37 Buick Special
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Posts posted by 37 Buick Special
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That is a definite ditto MC although I am good for 4 or 5 days+ before I use the electric on my Ford. Buick not running yet.
Dave
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Actually a friend suggested ebay and low and behold, what did I find? The exact bushings I am looking for. And now that they have arrived they are right on.
Thanks again,
Dave
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Good point but the shaft seems to be an integral part of the frame and I would have no idea on how to remove it.
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OK great. I have visible wear on the shaft and the pedals had some horizontal movement. Let's hope the new bushing take care of most of that. Thanks.
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Did you have any wear on the shaft from the frame they mount on?
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Thank you, I will check.
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Thank you.
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Does anyone have a source for brake and clutch pedal bushings. This are brass bushings for the pedals where they slide onto the shaft that comes off the frame. Some wear on that shaft as well as I suspect the bushings so would like to replace them. There is side to side movement on the pedals.
Thanks
Dave
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Awesome Gary!!
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Gary,
Why did you decide to go with Dynamat in the back but not in the ffornt?
Dave
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Thank you gentlemen. I shall pursue your suggestions.
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Can anyone out there recommend where to go for a 37 master cylinder rebuild?
Thanks,
Dave
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Thank you sir!
Dave
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11 hours ago, dibarlaw said:
Dave :
The RI harness was very nice. I had a local shop install it while they were doing some work to get my 37 into driver condition.
On my to do list for them was a wiring harness and they suggested RI. Also on the list was to remove the added 1950s turn signal lights and get the harness with the extra wires to provide for turn signals incorporated into the parking lights and brake/tail lights.
They had promised to have the car ready to drive to the 2012 Buick Nationals in NC. After the first few monthly visits to their shop we saw that nothing was getting done and the owner said that they would not be able to get the car ready for the Nationals. He then said that it was a good Idea to get a new wiring harness. I reminded him that this was on my original list. The statement was that no way could they get the car done on time since RI would need at least a months lead time to make up the harness. I called RI and they said that they had the harness in stock. 2 months after the NC meet (that I was supposed to be able to drive to) they were still about 1/2 done. They had the harness installed, BUT, they put the wrong one in without the extra wiring for the turn signals. (they did take care of it by installing extra outside wiring and loom at an extra $300+). So, after a lot of runaround, things not done on the list, double cost estimates etc. I had to get the car back and end this relationship. When we got the car back I drove it a total of 2 miles when it quit at the busiest intersection at rush hour. I had to push it to the side of the road and tow it home. What I found was that even though they had installed a new harness they did not clean any connections and there were several incorrectly made connections. I redid all the connections and I have had no electrical issues since. By the way .. After they said that they could not meet their deadline the owner told me it was foolish of me to expect to drive my car to the Buick Meet 350 miles away. After I had repaired their work we have since driven the car to the 2013 South Bend meet 1,750 mile round trip. To Nashville TN. close to 1,900 miles and lastly to Brookfield WI at 1,915 miles including touring.
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13 hours ago, dibarlaw said:
Bloo:
The switch is out of my 1937-41. I did install a new wiring harness from Road Island Wiring.
Are you happy with the harness? I certainly need one.
Dave
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This dude is one master restorer. Super Gary!!!
Dave
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Yep, that car is owned by a friend of mine. It is spot on beautiful. Interior is maroon and not original in appearance but it looks great. Outside she is perfect. Running gear is modern but not visible to the casual observer. She is his daily driver. The dude lives, eats, dresses and talks 30's and 40's. Quite the guy. Was my inspiration to buy a 37, even turned out to be the same color.
Dave
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Thank you Glassesguy!
Dave
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Thanks Gary,
I did check your photos for that. HOWEVER, the head on my engine has two threaded holes for the studs. The center acorn was on a dummy stud. So the head must be later.
Again, fantastic postings you are doing. Quite the documentation for others in the future.
Dave
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MCHinson,
Thank you for your quick and informative reply. I will take a look to see what else is on the head.
OK, the only other castings on it are a GM and then a 12 and a 13. It has only two threaded holes for the studs that go into the head to hold the valve cover down with the acorn nuts. Seems it might be a much later head??
Thanks,
Dave
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I have a 37 Special and while the block is a 37 I suspect the head is a replacement. Does anyone know where I can find part numbers for heads? This one has the part number of 13002277.
Thanks,
Dave
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itI agree with LV Dave and dibarlaw. My 37 is Wellington Gray and I am really fond of the color, original color by the way. I have had two black cars in my lifetime and regretted it each time. Impossible to keep clean and really hot on a hot day. But thankfully we can paint our cars any color we want.
By the way my battery box looks nothing like yours, so I have a replacement that someone made up to get the job done. Interesting seeing an original!
Enjoying your posts Gary.
Regards,
Dave
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On 3/30/2017 at 1:51 AM, Gary W said:
Gary,
The plate that is cotter pinned to the brake and clutch pedals, is it attached to the master cylinder? I will have to remove the clutch and brake pedals and it looks like the brake cylinder will be involved. Worn bushings somewhere, I think on the shaft that attaches to the frame.
Best,
Dave
Gary W,
Once again fantastic photos. They are going into my archives for future reference. So any concerns using the original washers for the exhaust/intake manifolds? They appear to be flat (like my originals and rusted as well) but the size is good (as it should be considering they are original). Do you think they will allow the manifolds to move? I am concerned about manifold cracking as the original manifold and washers were in my car and the exhaust manifold was a basket case. Not something you would even consider in a running car.
Dave
1937 Buick Stromberg Carb With Vacuum Starter Switch
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Hello,
Can anyone help me out with some good fairly close up photos of an installed vacuum starter switch for Stromberg carburator? Email is opusone1945@sonic.net
Thank you,
Dave