine
  5. It is 3M called Press In Place emblem adhesive #08069
  6. I believe it is 3M strips I have at the Bodyshop they come in a pack and it is like adhesive in a tube but without the mess. You set your letters on the tape and press then you pull off and adhesive is stuck to underside of letter very simple to get a good install without any adhesive showing where you don't want it. They are very slick and easy to use for those scripted type emblems that double backed tape would be time consuming
  7. I wouldn't hesitate to cut where you have marked as long as you make a nice cut and do a nice weld when you are done it will be just fine. If your worried about weakening it just add another plate across it and plug weld it over top but with a good weld you'll be just fine
  8. The lower reveal molding shouldn't be hard to find. There must be a weatherstrip missing that attaches to the A pillar along with the trim that is molded to the glass. Barney is correct the trim on the glass is cosmetic only the windshield urethane is what seals it from wind and water leaks. You possibly could cut the encapsulation off of a broken windshield and bond it back on but would be pretty tough to get it to look smooth
  9. Are you just missing the lower molding that is on the cowl where the wiper arms attach?
  10. The only way I would buy any headliner or vinyl material is if I could match it up to a sample. If you bought a burgundy material from 30 different suppliers you would probably have 15 different names for that color
  11. A lot of the time paint manufacturers give colors their own name. The other day I mixed up a color that GM called Steel Green and my Axalta formula called it Evolution Blue. The manufacturer code is the only thing you can follow
  12. Please don't cut any wires and splice them. If the fine folks at GM got em in there they will come out.
  13. You will probably have to disconnect all your wires inside the door and pull them through. GM didn't start with connections in the kick panel until late 90's
  14. Total automotive in Minnesota makes hinge kits. I've put lots of their deluxe kits in the 99-06 chevy silverado. The website doesn't show Reatta kits but has a form you can fill out to request one. I wouldn't be afraid to take hinge apart and just find the right size pins and brass bushing to fix myself or try Jim Finn in Minnesota for a good used hinge.
  15. If you can get ahold of some tabs Dent-Fix has a hot staple tool that I use quite often in the Bodyshop. It melts a wire into the plastic works very well and if you think it needs extra strength you can plastic weld on top. Every handyman should have these tools in their toolbox you'd be surprised how much use it would get
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