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Everything posted by joeworf

  1. ::sigh::: A local constable determined that after two years of ownership that I should be cited for not having a front license plate (parked in front of my house). I'm sure this topic has been covered before, but what license plate frames can be affixed to the TC without screwing up the look? There are no pre-drilled holes in the bumper and I'd probably prefer factory but close counts if another brand is an option. If anyone local to the Metro DC / Northern VA area has one to sell that would be great, otherwise any suggestions are welcomed. Thanks. JOE
  2. Might as well add mine, too... 208167 1991 Exotic Red Black V6
  3. Well, good to see another entry into the fold. Can't really help you with your problem but thought I'd give ya a "welcome". I have a '91 red TC (I've had it about a month shy of two years) and I live in the Alexandria area. Maybe we'll pass on the road some day. So far I' haven't encountered another TC on the road in these parts. :-) JOE
  4. Not to threadjack this, but since we;re on the topic... Hemi, my '91 has had its radiator and thermostat replaced yet I still don't trust it. In hotter weather it is somewhat slow to warm up and as long as it is at highway speeds the coolant gauge stays under the 1/4 mark. Sitting in traffic it creeps up to about halfway and wavers a bit. If I resume highway travel the gauge drops back to the 1/4 area again.So far it hasn't gone too much past half way, but I'm not accustomed to all this up and down gauge play in a car unless something is amiss. I do hear the fan kick in and shut down periodi
  5. Can't give you more than a general reply based on your statement. In my case I had a mechanic trace through the electrical wiring in the trunk area and he found two culprits. The first was water leaking in the area of the fuel filler door (separated seal inside the fuel filler door... just put some red epoxy on it to seal it) and was pooling and shorting some wires. The main problem was wires chafing near the trunk hinge. I believe the third "chrome nerd" brake light is independent of the others as it was not working when I bought the car but the main brake lights were. Go figure? Anyway, aft
  6. Ahhhh.... I've seen that style tonneau cover before (I have a '94 Merc Capri and have been drooling over that for years). The first childhood recollection I had of that type of tonneau was on the old "Mannix" TV series whrere Joe Mannix had a customized "Mannix Roadster" (Olds Tornado convertible). Here's a video below:
  7. IIRC this was an April Fool's Day joke, n'est-ce pas? :confused:
  8. Well, the last mechanic who tried to fix it noted that one motor mount was a bit loose but not broken and didn't appear to be the source of the clunk. The task was made more difficult by the fact that he couldn't get it to replicate the sound. The previous mechanic had the benefit of hearing and feeling the clunk but failed to successfully diagnose it (hence the second opinion). Naw, I'm good with my Cargo Caravan except that I hardly use it except for the occasional hauling of stuff for friends or my own infrequent usage. It sits a lot and as I think someone here said, unused cars sort of
  9. Okay, so maybe it's not THAT bad that I'd go that route!! :-) Actually, I'm giving the Caravan (cargo) to a friend that needs it for her business and I'm passing along the Capri to a buddy who wants to tinker with it and give it to his son. The Scamp will likely be sold since it has several mods but is seldom driven. Not quite ready for the minivan club yet.
  10. Yeah, it was granted a stay of excecution (for now). It's not that I don't appreciate the TC, but combined with a host of other problem "children", it gets old having to be under constant seige with an unending plague of issues. To date I've got: A Mercury Capri with a chronic ECM issue that mimics a blown head gasket. An Isuzu VehiCROSS with bad CV boots and in need of new front brakes and a shortage of replacement parts. A Crossfire with a bad alarm module. The TC with unresolved (and yet to resurface) front end clunking. A Caravan with a waning alternator. A Plymouth Scamp with a balky sti
  11. I was in the process of writing another long-winded recap when I got a phone call from the shop. Problen solved! Finally! Seems that the wiring near the trunk hinge had chafed the wires and there was also the usual problem with the 3rd brake light board having wiring issues. He said the wire to the 3rd light board kept breaking after soldering it so he just soldered it directly and voila!... then all the lights worked. I'm not sure how the the conventional brakes were working before if the circuit was broken by the 3rd brake?? This car confuses the living daylights out of me. And for the rec
  12. Thanks Digger! Further conversation with the mechanic yields... he says he replaced the fuse several times and it blew immediately. There is water seepage in the side of the trunk under the panels and carpet. Except for a minor rodent nest in the engine bay no other signs of gnawing by varmints. He's trying to trace the short but to be honest I'm not up for a search and destroy recon of the wiring at $120 plus an hour and with no guarantees of a solution (within reason). I'll talk again with the service writer in the morning, but I may be done with this. I have other vehicles the money could
  13. Here we go again. After replacing all the bulbs and related fuse and determining that the brake switch is good, I still have no brake lights. The repair shop upon investigating it has found water seeping in near a warning harness in the trunk and possible rodent infestation as well. Before I get any deeper financially with this heap I'm wondering if I should just cut my losses and bail or plunk around $500 into determining the cause? More immediately, should I just let it dry out and see what happens or let them locate the actual cause. I hate this open ended "investiagtive" crap, especially
  14. Dunno. As I said the 3rd light was out from the "git go" but the primary lights worked fine (until some point after I had work done on the car... who knows, the mechanic may have shorted something). I checked the regular lights and turn signals immediately after a friend who was trailing me home from the shop told me my brake lights were kaput and the flashers/turn signals functioned fine. (don't know factually how long they've been out, so I can't just accuse the repair shop... but they were working in early September for sure). I suspected it might not be the fuse when I noted that the dome
  15. I know this is going to come across as a wussy question, but I figure it is better to ask first before trashing something unneccessarily. My brake lights are suddenly not working (the 3rd light has been out since i bought it but the mains were fine). I tried the easy way first and replaced the fuse even though the owner's manual is amazingly vague and doesn't stipulate that the WHOLE lower panel has to be removed and neglects to mention the three retaining screws at the base. Anyway, next stop the bulbs themselves, except that the access is through the trunk lid and some carpeting / liner. M
  16. Thank you, Jedi Master. This humble Padawan shall accept the ways of the Farce. Just got off the horn with the mechanic and he confirms that the operating temperature is steady and normal, despite what the $#@& gauge indicates. Short of ripping out the dash gauge cluster and doing detective work, I'll just learn to live with it. My paranoia stems from past bad experiences with two other cars (a Dodge and a Kia) that flipped out like this. One was a bad thermostat and the other a gauge issue. Just wasn't too eager to find out the hard way stranded on the side of the road with a blown head
  17. Phase II: Picked the car up from the shop with my new thermostat and radiator just before closing. Paid for it and took it for a spin. Same problem. No change. Temperature gauge still subject to wide swings from low to medium. Gauge goes from lower registers to mid range depending upon whether the car is in motion or not and sometimes just idling. I'm getting annoyed. What? sensors? sending unit? faulty gauge? I really hate paying for repairs that are ineffective and it has become a more frequent problem in recent years.
  18. Heh... still stuck in the predicament. Took the TC to another shop and advised them of what you said and all the previous dialogue and evaluations. They obviously found the torn boots and transaxle situation, but drew a negative on the mounts and control arm bushings. They did note that one motor mount was loose and had a worn bushing, but not broken. They said this might cause some flex and torque the transaxles somewhat on acceleration. Oddly enough I didn't notice the clunking noise after the previous shop had it up on the lift and the new repair shop couldn't replicate the "clunk" either.
  19. "You didn't mention scream, scrape or whine with trans axle noise and odds are against needing the bearing, a bad U joint will give you a clunk." All I heard was the clunking (sounded like both sides intermittently). No whining, screaming (except my nerves) or scraping. Did observe the underside and the boots were torn and fluid was visible.
  20. Thank you gentlemen for the assist. Although, what may have gotten lost in all this (and I'm not sure if it's relevant actually) is that my car is a '91 with the 3.0 Six not a turbo 4, so not sure if the part numbers apply across all models, engines and trans???? Guess, the best I can do at this point is direct the mechanic to this site or print off the thread and see if he can make sense of it all.
  21. Um... I spoke again with the mechanic and the issue we're both confused on is whether the NAPA part is the single piece substitution shaft or the two-piece original design ala factory? He was concerned over safety (and torque steer) issues as to whether the part was acceptable. He had a call into a Chrysler guru of sorts, but he never returned the message. Like I said before, one place no longer does rebuilds on the part and the other only works on commercial truck parts. Not sure on the U-joint question without getting it re-evaluated or going to another shop.
  22. Hmmm.... Okay, calling Bill Reichart!! (Didn't see any contact info for you) As Digger said, would you happen to have the part number for the shaft you got fron NAPA (I'm assuming that it was correct)? Getting a tad desperate at this point. I found one place relatively nearby that does axle rebuilds, but I think they only do large commercial vehicles. Bill, if you read this post let me know, please? JOE
  23. Well, first of all, thanks Digger for your invaluable help to this community! I called my mechanic and passed on the info about Rock Auto, but he had just checked with them and after some back and forth, realized that what they have in stock is the wrong part, too. To compound matters the shop that he was going to have rebuild the axles doesn't do those parts as part of their services. I'm beginning to think I was hoodwinked and got the ol' okey doke when they sold me the TC knowing the true difficulty entailed with this repair. Gotta ask, though... any other ideas?? Thanks.
  24. Okay, bear with me and I'll try to be as exact and concise as possible Based on a clunking noise I was getting (usually in turns) I suspected the CV joints were toast. So I took my 1991 TC to a shop and had them throw it up on a lift after a road test and they confirmed my suspicion. They ordered the parts (left and right joints, one inner and one outer). Had an appointment Saturday morning and was settling in for the 2 1/2 hour wait when I saw "discussions" going on between the mechanic and the shop manager and I knew exactly where this was headed. Wrong parts. Apparently I needed a passenger
  25. Thanks Digger! I'll start with the obvious and replace the thermostat, see if that works and then proceed to root things out from there. If I give it a little gas on subsequent hot starts it pretty much fires up right away. Took it in for it's emissions test and after they pulled it in the bay I heard them trying to crank it three times. Uh, kinda/sorta forgot to mention that to them. After I got it back (it passed, BTW) I just hopped in, goosed it and it fired straight away. I can live with it for right now, but would ultimately like to rectify the situation.
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